Question about 2003 Ford Ranger Regular Cab
ITS A TERRIBLE BIG JOB,WHILE YOU ARE AT IT CHANGE THE RESERVOIR AS WELL. DID YOU REPLACE THE CLUTCH AND SLAVE RECENTLY BECAUSE THEY ARE A RETARD TO BLEED THE SYSTEM AFTER.
Posted on May 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch
have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
To replace the clutch master, you must remove the under hood fuse box and air filter housing assm, then remove the hydraulic line that goes into the inlet port of the clutch master, then inside the car, remove the hush panel/knee bolster panel from under the steering column, and loosen the boilts that retain the brake pedal to the firewall, then remove the two 10mm bolts that secure the clutch master to the brake pedal assm. Reverse procedure ti install, then fill the brake master cylinder with clean fluid, loosen the bleeder screw at the top of the trans, and bleed the clutch as you would the regular brake system, but never pump the pedal, tighten screw, with foot off of clutch pedal open screw and press pedal to floor, then tighten screw before you release pedal, then release pedal loosen screw, etc. until no more air comes out, it may take quite a few times to fully bleed the system.
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
THERE IS A SPECIAL TOOL THAT CAN BE RENTED OR PURCHASED AT YOUR LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE. IT CONSISTS OF A LARGE OPEN END WRENCH AND A LONG FORK-LIKE TOOL THAT GRABS THE NUTS ON THE FAN SO THAT THE WRENCH CAN LOOSEN THE LARGE NUT THAT HOLDS THE FAN CLUTCH TO THE FAN. I HOPE THIS HELPS. THANKS FOR USING FIX-YA AND FOR AN HONEST RATING. P.S. BE SURE TO LOOK AT THE NEW CLUTCH TO FIND OUT WHICH DIRECTION THE THREADS GO. SOME OF THESE ARE LEFTY TIGHTY, SOME ARE LEFTY LOOSEY. GOOD LUCK
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
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