Question about 2005 Mitsubishi Pajero 2000i
Having trouble getting access to the 4 bolts which hold the hub assembly on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: selecting 4 wheeled drive
Have you check the driv aksel on left and right side, if you have a bad drive shaft , you shall hear a noise specily if you turn the steering to full right ore left. And so can you check the drive shaft betwen the aksel and the reduction gearbox.Have you check the oil in the front diff , if the are metall partikel in the oil? if the are mettal partickle in the oil , you must check the diff
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
If you get the outer hub off, there is a big locknut and snap rings holding the rotor and bearings in. There is a nut on the back side of the rotor is why they are spinning.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
quite a difficult job without the use of a press but if you can see a circlip either side of hub you can change just bearings but normally you would have to press drive flange out of hub first to see any circlips
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
#2 = Hub assembly.
It is a pretty simple process and yes you need to mess with the CV but not much. An impact wrench will make removing the large nut holding the axle in the hub/bearing a whole lot easier. If you have one great, if not, it would be best to try loosening the nut while the car is on the ground. If your car has steel rims with hubcaps(MAGS, I'd put on the spare for this part), start by removing the hubcap then remove the cotter pin that goes through the threaded part of the axle and keeps the nut from coming loose. You may want to spray on some WD-40 and let it soak a little before u start. A breaker bar and socket work well, if u have just a rachet, try to find a 4 foot metal / aluminum tube (old tent pole) and slip it over the handle to give you some more torque to loosen the nut. Once loose, back the nut off and push on the axle shaft to see if it moves, probably won't, so more WD-40. You can raise and support the car, remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor, that should be plenty of time for the WD-40 to work. Try moving it again, if it moves great, if not, hammer time. If you have a large puch or something comparable use it, you really don't want to damage threads. Leave the nut on the axle just in case you do hit the thread, when the axle is moving, take the nut off and this will straighten out the thread if it was damaged. Only thing left now is to remove the 4 bolts holding on the HUB/BEARING assembly. Once they're out it should slide off the axle with out any problems. Slide on the new one and bolt it back together. ONE CAUTION to note DO NOT MOVE THE CAR IF THE AXLE NUT ISN'T TIGHT, YOU'LL SCRAP THE BEARING!!! Here is a link just to show you what the hub assembly looks like from both sides. Hope this is of some help.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
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Mar 27, 2014 | Cars & Trucks
3. Remove retaining ring. If the bearing inner race remains on wheel hub, grind a section of inner race until approximately 0.020 in (0.5 mm) remains. Remove race with a chisel.
4. Remove wheel bearing with suitable tool.
• Do not remove dust cover unless necessary. • Do not reuse dust cover if removed. 5. Mark relative positions of dust cover and knuckle for proper reassembly. 6. Remove dust cover with a chisel.
• Do not remove wheel hub bolt unless necessary. • Do not reuse wheel hub bolt if removed. 7. Remove wheel hub bolt with a press.
Assembly 1. Press in new wheel studs. Front wheel hub press in either bolt turning or loosening by the torque of 108.5 lb•ft (147 N•m, 15 kg•m) shall not be premissible.
2. Mark new dust cover to match the removed dust cover. 3. Align mark on new dust cover with knuckle. 4. Install new dust cover with suitable tool.
5. Install new wheel bearing with suitable tool. 6. Install front wheel hub assembly with suitable tool.
• Use a new oil seal, and apply grease to seal. • Install oil seal so that it is flush with knuckle. 7. Install new oil seal with SST(0K993 331 016).
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