Question about 1989 Ford Ranger
Having trouble removing ring gear from the carrier frame (aka differential case)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I think if you put a pry bar behind the knuckle and give it a quick bump it will just pop out it has a ring on the inside that holds it in. Just uses pressure to keep it in place I will look in a few but I am sure that is what to do.
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
The differential will have a plug in the driver's side of the housing that is removed with a 3/8" drive ratchet or square drive. Be sure you know what type of fluid is recommended for your vehicle. It will depend on whether it is a locking differential or standard.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
Remove u-washers and pull axle shafts out of the rear axle housing.
Posted on Mar 26, 2010
Removal and Installation
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
Testimonial: "thanks mate!"
SOURCE: How do remove the rear
The cover gasket is silicone and is not designed to be serviced without removing the differential assembly.You will need to remove axles , driveshaft , and maybe the spare tire to get differential out.
Posted on Mar 03, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
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Disassembly Make sure that you have all the parts and tools you will need. The extent of disassembly depends on the job being done and the inspection findings. Lift the vehicle using an appropriate lift or a jack and safe jack stands. Always make certain that the vehicle is safely supported before working underneath. Unbolt the driveshaft from the yoke. Remove the differential cover or unbolt the third member. Let the oil drain into a suitable container. Please recycle your waste oil. Remove c-clip axles by removing the differential cross pin bolt and cross pin shaft, pushing the axles in and pulling the c-clips. Full float axles are unbolted at the hubs. Punch both carrier caps with identification marks so that you will be able to re-install them on the same side and in the same direction. Most carriers can be pried out of the housing with a pry bar. Further disassembly depends on the job being done. If you're changing the ring and pinion or the pinion bearings, remove the pinion nut with an air gun while holding the yoke, or use a long breaker bar and brace the yoke (bolt it to a long board) so that it can't move. Knock the pinion gear out to the rear with a brass punch, taking care not to damage the threads. Keep track of the location and thickness of all of the original shims. Pinion bearings must be pressed off. Carrier bearings can be pulled using a bearing puller. Internal parts (inside the carrier) can be removed as necessary.
Inspect all bearings and races for
pitting or uneven wear. The inner carrier bearing races
should not spin on the carrier journals. The carrier
races should have a snug fit in the housing. Inspect the
carrier race bores for grooves from spinning races. The
side gear bores inside the carrier should not have any
abnormal wear. All gear teeth (including the spider
gears) should be smooth but not excessively shiny.
Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, chips, breaks, and
for signs of uneven wear and overheating. Inspect
positraction clutches for scoring and wear. Inspect the
axles for pitted, grooved, or dull and rough bearing
surfaces. Check for worn axle splines. All questionable
parts should be replace
The four essential differential adjustments are pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash and carrier bearing preload. The tables at the back can be used to write down shim combinations and results.
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