Question about 2012 Infiniti QX QX56 4dr SUV 5.6L V8 7-speed Automatic

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Even when car start move and turn the steering wheel in D or R position you can hear that noise it is looks like ABS system is get signal form another system . NOTE ; I check it scanner tool there is

Even when car start move and turn the steering wheel in D or R position you can hear that noise it is looks like ABS system is get signal form another system . NOTE ; I check it scanner tool there is no TDC IN ALL CARS SYSTEM EXCEPT AIR BAG SYSTEM OCCUPANT SENSOR FAULT

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I couldn't figure out your problem, however, ABS could lock if the rear hydraulic pump caught water. Here you need to replace it. If you have engine sound that recurs at same intervals, the serpentine belt is worn. If you send photo of the dashboard while the engine is running and tell more details about the problem I may be more specific. Regards, Mothafar.

Posted on May 17, 2014

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Low fluid or excess air in power steering pump

Posted on May 17, 2014

Testimonial: "Even when car start move and turn the steering wheel in D or R position you can hear that noise it is looks like ABS system is get signal form another system . NOTE ; I check it scanner tool there is no TDC IN ALL CARS SYSTEM EXCEPT AIR BAG SYSTEM OCCUPANT SENSOR FAULT. INFINITY 2012 QX56"

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SOURCE: I hear clicking noise when I make a right turn only

if it has drum breaks it may be that i just fixed mine the axcel boot was out too wich helped the ticking in the front but the back was the drum break

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SOURCE: Car is running well.... No changes in gas

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Posted on Jan 01, 2011

smhb1
  • 146 Answers

SOURCE: I found I have code

A P0335 "check engine light" code could be caused by:

  • Damaged CKP sensor connector
  • Damaged reluctor ring (missing teeth or not turning due to sheared-off keyway)
  • Sensor output open
  • Sensor output shorted to ground
  • Sensor output shorted to voltage
  • Failed crank sensor
  • Broken timing belt
  • Failed PCM
  1. Using a scan tool, check if, when engine is running or cranking, that there is an RPM signal.
  2. If there is no RPM reading, then visually inspect the crank sensor and connector for any damage and repair as necessary. If there is no visible damage, and you have access to a scope, you could check the CKP 5 Volt square wave pattern. If you do not, then, obtain a resistance reading of your crank sensor from a repair manual. (There are so many different types of crank sensors that there's no way to put here which resistance reading is correct). Then check the resistance of the CKP sensor by disconnecting the sensor and measuring resistance of the sensor. (It is best to check resistance readings from the PCM connector. This rules out any wiring problems from the start. But it does require some mechanical skill and shouldn't be performed if you\'re not familiar with automobile electrical systems). Is the sensor within resistance specs?
  3. If not, replace the CKP sensor. If so, recheck resistance reading from the PCM connector. Is the reading still okay?
  4. If not, repair open or short in the wiring to the crank sensor and re-check. If the reading is okay, the problem is intermittent or the PCM may be at fault. Try reconnecting and checking for RPM signal again. If there is now an RPM signal, wiggle test the wiring harness to try and induce the fault.

please check this maybe

Posted on Jan 12, 2011

  • 11800 Answers

SOURCE: When my 2005 Infiniti G35x

One of the front wheels isn't balanced correctly and its vibrations cause a resonance in the suspension at that speeds. You might also have a look at the shocks - if you have fitted new tires their hardness and misbalance might bring out the weaknesses in the shocks : these vibrations might be the first sign the shocks have aged and will soon have to be replaced.
You just need to have all the wheels balanced and the bushings of the suspension inspected at a tyre shop - a 30 minute/$50 simple job.

Posted on Jul 20, 2011

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Clunking noise when you turn the steering wheel while driving


The noise will be either the universal joint on the steering column or a component in the steering rack or outer tie rod ends, get someone to sit in the car and move the wheel slightly left and right and have a look and you will be able to see and hear where the noise is coming from

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How to replace the power steering pump on a 2001 Pontiac Aztec


Welcome to Fixya

here's the procedure on how to replace water pump of your car

  • 1 Turn the belt tensioner pulley counterclockwise on the 3.4L modeal. Use a breaker bar and a socket to rotate the center bolt on the tensioner pulley. If you have a 3.5L engine model, turn the pulley clockwise.

  • 2 Slide the drive belt off the steering pump pulley.
  • 3 Detach the black ground cable from the battery using a wrench.
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  • 5 Move any wire brackets near the steering pump out of the way using a wrench or ratchet and socket, if necessary.
  • 6 Disconnect the return hose from the power steering pump by loosening the clamp at the steering pump using a ratchet and socket. Then pull the hose off the pump and let the steering fluid drain into the pan.
  • 7 Detach the pressure hose from the steering pump by unscrewing the retaining nut at the pump using a tube wrench. Let the steering fluid drain on the pan.
  • 8 Unscrew the steering-pump mounting bolts using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
  • 9 Lift the power steering pump off the engine compartment.
  • Install the New Steering Pump
  • 1 Position the new steering pump in place and start the mounting bolts by hand. Then tighten the bolts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
  • 2 Attach the pressure hose to the steering pump by starting the retaining nut by hand. Then tighten the nut using the tube wrench.
  • 3 Connect the return hose to the steering pump. Then tighten the clamp using the ratchet and socket.
  • 4 Reinstall any wire brackets you had to remove using a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  • 5 Connect the black ground cable to the battery using a wrench.
  • 6 Install the drive belt by turning the tensioner pulley counterclockwise using the breaker bar and socket. Then slide the belt over the steering pump pulley. If you have the Aztek 3.5L engine, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise.
  • 7 Reinstall any wire brackets you had to remove form near the steering pump using the wrench or ratchet and socket.
  • 8 Connect the black, ground cable to the battery using a wrench.
  • Bleed the Power Steering System
  • 1 Refill the steering fluid reservoir with new steering fluid. Make sure the level reaches the Full Cold mark on the reservoir.
  • 2 Raise the front of the vehicle using a floor jack until the front tires are off the ground. Then support the car on 2 jack stands.
  • 3 Turn the ignition key to the On position but do not start the engine.
  • 4 Turn the steering wheel fully from left to right 15 times.
  • 5 Check the fluid level in the steering reservoir and add if necessary.
  • 6 Lower the vehicle and start the engine. Turn the steering wheel and listen for steering noises. If you hear noises while turning the steering wheel, repeat steps 2 through 5 of the bleeding procedure to get rid of the air in the steering system. Turn off the engine.

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    Dec 06, 2010 | 2001 Pontiac Aztek

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    I ve got a kalos 1.4sx 2008 and i ve got problems with the brakes. The brakes ''crunch'' when i m bringing the car to a halt,even on dry roads. The abs warning light has been on a couple of times but...


    The Chevrolet/GM autos rely on a Kelsey ABS actuator system that is electronically controlled. I know its hard to describe sounds, but is it possible the crunch is a hum? If the ABS light comes on and goes off after restart it means one of two things. That the ABS controller is going bad or the speed sensors on the wheels have come loose or gone bad. Under your hood there is a fuse compartment that contains the fuse that controls the ABS system on your vehicle. Its a 60 Amp fuse and large.. Look in your owners manual for its location. . Check it with the vehicle OFF to make sure its not blown or cracked. Leave the fuse disconnected and start the car. The ABS light should STAY on as well as the parking brake light. Test your brakes by pressing down on them while the car is in park and not moving.. do you hear the sound. If you DONT hear the sound then the ABS control module is causing the brake pump to work continuously and thus your "noise". YOu can confirm by placing the fuse back in place and then listening to the car about where the drivers door is... do you hear a hum? If so you can leave the fuse disconnected to deactivate the ABS module. The brakes will still function you just WONT have ABS capability. Confirm this with a very slow roll from park or neutral and press brakes to stop. If you dont hear the noise or a hum, reconnect the fuse and take the car for a drive. Turn to the left and right while applying the brake at an intersection.. vehicle in motion slightly. Do you notice that the ABS light or noise occurs turning one way or the other or both? If it comes on during the turn then the ABS sensor in that wheel or both wheels need to be inspected and possibly replaced. Finally, you need to inspect the brake pads for wear..typically however brake pads have WEAR INDICATORS built in and will start to SQUEAL when you apply the brakes telling you time to replace pads. If its a squeal and not a crunch then have pads replaced. Finally, be sure and make sure you dont have any rocks or road debris within the brake area or between teh pads and the rotors. That would be your final area to review for a CRUNCH noise.

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