We replaced the bearings in the wheel hub.. we took the tire off, the hub off, and replaced the bearing inside of it.. put everything back together and now the wheel wobbles while it is on the jack.. bout an inch and a half wobble back and forth

What is your issue? My experience is mostly with Ford but, with a few exceptions, these systems are basically the same. I had a 2006 Ford Freestyle with traction control and on demand all wheel drive meaning that it was front wheel drive until the front wheels began to slip. Then the back wheels would kick in. I was warned by Ford that I had to watch my tire wear. If there was more than 2/32nd inch difference in tread depth between the tires, the traction control system would would mistake this for tire slippage and cause the all wheel drive and / or traction control to activate. This is not good on dry roads especially for the AWD transfer case. I couldn't just replace two tires. It had to be in sets of four or if my tires were 1/2 worn and one had to be replaced due to damage. The one would have to be replaced with a used one of like tread depth or all four would have to go. The real fun started when I replaced a rear axle bearing. I went to Autozone and bought a made in China special. The car had over 120 K miles on it and I'm on a fixed income so I thought I'd save a buck. UH HUH. While disassembling the rear axle bearing, I didn't know that my anti lock brake sensor was inside the housing where the bearing went. When I got the bearing out, I dropped the axle on this plastic piece. I put everything back together and took it for a test drive. At 40 MPH, my instrument cluster lit up like a slot machine, my gauges went to zero and my transmission wouldn't shift right. I replaced the sensor to no avail. I took back the bearing and exchanged it. I took it apart literally 7 times looking for metal chips interfering with the magnetic sensor for the ABS or any possible mistakes on my part. Finally, for $84.00, I took it to Ford. They put it on their computer and took it for a ride. It showed that the repaired wheel was going 5 MPH SLOWER than the other 3!!! As it turns out, the proper bearing has 8 fingers inside it that the ABS sensor counts during every revolution. If it counts these fingers faster or slower than on the other wheels, it activates the traction control / all wheel drive. If it stays activated too long, the computer looses it's mind. Ford said that these must have been missing from the cheap bearing and it was counting the bearing rollers instead. I took this bearing back and exchanged it for a MOOG brand and went on my merry way. Ford said that a guy was in there with a front wheel drive only car with similar problems. He had bought a cheap set of bearings on line but they were made of non-magnetic stainless steel and his sensors weren't seeing them at all. I know that this is long and drawn out but this is the extent of my knowledge of traction control. I hope that this helps in some way. Good luck.

Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the brake caliper, caliper anchor, rotor and ABS wheel speed sensor.
4. Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and axle hub nut.
5. Remove the hub/bearing mounting bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. Remove hub/bearing from the steering knuckle and off the axle shaft.

Installation

1. Install the hub/bearing to the knuckle.
2. Install the hub/bearing-to-knuckle bolts and tighten to specification.
3. Install the hub washer and nut. Tighten the hub nut to specification. Install the nut retainer and a new cotter pin.
4. Install the brake rotor, caliper anchor, caliper and ABS wheel speed sensor.
5. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
6. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.

Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly, thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32 (or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.

If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends around the axle nut.----

coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.



I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.

Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison

WOBBLING TIRE IS A BAD WHEEL HUB BEARING.REMOVE WHEEL CHECK HUB BEARING WHERE FRONT AXLE MESH INSIDE HUB.SHAKE HUB BEARING SEE IF IT REAL LOOSE AND WOBBLY. IF YES HUB BEARING BAD.

Lightly losen the lug nuts with the tires on the the ground. Jack up the car and remove the tire according to the owner's manual. Make sure to block the wheels. After the tire is removed, release the park brake. Support the car on jack stands. Remove four bolts from the rear of hub. The hub nut will be 29 mm - it is important that you have a tight fit if you attempt to remove the nut.

At this point you MAY have to loosen or remove the remove the emergency brake cable. Either way the hub is ready to be removed. The front of the hub (with the lugs) and the bearing will come out and the back plate and brake shoes will remain in place.

Once you get it off, you may either purchase a hub assembly (which includes the hub with a new bearing in place ready-to-go) or take the existing hub and a replacement bearing to an auto machine shop which can easily remove the old bearing and install the new bearing. Using extreme care you can remove the old one using bearing pullers and prybars and replace the bearing using large deep sockets or a properly sized piece of steel pipe.

Since you have the hub apart, you should inspect the brake shoes and (brake) wheel cylinders and replace them as needed. Replace brake parts on both sides if you replace them on either.

Put the hub back into the brake shoes. It may only line up one way. Finger tighten ALL FOUR of the bolts and then tighten. Replace the tire and remove the lifting equipment. Start slowly so the brakes can readjust!

This is a very simple job to do. Raise the front of truck off the ground,block the rear tires. Using pliers and a hammer,remove the grease cap from hub. Remove the cotter key and nut from axle,pull out slowly and remove outer bearing. then remove hub from axle. To remove inner bearing ,prop hub on a board and use a large punch to drive out bearing and seal. Clean out inside the hub and install new bearing and seal. Replace all parts in the reverse as you took them off. Hope this will help you.

Removing rotors.

1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.

The 4 Bolts that Hold the HUB in Also Hold the Backing Plate
Hub Replacement - Rear (Front Wheel Drive/Drum)

Removal Procedure

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel.
3. Remove the brake drum.
   1. Remove and DISCARD the wheel bearing/hub bolts.
   2. Remove the wheel bearing/hub.
   3. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2).Installation Procedure
   4. Connect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2).
      1. Install the wheel bearing/hub. Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
      2. Install the NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts.
      • Tighten the NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts to 80 Nm (59 lb ft) .
      1. Install the brake drum.
      2. Install the tire and wheel.
      3. Lower the vehicle.

is this front wheel? rear wheel? or 4 wheel drive? if you have front wheel drive or 4 wheel drive you will need to take the tire off and get the center cap off with cotter pin on most vehicles. then put the tire back on without its center cap. then put the vehicle back on the ground. then use required socket with an extention and breaker bar to put through the rim to loosen center hub bolt about a quarter turn. just enough to break it loose. then take the tire back off to finish the job. remove the brake caliper and rotor then center nut on hub bearing. there should be 3 bolts from the inside holding hub bearing on. on rear wheel only you won't need to take the tire off and on.