Question about 2004 Jeep Liberty
Do you mean that injector #1 is spraying fuel externally or leaking into engine?
Posted on May 20, 2014
Likely the O ring on the top of the fuel injector that seals it to the fuel rail hes failed. You need to remove the fuel rail and change the O ring. Use Viton O rings for sealing gasoline.
Lube the O rings before reassembly, should go together smoothly and not need to be forced.
Posted on May 16, 2014
Sounds like the relay is stuck in an open position and needs to be replaced.
Posted on May 16, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most of the times on jeeps and all chrysler auto's they have a body control modual this is what controls your door locks , windows ect. It should be in the owners manual for all fuse location and identification. A shop with a scanner can check the door lock system for you. body control moduals go bad alot on all chyslers and if you buy one you need to buy it from the dealership they will program it . So check the owners manual for a fuse and then have the body control mod checked
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
1-20amp-pwr outlet frt. 2-10amp-rear fog lights(export only)
3-15 amp-horn 4-10amp-hedlt low beam rt
5-10amp-hedlt low beam lft 6-20amp-bodycontrolmodule/pwr dr locks 7-spare 8-spare 9-10amp- rt pk lt /rt tail lt/trailer tow lt/cluster
10-spare 11-15 amp-flasher 12-15 amp-stop lts
15-10amp-pdc fuel pmp & auto shutdownrelays/skis
16-20amp-pwr outlet rear 17-15amp-rear wiper 18-20amp-radio choke relay 19-20amp-frt fog lts/trailer tow stop and turn lts
20-20amp-sunroof 21-spare 22-10amp-wiperswitch/frt and rear washer 23-10amp-lft park lt/lft tail lt 24-10amp-pdc blower motor relay 25-10amp-heatseatswitch/hvac controlhead/trailor tow battery charge 26-10amp-hedlt highbeam rt 27-10amp-hedlt highbeam lft
28-spare 29-15amp-heated seat module 30-10amp-heated mirrors/rearwindowdefrosterindicator 31-20amp-cigarlighter
33-10amp-skis/diagnostic connector 34-15amp-cluster/courtesy lts/radio/bodycontrolmodule/maplights/cmtc/underhood lt/vanity lts
35-spare 36-10amp-ignition run/start-orc/lft and rt siacm
37-10amp-ignition run only-orc 38-10amp-abs module/brake shift interlock solenoid 39-10amp-rear window defroster relay/flasher/backup lts
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
Its the switch behind the fan nob thats not making contact, you have to pop the cover off the dash where the radio fan and other gizmos are. Then remove the fan nobs by pulling them straight off after that unscrew the housing unit inside is the switch. You must carefully pry this open so as not to break the plastic clips holding it together the switch thats fryed should just pop out easy replacement fan switch! If my mind serves me right it costs 40$ to replace if you order from chrysler.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
On the back of the control panel there is a plastic connector that plugs into the fan speed control. You can unplug it and use a meter to find incoming (hotwire) take a jumper or a 6 inch peice of wire and insert it into the spade where the hot wire is wired to. Take the other end of the wire and insert it into the 1st spade in the plastic connector next to the hot wire spade this will let you know that the fan will run at the selected speed. Then pull the test wire out and plug it into the next spade and so on and so on. I am sure your fan will respond step by step , fan speed 1 then 2 and then 3. After you make this test you will know that your fan is ok. You will just have to replace the plastic connector with new spades in it. You should see some evidence of over heating on the old connector. It may be that you only need to unsnap the connector and then reconnet it and it will probably work fine. It has proberly just become partially unpluged. All the other info that I gave you early on was just to trouble shoot it. mike
Posted on Nov 02, 2009
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