Question about 2007 Volkswagen Passat Sedan
How to remove the glove box to replace the air recirculation motor
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
a very common fault is the switch,the calipers are not much better,they will be able to sort it for you but they are bad news for a modern car !!
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
the air bag light will only show if the ignition was turned on while it was disconnected.
it will defo need to be pluged into the computer to be put out but some smaller garages will have the software to do this and will be a little cheaper.here in ireland VW wanted 50euro to do mine but a small garage done it for 30euro.
you can buy code finders/reset gadgets on ebay but might not be worth it for one job compared to $130.
my suggestion would be to get the main dealer to do it if a normal automotive shop cannot access it.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
SOURCE: 1997 VW Passat trouble code
Both my 97 Passat and my wife's 99 Passat were throwing the same OBD codes you listed.
Both VW's had the same problem. There is no "quick" solution for the problem. I can tell you what I found, what I had to do and how I repaired both vehicles so they no longer throw this OBD error code.
I removed the black plastivc AIR pump and found that three of the six aluminum rivets which hold the AIR pump impeller housing together had rotted off so the case was leaking air. I went to a hardware store with one of the aluminum rivets I had removed from the AIR pump and bought six brass machine screws and brass nuts. I gouged the aluminum rivets out and replaced them with the brass machine screws.
After I had replaced the AIR pump in the VW, I cleared the codes and ran the diagnostics again.
It still threw the same codes!!!
Next, I removed the plastic top engine cover from the VW engine (VR6) and located the many air solenoids hidden under the cover. I went to a local NAPA shop and purchased an eight foot length of their smallest gauge neoprene gas line (1/8 inch ID).
I carefully removed each piece of rotted VW vacuum line from the air solenoids and replaced each rotted section with lengths of the new neoprene gas line. I had to follow out each of the old vacuum lines and replace them because they were badly deteriorated. This took about five hours to accomplish.
I replaced the plastic engine cover and connected up my cable from my laptop to the VW's computer port, cleared all of the codes and ran a new scan. This time the scan was clear! Woo Hoo! Apparently, the problem was both the leaking AIR pump and faulty, deteriorated (cheap) Volkswagen vacuum lines.
It was well worth the effort. My driveway has now become a bonafied VW repair shoppe.
Posted on May 16, 2009
chances are if you system was serviced by modern equipment then they would have pulled a vacuum before recharging .. that would eliminate moisture in the system .. the evaporator is inside your heater box .. you cant see it .. the condenser is the radiator like device in front of your engine cooling radiator ..
if the system is changed properly and still does not work or works intermittantly . then there is a good chance that the air conditioner clutch electronic module is bad .. thats a relay like device located on the drivers side behind the dash .. you have to snap off the dash side panel .. its normally hidden by the door .. inside that is the fuse panel and behind that is the relays/electronic modules .. the one that operates the air conditioner clutch is marked 384 .. there are other possibilities depending on your a more precise description of the problem ..
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
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