Hi , umm ummm, i have a 94 protege and i cant get EITHER axel out UH broke 3 pry bars on the pass side now the seal leaks and i put these axels in auto zone remans 8 yrs but only 45ooo miles ago got to be a sercet to "mazda protege " axel removal
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Re: 94 protege axels will not come out!!
You are going to have to jiggle and pry they also make a axel tool to hammer in but the ring on tip gets caught and it is a pain.try twisting and pry from more than one direction if you can like lift from bottom pry from top or side. good luck you will get them.
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Jack the vehicle up at proper jack points and lower onto jack stand or stands.remove drivers side wheel. Use needle node pliers and a screwdriver to remove the cotter pin in the axel nut and determine the size of the axel nut. It will most likely be metric 28mm to 36mm. Use an impact to remove the axel nut. Now you will need to remove one or both of the ball joints. Start with the bottom one first and hold the axel in place and pull out on the hub. After you have the hub off of the axel note the splines and how the line up. Now turn the hub so that it is out of the way. You may be able to just yank the axel out of the transmission. If it didn't come out easily you will need a crow bar to gently pry the axel out of the case. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the transmission case. It's aluminum and it will crack and break if you beat on it. Just pry gently and with the transmission in neutral ( be sure to chalk the rear wheels so the car won't run you over) slowly rotate the axel and pry until it comes out. If that doesn't work you will need to rent a slide hammer. Thread it to the free end of the axel and forcefully slide the weight out to knock the axel about of the trans. Installation is reverse. DO NOT USE A HAMMER to force the axel back in you will mushroom the threads and never get the nut on.
Daewoo is'nt using any left hand threads on cars for sale in the USA. The front axel nut's are sussosed to be very tight, ( 250 Ft- Lbs ) I use a 3/4 in inpac air gun that has 1000 ft-lbs take off toque with the wheel still on the ground and the parking brake on with the wheels choclked. You can still get them off with a 1/2 breaker bar the correct socket and a pipe ( that fits over the handle of the breaker bar) and a sheadge hammer. On the drivers side of the car with the breaker bar parrleell to the floor and sticking out the front, put the pipe over the handle and pust down on the end and wack it hard where the handle is inside the pipe. once it turns it'll turn easy, so watch out! The axel will be stuck in the hub and may be very hard to get out. I use an high powered air chiscil with a pointed bit in the very end of the axel with only the axel nut removed with the wheigh of the car still on the ground, it'll push in about an inch with it all put together. Hopefully after it's moved some it'll be able to be pulled out. Remove the wheel and tire assembly and unbolt the lower ball joint. with it separted from the lower control arm the steering knuckle can be pulled away from the car and the axle pulled out of the knuckle while staying in the transmission. The ball joint part of the job needs to be done with both sides of the car jacked off the ground and supported well with jack satands. I ussally do both sides of the car for axels unless one has already been changed or money for the other axel is'nt available. If your just doing the job for yourself and you don't normally do car repair work, The cost of the tools that you only use to change the axel cost alot more than what you should pay to have the axels changed. I charge $100 to change both axels and $75 to change just one. I buy the rebuilt axels at my local auto parts store for $46 or new ones for $75 sometimes the new ones are cheaper in time as you just buy them straight out and theres no core charge and you just but them go home and put them on and go about you bussness.. It's easy to get hurt putting in axels as the car can fall on you. ( not useing good jack stands and a good hard level hard surface to work on. A good floor jack. a ball joint separterater. the correct axel scoket. The impac scocket and the powerful enough air gun to remove the nut, acess to compressed air to run the air tools. Really a lift to raise the car and hold it good enough that it does'nt fall and kill you. a large pry bar to pry the axel out of the transmission and a large hammer to beat the new axel into the transmission and the brawn and strengh to do all this heavy work.
Okay after you get the outter part of axel free with rotor off and everything ,,,you have to get a small pry bar or flat screw driver what ever works and pry the small hub right after the boot there should be a small space where you can fit the pry bar between the hub on axel and trans houseing and pry it out Im doing a hyundai right now and looking for that just right space to do the same thing,,also when inserting the new axel it will push right in and you will hear the click when in all the way, if you cant get it send me a pic of the axel inserted into trans,,,,,,,,email@example.com Ill help you get it out.
There is a "C" clip that holds it in there. Put your pry bar on the fat part of the halfshaft (axle) and give it a few smacks with a hammer. These jolts should knock it loose to be able to remove it. If you cant get room to hit it with a hammer you will have to use a pry bar and just keep working at it on both sides.
I guess you'd like to remove the CV axel to change it? The axels acan be bought rebuilt or new for almost the same price. Auto prts ctores should have them in stock or get them in one day. Less than 50 for rebuilt and about 70 or less for new. They come with purchaser lifetime warrentee. bothe rebuilt and new the rebuilt one you need to take the core back as it might cost 60 or more or bring the old one with you. With the car jacked up and the wheels removed from the frount remove the cotter pin and the keeper from the front axel retaining nut and remove the nut it's a big one 1 3/16 inch and turn it off with your 1/2 inch air impac gun that'll hit at leasest 450 LBs/ Touque. If you don't have this tool take the car to someone that does. Remove the two bolts that hold the lower ball joint tot he lower control arm 17MM headed the same 1/2 air impac takes them out too. With a long iron bar pry the lower control arm down, you may have to smack it with a hammer to get it loose, pull the steering knuckle ( the break and rotor assembly) out and back and pust the axel out of the hub as you pull the steering knuckle back take care as to not pull the break hose too far but it's long enough to get the axel out. by pass the pused aside steering knuckel and pull the axel out of the trans. You might have to pry it out..The passenger side takes a little more doing as it has a carrier bearing bolted to the back of the block of the engine that has to be removed and a bracket that's bolted to it as well. with the carrierbearing free of the engine this axel with the steering knuckle pulled aside pulls right out no prying.
Remove the wheel cover and loosen the drive axel hub nut. loosen the the wheel lug nuts raise the vehicle and support it well. NOTE: you will have to be working under the car be very careful. remove the drive axel hub nut. To prevent the hub from turning, insert a screwdriver thru the brake caliper and into one of the cooling slots on the rotor. remove the control arm-to-steering knuckle. Check for the ABS sensor and remove it out of your way. Separate the drive axel from the hub. If stuck remove the brake caliper and rotor. Push the axel out of the hub with a puller or you can use a good solid broom handle and drive it out. If you are removing the right side axel you will need a slide hammer and adaptor to separate the axel from the trans. If you are removing the left side, carefully pry the axel out of the trans. with a large pry-bar positioned between the inner CV joint and the trans. case. Use the subframe as a pivot point. Hold the CV joints so they do not separate inside the rubber if going to reuse them. Lubricate the new seal with multi-purpose grease before you install it.
hi yes you can pry it out, or if you can get a wedge of some sort tap it behind the gap on the shaft it will pop out, but be prepared with a bucket to catch the gear oil in as this will just flood out, better still drain it first before removing the shaft, this will save allot of clearing up afterwards...hope this helps
Remove the wheel and the lower ball joint from the spindle. It will also make it easier if you remove the tie rod end. There is a large hut at the tire end of the axel. Remove that nut and washer. Take a rubber or brass Hammer and hit the end of the axel to push it through the bearing assembly. If it is really stuck, put the nut back on so that the nut is even with the end of the axel and uses a heavier hamer to break it loose. Once you break it loose, pull back on the rotor while pushing the axel to remove it from the hole it passes through. (Becarefull with the brake hose. If it is pulling too tight it might be best to remove the caliper and use a hanger to suspend it until you are done.) You will need a really BIG screw driver or a pry bar. Put the pry bar between the case and the hub of the axel and push in quickly and firmly to pop it out of the trans axel. It might take a few tries. If it resists look for a ridge and put a big screw drive on the ridge and use a hammer to pop it out.
Once it is out, reverse directions. Do not use the hammer on the new axel any where.put the end into the trans axel as far as it will go and then put the other end through the wheel bearing. Use the leverage you have with the rotor and bearing side to push the axel into the trans. You should hear it snap into place. Before you put the ball joint back on go to the trans axel side and use that pry bar and gently try to remove. if it resists it is seated, if it slides out, you need to seat it again. ONce you are sure it is firmly seated back into the trans, you can bump the ball joint and tie rod back together.