Question about Geo Tracker
I need to remove the transmission pan from my 1994 geo tracker LSI automatic transmission 4x4, so I can change the transmission filter. did research on line and every thing looked straight forward: loosen the bolts holding the transmission pan, drain fluid, drop the pan, replace the filter and gasket, then bolt the pan back up and replace the fluid. Here is my problem..... I got the pan unbolted, and found that the front drive shaft which runs under the pan is in the way and won't allow me to drop the pan enough to get the pan between the tranny and drive shaft. looks lie I have to get the drive shaft out of the way. any suggestions?
Ok ,it's not hard, but if you let the front yoke fall out, you get 2 eat
3 quarts of Transfer case oil. in the face. (the forget to warn of that)
the yoke is splined and will fall right out, if not careful.
undo the 4 ujoint nutbolts. (1 easy step)
or read the FSM see PDF page 26 (actual 24) the 3 steps.
under new 4sp filter.
or more here
see the 4 holes here?
unbolt it and carefully tie it UP (prop shaft), and with a hard rear bias.
Id use bunji cords.
Posted on May 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
that is the filler tube for the tranny
just pull it straight out when your done put your pan back on then push it down in there and make sure it is seated all the way
good luck ray
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
SOURCE: Transmission fluid flushing
In normal situations people do not flush their trannys. Your would normally just lower the pand and change the filter and replace the fluid that came out. If you are not having a problem with your tranny this is what I would suggest. As the fluid gets older the tranny gets "used to" the old oil that is in there. When you add new fluids the new fluid contains detergents that clean the internal parts as they circulate. Unless this is the first time you've been to the recommended mileage for changing the fluid (I.E. 30,000 miles) you could flush it. If you do not know the history of changes, or if you are at, lets say 100,000 miles I wouldn't recommend flushing it. When the new detergents clean out the parts they remove gunk that is actually helping the transmission. Don't get me wrong, you don't want a whole lot of gunk, but you also don't want to remove gunk that for example is holding a pin in place, so the pin falls out (just an example) I hope this wasn't too hard to understand, and I hope I answered your question.
Posted on May 18, 2009
pan bolt torque is in inch pounds (not a lot, around 10-15) generally
it's not necessary for exact because pans are a bit warped many times
and exact dosen't work anyhow. Tighten snugly without leaning into the
wrench, then check running and tighten anywhere that is seeping.
if it's dry after a week of running it's fine.It's important not to crush the gasket. If you have one with a two piece dipstick tube sometimes if the vent is a bit blocked the fluid can get out at the connection between the two halves. I don't know if anything is available to join them together better but I use a piece of hose over them to keep water out off-road. Make sure the vent is clear. If it's leaking, the only way to find the leak is to look carefully at everything, clean off areas where there is too much gunk to see well. pretty much the only place at the front that there is a seal is in the pump and around the pump. it would leak down inside the bellhousing and drip out onto the front of the pan rail after being blown back while driving. Both seals are not accessible unless the unit is removed.
Posted on May 24, 2009
Sounds like you got it. They are heavy and ocward (spelling?). As for the front drive shaft take the bolts out and give it a couple of wacks with a dead blow hammer then slide it out. Maybe a few days before hand give it a good spray down with wd40 or like product. Also when you get to the last bolt for the t-case to trans loosen it half way then put a drain bucket under it and seperate it a little and let the trans fluid drain some, or you will be wearing it.
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
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