Question about 1990 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

Aloha! My 1990 C-1500 454 SS rear brakes locked up and severely overheated. I did a recent 4-wheel overhaul; new wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes and drums. I did not replace the master and bleeding t

Aloha! My 1990 C-1500 454 SS rear brakes locked up and severely overheated. I did a recent 4-wheel overhaul; new wheel cylinders hardware, shoes and drums (new rotors, calipers, pads, hose). I did not replace the master cylinder and bleeding the system wasn't problematic. Thought the dashboard brake indicator light came on because of front disc brake wear--disconnected the battery to turn the light off. The brake system was working well with heavy use several months ago, the truck was hardly driven since and was only driven 4 miles when the problem occurred. Any suggestions as to what's malfunctioning? Mahalo nui loa...

Posted by on

Ad

2 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Genius:

    An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.

  • Chevrolet Master
  • 2,432 Answers

Check the flexible brake hose on the rear brakes , they some times brake down and stop the fluid from returning, if ok open a bleeder screw , if fluid is expelled and the wheels are free to turn replace the master cylinder

Posted on May 13, 2015

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Chevrolet Master
  • 3,679 Answers

Is ther a rear brake equaliser on the rear axle? this is usually spring operated that pulls up on the rear brake limiter depending on load in vehicle may be stuck in the vehicle loaded position when the vehicle isnt carrying much weight worth a look , just jack up rear end and look for spring device centre of rear axle attached to a device with the brake lines entering/exiting if there get vehicle as high as safe to do then put blocks under rear wheels then slowly lower jack and look to see if the spring device moves down with the vehicle if not this could be the problem as is exerting pressure to rear brakes so causing them to over heat keep me posted

Posted on May 17, 2014

Testimonial: "Aloha and mahalo! There is no spring-actuated equilizer device as you described--only a one-into-two hydraulic brake line fitting. The brake lines look fine--no kinks or other damage. Removed the wheels and the drums still seemed locked up; they easily became free with a few taps of a hammer. The brake components were slightly burned but not destroyed--like how the rear brakes might look after going racing and doing (at least) several two-gear burnouts. The wheel cylinders seem to look okay...The brakes locked up on the road after a short 4 mile drive and the parking/E brake was never actuated; after the lock-up occurred, I tested the parking brake and there was slack, indicating the rear brakes were still locked. The lock-up appears to be a hydraulic system problem. The dash brake light was on--even throwing a 'code 9' before I overhauled the entire system--I thought it appeared because the discs, calipers, pads and lines were at the end of their service life. I haven't checked and/or fired the engine to see it the light's back on because of the lock-up... I'm now thinking master cylinder (didn't replace it because it seemed to be functioning well and all four corners of the brake system bled smoothly), dump valve or the ABS. I thought that if the ABS failed, it doesn't cause a lock-up condition. The fronts--with all new calipers, pads, rotors, bearings, etc. seem to be functioning well. There's still a good, firm feeling on the brake pedal, although the pedal travel was slightly more when the rears locked up. I've serviced the brake system before (even after torturing 'em drag racing) with no problems...I don't have my factory repair manuals here with me; mahalo nui/thank you very much for all your help! ---Bryan"

  • 1 more comment 
  • steve May 18, 2014

    are the return springs fitted ok/still where you fitted them as if the brake are applied and the return spring isnt returning the leading shoe wont be long before the heat build up will caus ethe lining to fuse to the drum , worth a check

  • Bryan Nakamura
    Bryan Nakamura May 21, 2014

    Aloha Steve--The return springs are correct--I disassembled both rears, cleaned the parts, relubed the backing plate, reassembled and adjusted. I did one side at a time and didn't have to bleed the rear brakes. They adjusted nearly as well as before the lock-up problem. It still feels like the brakes are dragging and it gets worse if I apply the parking brake and step on/pump the foot brake; the 454's torque can't move the truck normally at idle (and it really is acting like a roll/control line-lock, only on the rear brakes). The in-dash parking/e- brake light's on now and gets brighter when the p/e brake is applied; I'm now thinking proportioning valve, dump valve, ABS or even the master cyl.. I have no way of scanning the brake system and the front brakes afre functioniong well...

  • steve May 21, 2014

    could be the abs distribution control box , putting more pressure to the rear and not releasing after foot pedal released , cars can send you mad but what's the alternative other than a good woman ,good luck and keep me posted

×

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

1993 Ford Taurus drivers side rear wheel cylinder piston is popping out


Your description sounds like the brakes are WAY out of adjustment. The brake cylinders need the shoes to hit the drum or they will do exactly what you describe. I always adjust the shoes until they lock the wheel, then back off until the wheel spins freely, usually 8 to 20 clicks.

Nov 02, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

R and r procedure for rear brake cylinders for a pontiac sunbird S E


Buy new wheel lock cylinders remove the brake drum then the shoes and spring follow be the brake line then you can remove the cylinder and replace in remember that you must bleed the brake line after doing this start with the farthest from the master cyclinder also good time to replace shoe spings and hardware since you will have to adjust the rear brakes any ways

Dec 31, 2011 | 1993 Pontiac Sunbird

2 Answers

How do i take off the brake drums on a 2003 chevy cavalier


After you remove the tire, the drim should slide off. If it doesn't then try using a rubber mallet and gently tap on the outside edge as you pull on it. Sometimes you also need to tap on the drum in the center part. I have sprayed penetrating lubes like WD-40 or PB Blaster into the seam at the center. You may also have to back off the parking brake cable or even use the adjuster to back off the shoes.

Jan 27, 2011 | 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

Rear passenger brake is hanging up any ideas


Do you have drum or disc rear brakes? If drum, the wheel cylinder probably needs to be replaced. If the wheel has overheated at any time, you should also replace the hardware (springs, etc) as they can lose their ability to retract the shoes if overheated. If disc brakes on rear, then the caliper is probably to blame. Has the brake fluid ever been changed? Fluid absorbs moisture (never use brake fluid from an open or not tightly sealed container). After rebuilding or replacing the caliper or wheel cyl. bleed all 4 wheels to flush out old fluid, otherwise you may have other wheels w/ brakes dragging/not releasing. Let me know if this doesn't fix it, I'll help further.

Mar 28, 2010 | 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

My 2005 dodge neon made a clunk noise and then the passenger rear tire locked up. Up until this point it drove fine. Help!


Your problem would appear to be something amiss in the rear brake on the locked wheel. If a wheel sylinder was leaking the brake shoes would become "sticky" and cause the shoes to "lock on" to the drum. Or if the brake was out of adjustment, the assembly could come apart and pieces of it jamb the wheel. This problem is fairly common with drum brakes. You need to have the rear brakes serviced, & checked for fluid or grease on the braking surfaces. All leaks fixed, backing plates cleaned, the wheel cylinders overhauled, & the brake shoes replaced.

Mar 20, 2010 | 2005 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

R/h rear brake locks up


Does it lock when cold (when 1st driven for the day) or after driving for a while? Pull off the wheel and drum and check for evidence of brake fluid (a leaking brake cylinder) or grease (a bad axle grease seal), either of these can cause the brakes to 'grab' or lock up. If this is what you find, you need to correct the leak problem and replace the brake shoes, which have become contaminated with the fluid. You should always change both rear or front brakes together for the best performance. Also check to make sure the springs and other hardware have not broken or become detached from their mounting positions. After driving for a while, carefully touch the wheel where the lug nuts are to see if that wheel is hotter to touch than the others. If it is, the brakes are 'dragging', not releasing completely as you drive, and heating up. This will also cause them to 'grab' or lock up. If this is the case, back off on the adjuster to see if that solves the problem, but more likely, it is a bad brake cylinder (corrosion inside the brake cylinder) which is causing it to hang up, and not release when you take your foot off the brake. If this is the problem, replace the brake cylinder at the rear wheel, and flush out the brake lines to avoid a similar problem in the near future with the other wheels. If the wheel was overheating due to the problem, you also need to replace the brake hardware(springs do not work properly when severely overheated).

Oct 07, 2009 | 1997 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

Truck has been sitting for a couple years in


HI THERE
YOU PROBLEM IS YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE PARKING BRAKE CABLES .THEY ARE RELEASED BUT NOT ALL THE WAY CAUSING THE SHOES TO SIT TO CLOSE TO THE DRUMS.WHEN ADJUSTING YOUR BRAKES HAVE THE REAR END OF THE TRUCK OFF THE GROUND TIRES ON AND SLOWLY ADJUST ADJUSTERS AT THE SAME TIME TURNING THE TIRE UNTIL YOU FEEL A SLIGHT DRAG REPEAT FOR OTHER WHEEL

Jun 10, 2009 | 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

I need a schematic for the rear brakes on an F150 super cab with 4.6L automatic trans 4wheel drive


Drum, Rear Brake System Standard Rear Brake
9969082.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin 2 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd) 3 — Washer (2 Req'd) 4 — Anchor Pin (Part of 2211) 5 — Wheel Cylinder 6 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Short) 9 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Long) 10 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Secondary) 11 — Washer 12 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 13 — Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 14 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 15 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 16 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 17 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 18 2048 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket 19 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 20 2041 Brake Adjusting Screw 21 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 22 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Primary) 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2211 Brake Backing Plate
Heavy Duty Rear Brake
6dcb5d2.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt 2 00538 Lock Nut 3 2212 Rear Brake Backing Plate 4 2262 Rear Wheel Cylinder 5 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 6 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 9 — Parking Brake Lever Bolt 10 — Secondary Shoe Assembly 11 2A179 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 12 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 13 — Adjusting Lever Pin 14 — Adjusting Lever Return Spring 15 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 16 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 17 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 18 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw 19 — Primary Shoe Assembly 20 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 21 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining 22 2035 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2092 Brake Adjusting Hole Cover 25 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
The rear drum brakes:
  • Have internal shoes that expand against the brake drum (1126).
  • Are a single-anchor type.
  • Are actuated by one rear wheel cylinder (2262).
  • Have two pistons in the rear wheel cylinder (2261). One exerts force against the upper end of the primary shoe; the other exerts force against the upper end of the secondary shoe.
  • Adjust rear brake shoes and linings (2200) automatically.
  • Need manual brake adjustment if the adjusters are not operating properly or after the rear brake shoes and linings have been replaced.
When the brake pedal is applied, hydraulic fluid pressure forces the pistons in the rear wheel cylinder outward, moving the rear brake shoes and linings against the brake drum.
The rear drum brake system includes the parking brake mechanism. Refer to Section 206-05 .

Apr 04, 2009 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

Rear brakes wont apply consistantly


1- brake system low on fluid,
2- improperly bled (air in lines).
3- Master cylinder (applies equal pressure to all 4 cylinders) is bad.

Jan 08, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

2 Answers

REAR BRAKES


i think your aware of how to change the brakes if im right and your problem is the rusted drum doesnt want to come off the only way to get the old drum off is to remove adjuster plug from behind drum dustshield and adjust the shoes so that there not even close to the braking area of the drum then try and wiggle the drum off of the assembly if it is not coming off then you need to use the old nylon hammer on the drum and i mean you must hit the drum from side to side trying by hand to wiggle the drum off its a tight fit and you need to strike the drum on the face not on the fins not wanting to damage with persistance and care and patience you will eventually be able to remove the drum to service brakes take care and good luck with it

Jul 01, 2008 | 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT Sport Hatchback

Not finding what you are looking for?
1990 Chevrolet K1500 Logo

191 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Chevrolet Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76132 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8273 Answers

Are you a Chevrolet Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...