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Many torque specs can be transposed. the key is to know what other similar models are there. A torque speck is the safe limit to witch to tighten a bolt. so if you can find the similar torque on a similar engine that does not seem too high I would start there. if it is an all cast iron engine I would try 95 foot LBS but is it is Aluminum I probably would not go over 25. Just saying. the torque is also directly related to the compression of the engine and the compression is directly related to the octane required, if you are not required to burn high octane then you have a low compression engine and most likely a low torque speck and if it is an aluminum head and block the very more likely very low torque.
best of luck
You need "spec". Just replace pulley, then pull it as tight as you can. after that, there should be no more than 1/4" slack in the pulley. In other words, try to bend the belt with your finger. Does it push out of line more than a quarter of an inch? If so, tighten it up.
On the 1977 the ignition module is an aluminum box that should be mounted somewhere in the engine compartment. The ignition pick-up is mounted inside the distributor and you must remove the drive gear from the shaft in order to pull the shaft out and slide the pick-up off the hub of the distributor. This is not an easy job and most people try replacing the module first as it is usually the problem.
The timnig could be out of time. The system could have skipped . When replacing the timing chain you should turn the engine over by hand with out starting two or three times to make sure the marks stay lined up. The timing chain tensioner could be weak.
quite posibly did you folow torque specks
there is a factory torque speck to seat the bearings and races then a back off spec if you didnt follow this you might not have tightened them right leson learned
i bin there and done that