Question about 2005 Volvo S40

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One front wheel is grabbing when brakes are applied. There does not appear to be abnormal wear. There has been no previous brake work done. 2005 volvo S40 with 95,000 miles. Thanks for any input. marcyGA

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Have your run out checked on your brake rotors,for they may be warped.and need turned or replaced.

Posted on Jun 24, 2009


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Brake pad wear uneven

Hi, it looks like you have to get your steering tracking checked and also the brake cylinder on the nearside sounds as if its seized or not working properly.

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Rear wheel clunking noise and squeeling noise sometimes

This sounds like it could either be brakes or a wheel bearing going bad. You can check this by removing the rear wheel and inspecting the brakes making sure the caliper is mounted on tightly and brake rotor isn't showing uneven wear. Also be sure to check the brake pads to make sure that they are not worn down to the squealer tabs. Most new pads are roughly 3/8" -1/2"thick. and will start squealing if at about 1/8"-1/16" thick. If everything checks out fine then check the wheel bearing by simply jacking the wheel up off the ground and grabbing. Now try to move it side to side or up and down, it should have no play what so ever. And spin the wheel to listen for screeching or squealing, it should rotate smoothly with no abnormal noises.

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Metal on metal noise when driving. Sounds like brake noise when brake pads are in need of replacement. Sound goes away when the brake is applied. Car only has 20,000 miles on it (2006).

Hello tgiro7: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. The fact the noise goes away when stepping on the brake pedal says the problem most likely is in the brake area. The pads could be worn out even at 20,000 miles.If the noise sounds like it comes from the front remove the wheels and check the front pads. If the pads are bad most likely the rotors are also bad.Same would apply if the noise emits from the rear. When you have the wheels off check to make sure the calipers will slide in and out on the mount pins. Should they be stuck on binding the pads will wear excessively and prematurely fail. The calipers must move freely on the pins. If you drive with your left foot on the brake pedal? The amount of pressure required to apply the brakes and not stop the vehicle is 1 to 2 pounds of pressure. Wont turn on the brake lights but will put pressure on the calipers. This in turn will wear out the brake pads. Another thing to look at would be an out of adjustment brake switch. Reach down and grab hold of the brake pedal. Give a firm tug on the pedal. Should you feel the pedal give and hear a click or two the switch was set to deep and holding the brakes on.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

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When applying brakes - I get a wheel wobble, o.k. when driving normally no wheel wobble. had realignment done about 4 months ago. also when driving on rough or uneven road surface seems like my shock...

it could be the shocks but due to wheel wobble i would say its more to do with worn bushings on the suspension arms etc.... best way to check is to jack up each front corner of the car at a time and shake the wheel see if it has movement side to side or front to rear if so i would reccomend getting it looked at or replacing the bushings :) hoep this helps

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2007 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD - Rear Brakes are wearing faster than front brakes

Generally speaking, the front brakes do most of the work of stopping--typically between 70-90%. The potential reasons for your truck's rear brakes wearing abnormally quickly include:

--the adjuster(s) on your rear drum brakes were adjusted too tight. (I'm pretty sure you have drum brakes in the rear.)

--You are doing a lot of heavy towing or hauling which is transferring more of the weight to the rear brakes. You'd have to be doing this often, though, and frequently meeting or exceeding the capacity of your vehicle to tow or haul.

--The proportioning valve, the master cylinder or a brake line somewhere is damaged, causing more hydraulic pressure than is correct to be applied to the rear brakes.

-- Your parking brake cable is kinked or damaged, causing the rear brakes to constantly rub. You'd likely smell burning brakes and notice heat from the wheels.

-- Your rear drum brakes are clogged up with brake dust and the springs cannot properly retract the brake shoes, resulting in constant rubbing.

Most likely one of these issues is your problem if you have premature rear brake wear.

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Most likely the brake pads are bad and the drums need to be turned the magnets are not able to lock the shoes in place. You may want to adjust the brake shoes firs, if the shoes have worn down then it will not brake without an adjustment. Jack up one side at a time and turn the Star up in the slot on the back of the brake plate adjust till you feel the wheel start slightly grabbing back off one click then do other side, see if they work by pulling the trailer and using the electric brake only see if it slows down your truck when you apply the manual brake bar on front of the electric brake. Does it slow you down? Yes? then you got it fixed if no then you will have to remove the drums and see if the surface is uneven where the magnets go. hope this helps let me know if you need more information.

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It is very common for front calipers to drag on this generation Caravan.

Check for abnormal amounts of heat at the front wheel after some light duty braking.
The caliper should be taken off and inspected for rust/corrosion and checked for free piston travel.

This is obviously a very important safety device you are dealing with, and would recommend having a professional inspect it for safety reasons.

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