Question about 2007 Ford Edge SEL Plus
How many labor hours is required to replace booster and master cylinder on 2007 Ford Edge SEL Plus
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER IS IN THE TRANSMISSION GOING TO PRESSURE PLATE AND CLUTCH.YOU HAVE TO DROP TRANSMISSION TO GET TO SLAVE CYLINDER.IF CLUTCH IS LOOSE MAKE SURE BOLTS TO CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE TO CLUTCH IS TIGHT.THAT COULD BE YOUR PROBLEM.
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
it sound like a ABS-sensor is sticking are its bad give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your car wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
SOURCE: 95 ford f250 powerstroke brake
You must inspect ALL Brake lines, flexible and steel, and each corner brake. Look for fluid leaks. If everything below is okay, replace the M/C. I suspect damaged cup or bore. do not rebuild, get a new one. Unlikely too much vacuum.
Posted on Sep 06, 2010
First off, if you're attempting this, I'm assuming you're someone mechanically inclined or at least somewhat of a grease monkey -
NO NEED for me to tell you how to change the first THREE spark plugs that stare at you when you pop-up your hood - These should be child play for you... if not, take your car to a shop and stop reading... (no offense)...
The back ones are the fun ones to get to!
Keep in mind you will need to move a lot of the wire harnesses around - you may have to cut a few tie-down clips or zip-ties to help you out.
1 - Remove the Air Box - Remove Air Filter - No need to dismantle the whole Unit into pieces... Loosen up the clip clamp at the Throttle Body and pull out the whole Unit -
** Disconnect the Sensors, Disconnect the Front Rubber Hose and the little valve underneath **
2 - Loosen and remove the screws that hold down the manifold (6 total I think in the front) - There is a super long one all by itself in the middle - the others are at the edges
** Also, take your time to detach the Wire Harness/Hoses strapped to the Manifold (in the front) you can do this by removing the black electrical tape and replacing later when you're done ...
3 - There is one screw under the Throttle Body - remove it - it's kinda' hidden but you'll see it.
4 - There is another one on top of the manifold towards the back - it's hidden under the hood cowl
** Look on top of your engine towards the back - Locate two rubber hoses attached to the manifold - FYI - You will be working in a very TIGHT spot, but be patient and make sure you don't give up! **
5 - Loosen/Detach Rubber Hose on the Left (Pass Side) attached to the Manifold (PCV Valve?) - Make sure you don't drop it - it connects the manifold to the Engine - it's a small "L-shaped" hose
** There is a tiny connector right below that valve, you cannot see it but you can feel it, it's easy to remove, just unplug it - AGAIN, it's a tight spot, but not impossible to work with. **
6 - Loosen/Detach another Rubber Hose on the Right (Driver Side) and your manifold is ready to come off - Move it around, and pull it out... careful with the wire harnesses around and the other hoses that are sitting on top of the engine.
Make sure you Disconnect the Mass Air Flow Sensor and Air Temperature Sensors!!!
Once you pull out the Manifold - it is easy as cakes to replace your three other Spark Plugs -
Follow the steps backwards and VOILA! - It is a LOT easier to do then all this jargon I've written
Posted on Jan 30, 2011
Doubt it failed----did you test it with a volt meter,put
an oscilloscope on it,or look at scan tool data
Have a couple T20 Torx Screws that hold it on
You heat them with a hair dryer to soften the
Blue Thread Locker
Why not tell us the vehicles problems & what you tested so far
Posted on Aug 31, 2012
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