Re: My ABS and brake lights come on at low speeds; 1993...
You probably have to replace the controller (abs switch under car) which on my van (2001 windstar) was about $800.00 bucks....mine was under warrenty but not any more...when you take off the battery cable this dis-engages the power to the contoller. i could be 100% wrong...take it to your mechanic...its obviously not safe like that....
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1. I would not be concerned because if there was a failure in the ABS you would definitely get an ABS warning light and the ABS and most likely the stability control/traction control systems (with added warning lights) will all switch off .
2. You can test if the ABS is operational. On a very quiet damp surface, straight, wide road( with NO other cars around), apply your brakes hard from a very low speed - up to 20 mph ONLY driving in a straight line - until the car stops. The front brakes should attempt to lock up under hard braking and if the ABS is operational you will feel it kick in and the brake pedal will pulsate as the ABS constantly allows brake pressure and then releases it to prevent the wheels from locking up on the damp road. If the ABS does not kick in be ready to release the brake pedal quickly to allow the wheels to rotate so you can steer the car safely. Without the ABS the front wheels should begin to lock up on the damp road surface due to the low level of tire grip. ONLY test this at very low speed and ONLY when driving in a straight line on a straight section of wide road with no other vehicles around.
The warning light indicates that there is a malfuction in the anti-lock Brake System (ABS). Normally the system will then cease to function so you have a conventional braking system with no anti-lock feature to engage if you lock up the wheels on braking.
This ABS fault warning has nothing to do with the condition of the pads and rotors so renewing them, which is essential for good braking performance, will not solve the problem.
You will need to take the vehicle to a mechanic with the correct equipment to diagnose the cause of the ABS warning. It may be as simple as a failed ABS sensor (or sensors) and that is what I would be checking first.
It is quite safe to drive the vehicle with the ABS disengaged because your brakes will operate normally. What you don't have is the ABS kicking in to release the brake pressure temporarily in the event you brake hard and lock up any of the wheels.
I think it means the Antilock Brake System is disengaged. So, a code has been stored in the abs computer. Standard obd tester cannot check these codes, must visit your dealer or some autoshop with ABS reader.
According with the service manual: During starting the RED brake light should briefly come on and then go
off. If the RED light stays on, it indicates a problem in the main
braking system, such as a low fluid level, or the parking brake is still
When the ABS light is on the ABS system is deactivated. Meaning, when the abs is light is on and you brake, the tires will lock up with heavy braking.
Escapes have a common issue of the ABS excitor rings cracking causing ABS problems. Sometimes it activates on almost every brake application. It may set a code in the ABS computer for an intermitten wheel speed sensor or no wheel speed signal. Check all the "rings" on the outside of all four axleshafts. If none of the rings are cracked it is likely a bad ABS wheel speed sensor.
There is a problem in the Antilock brake system and it has shut the ABS down. You will still have normal brakes just no ABS.
The 4WABS is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, the ABS module carries out a preliminary self-check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a 3-second illumination of the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
If the vehicle is over 10,000 GVW, the warning indicator may remain on until the vehicle is driven at a speed above 15 mph for 10 seconds. Bringing the vehicle up to this speed enables a system self-check that turns the indicator off if no fault conditions are present.
A self-test of the solenoid valve coils and the pump motor is carried out when the vehicle is started. During starting, the brake pedal must be released to run the self-test. If the brake pedal is applied or a failed brake switch occurs, the self-test is run at 4 mph regardless of brake pedal position.
The system has 3 speed sensors,one on each front wheel and one in the rear end housing. The one in the rear end housing usually causes the problem.If any metal savings from the rear end gets on the end of it, this will cause this.
Best way to tell though is to have someone with a scan tool that will communicate with the ABS system pull the trouble codes.
When u power up the vehicle ABS does a self test(light stays on a few seconds then cuts off) and if it see's a problem will shut off and illuminate the ABS lamp. It will also do a second test on iself when you reach a speed of around 12-15 mph,it will run the pump for a few seconds to check pressure and look at the speed sensors,if it see a problem here it will again shut down and illuminate the ABS light.
Now if the red brake lamp is on then it will shut down because it thinks you have a hydraulic concern and will not try and run ABS if this is the case.
If red brake lamp is on most likely if you have good brakes it is a problem with the float sensor in the master cylinder reservior,maybe its bad or just stuck,or just low on fluid.
i have 2006 f250 4x4 will not engage unless i lock in hubs. once hubs locked in i can engage 4x4 by using electronic selector. why will it not engage when hubs are in auto and electronic selector is on 4high