Question about 1996 Toyota T100
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I work for Toyota, and I will be glad to provide you with the actual answer:
The RAV/4 product is available in two models, a 4WD model and a 2WD model.
The difference between the two is on the 2WD model, there is no driveshaft going under the vehicle to the rear wheels, and no rear differential. There is no "RAV/2"; both models are called RAV/4's.
There is a lot of common confusuion about how the 4WD works. It is full time 4WD. In other words, it is always in 4WD. It does not "kick in/kick out/automatically engage", or anything like that. It is 4WD all of the time. But, when I say "4WD", that is sometimes mistaken for "all wheel drive", and, in this case, the RAV/4 is not "AWD". What this means is that if you raise the RAV/4 up on a lift, and put it in gear, 1 rear and the other side front tires will spin. True "all wheel drive" would have ALL 4 wheels spinning. This is not the case with the Rav/4. What the RAV does have, making up for not having "True AWD" on the 5 speed model, however, is a switch that locks the center differential in the transfer case, which, when engaged, applies a method of "locking" the 4WD system for maximum traction, but it is still not AWD. The automatic version doe not have this ability.
The last "true AWD" vehicle for purchase was a 1970's International Scout.
If you are considering purchasing a RAV/4, that is a very good investement. They hold their value quite well, and are virtually bulletproof; I do not make any "money" off my RAV/4 customers...
Just "gas station work". Very nice cars. I hope that this helps you, please feel free to comment back with any otherr questions...Glad to be of assistance.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I can get you a diagram on monday but it goes from the alternator to the power steering pump then around the tensioner pulley then around the crank pulley then to the a/c compressor then pull on the tensioner to give you some slack and slip it on the waterpump.I hope that helps.Let me know if you still need the diagram
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
Turn vehicle on, with foot on brake put vehicle in NEUTRAL. Still holding brakes move 4x4 switch to 4 wheel drive, it should engage. The ECT snow is just s feather that make the transmission take off in 2nd gear so its not a fast take off and you wouldn't skid. Good Luck
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
Diagram is unnecessry.
Pull both front wheels
Work one at a time leaving the other for reference
Find the retention spring ... its a paperclip thickness wire spring... dislodge center retention loop and undo from both ends which engage brake pad retention rods.
Pull the rods out
Pull the old pads out... laying everything on the ground
Use scrap wooden wedges to pry between the rotor and the caliper ...inside and out until the calipers are fully withdrawn. Use the new pads to measure if they are far enough back.
Note... the brake fluid will have dropped in the master cylinder over many months of wear... do not fill it. When the calipers are pushed back they will fill the reservoir again... one wheel at a time.
Be sure to identify the correct pad based on what you took out and what is on the other side (if you screwed up the layout)
Make sure to take the old antisqueek backing plate from the old pad and place it on the new pad. They don't use lubricant on these anymore.
Replace the pads... the retention rods... then the retention spring
Do the other side
Then progressively step on the brake peddle until full tension is felt
Check the master cylinder reservoir... probably needs no additional fluid.
New pads will register in existing ridges in each disc in no time at all.
You should check the discs to see if they need to be replaced during this operation...using some calipers
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
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