Question about 2008 Saab 9-5
I am trying to get to alternator and idler pulley bracket allen head bolt is rounded wont loose alt. have to remove front axle to heat or cut bracket with torch
TO loosen of the idler pulley it is essential that the pulley nut first be loosed off to allow the shaft to be moved . The allen head screw unless it is seized up(rusted) will move freely once the pulley nut is loosened. Before you go to extremes consider other alternatives .--removing the pulley off the shaft ( cut the belt to achieve this) see if there is room to attach vice grips in the head of the screw . If you have space ,drive an allen key slightly larger into the hole. (SAE instead of metric). The absolute thing I would use is a torch in that area as you could wind up burning harness wires or setting fire to the vehicle. If the screw head is in an awkward spot remember that longer bars /extensions may make the job easier.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You need air tools, many differnet size sockets and a press. The strut/spindle and lower control arm have to come out all together. leaving the axle in the car.The spinlde cannot be removed from the strut. once removed, you can then unbolt the lower control arm ball joint nut, and seperate the lower control from the spindle - for ease for the press. press the hub out, remove the snap rings on either side and press the old bearing out. press in new bearing , install snap rings, press the hub in and reinstall. I just did one today... I have 15 years experience as a ford tech - Ugh bro.. - Josh
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
remove air filter box completely. loosen o/s/f wheel. jack up the car, and secure. remove wheel. remove plastic shield to expose the cranckshaft pulley.check routing of the belt for replacement. on top of the tensioner there is a square, about 1/2 inch, place a bar in the square and gently push the bar towards the front of the car to release the tension, and remove the belt. change any defective pulleys. refit the belt leaving the top pulley till last.take up the tension of the tensioner, and then fit the remaining belt. make sure the belt is sitting right in it's grooves, and crank the engine first to make sure it is fitted ok. refit air box, plastic shield and wheel.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
You do not have to remove the wheel unless you have th 6 cylinder engine (2.3l). Then yes you do:
Disconnect Negative Battery Cable
Remove the air cleaner and hose from between the air breather/cleaner and throttle housing
Relax the belt tensioner off the belt and pry off the belt
Remove the right front wheel, black belt cover/protector, and the wheel hub nut and slide the hub off the drive shaft/outer Cv joint
Disconnect the alternator, remove the alternator/air intake hose, 2 bolts that hold the alternator in and remove it through right-hand wheel housing.
Yes, this is immensely annoying. I hope you figured it out...
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
SOURCE: I need to replace the
i done one of these earlier in the year and my old age means i cannot remember properly ,i done a water pump as well which meant removing the radiator and the AC rad ,and to get all this off i had to remove the front bumper as well so the radiator came out ,i took the belt tensioner off as well for something but it wasnt difficult as i remember ,that was it i think ,i had to drop the timing belt to get the water pump out if i can remember it correctly ,the problem is i do so may vehicles that i work from basic mechanics and the moto here is if its in the way remove it to gain access .iam sorry but iam sitting here racking my brains trying to remember how i took that tensioner off and for the life of me i cannot remember what i did or how i done it so it had to be simple for me not to remember ,funny because the owner of the car was here today with a friend dropping another vehicle off for repair .Sorry but i think you will have to ask again and maybe it will be fresher in someone elses memory .
Posted on Nov 22, 2010
I recently had the alternator fail on my 1998 Saab 900s Turbo 2.0 and realize that it's removal and replacement is not the most straightforward process.
While there are quite a few places to look for assistance in removing the alternator, many of them point to the 93 or early 900's.
I won't go into great detail of the removal of every single bolt, but will try and give a decent step by step of the entire process. I should note that most of the resources you find online are correct up until actually taking the alternator out of the vehicle. That's not to say the rest is easy, but getting the thing out of the engine bay is a chore. Many books and online resources give misinformation as to this process and it took me some time to realize that.
Here is a rough step-by-step:
Remove the air box/cleaner
Pry back the tensioner and remove the belt (inspect and/or replace)
Remove the tensioner altogether (some resources say this isn't necessary, do yourself a favor and just take it out, it's difficult but worth it and you can check the pulley, mine was bad.)
Remove the right, front wheel.
Remove the lower bolt that mounts the alternator. (Should be 5/16 or 7/16 hex, recessed)
Remove the upper bolt for the alternator mount. (This is very tough to get at but be patient)
The alternator will likely be stuck in it's mounts. Give each one a shot of lubricant.
While letting the lube set a bit, you can get under the vehicle (make sure it's supported properly) and remove the two cables from the back of the alternator. They can be seen just above the catalytic converter towards the passenger side of the vehicle. A universal socket helps a lot with these two. (you can also un-mount the alternator and spin it around to remove the wires, either method is of equal difficulty)
You'll now need to pry the alternator from it's mounts. It takes a fair bit of force but DO NOT hit your alternator with a pin/hammer. I ended up using a small tire iron and working it out by prying against the engine block. It will come.
Now that your alternator is removed from it's mounts you have the glorious task of trying to get it out of the vehicle. Some books and online resources will simply say to pull it through the hole in the fender well. After trying every which way you'll realize this simply isn't going to happen, curse, and start hunting online for a solution.
The solution is not to remove an axle or stabilizer.
The easiest way is to take the alternator out from underneath the vehicle. The easiest way to do that is to move the exhaust out of your way. This is not nearly as difficult as it sounds.
There are three bolts which hold your turbo header on to the back of the turbo itself. Remove these three bolts. The two top ones are pretty simple, the bottom one is a bit of a pain. All are 1/2" or 13mm.
Once removed you'll have a little play with the exhaust but you'll also need to remove the two front rubber hangers. This actually took quite a bit of effort and force but once you get them off you're almost home.
This next bit is important. Do yourself a favor and remove the front-most Oxygen sensor. The last thing you want to do is break the sensors or the wires. There is a second sensor right behind the catalytic converter, you can remove this but it's not necessary, just make sure it's wire is out of the way and you have plenty of slack for the next step.
Now you should have plenty of play in the front of your exhaust system. Gently pull the exhaust down (be sure the turbo header is pulled out of the mounting bolts) and hold it away from the passenger side of the vehicle.
There is a gap where you removed one of the exhaust hangers that the alternator can fit through. Be very patient, you'll need to try a few different angles but it WILL drop.
Repair or replace the alternator and do this process in reverse. Getting the alternator back in it's mounts is a chore, but she'll go. I had to use a 2x4 to pry it into place.
I did this job in 15 degree weather, outside, in Maine. If I can do it, you can do it. Just be patient.
Posted on Jan 08, 2011
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