- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Put the timing mark on the balancer at 0 degrees with the piston at top dead center. (piston at the top with both valves closed). Follow the #1 spark plug wire to the dist. cap and set the dist in so the rotor lines up with the the # 1 wire. Make sure the dist. is "seated" all the way. You might have to turn the engine a little to get it to seat fully. You set the timing with a light AFTER you start the engine. If you put the dist. in in the right spot you need only turn it very little either way to start the engine.
As Saab is in relation to Subaru.....the first thing I would check is the spark plugs, ignition coil and spark plug wires. Have a technician check them for carbon tracking as if you are getting some hesitation and is inconsistant you may very well have a missfire. Minor problem but could be costly depending upon if it's got a single coil or one for each cylinder.
I'm sad to hear that you're having so much trouble with the car :(
Your problem is (almost certainly) not related to the alternator or the starter.
Your engine seems to lack fuel, air or spark, either due to a clogged hose/valve somewhere or a quirky electrical connection/relay.
Have you made sure that the fuel pump is supplying sufficient pressure when the problem is present?
Can you hear the pump when turning on the ignition?
If the pump (and its relay) seems ok you should make sure you have spark when the problem is present. If there's no spark the problem should be easily traced, probably to a intermittently faulty sensor or a faulty coil.
If both fuel and spark check out ok there is probably something wrong with the air supply when attempting a warm-start.
The things mentioned above are things you can check out yourself without high costs or special tools (you'll need a multimeter if you want to check voltages, but that's a cheap tool that might come in handy).
Oh and the car also has a check valve to keep pressure in the fuel lines. These valves can cause problems similar to yours, so you might want to check it out.
Is the knock sensor, mass air flow sensor and all other necessary sensors plugged in? Also there is a hanger bracket on the front of the engine that shares the front two bolts of the intake manifold and there's about 3-4 ground wire terminals that attach to this bracket and the wires come off of the fuel injector wiring harness. I would check these things and any other obvious electrical connections.
×