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was your car running fine? if it was than yes if the ambient temp was over 100 then that is perfectly normal. the gasses in the tank would just expand and cause that kind of symptoms. very cool car btw i love those tiny little things.
Does it start right back up?if it does does it run another five miles. Does the car seem to be too hot? Is the check engine light on with the engine running? If the lights on get the codes read and follow their lead. over heating is in the five mile range as is the fuel tank not getting air in to let the fuel flow out. The exhaust can be stopped up but if it does restart after quitting it'll runn only a short time before it quits again. Driving the car harder will make it quit sooner as will warmer weather.
You most likely have a bad wiring issue on top of the fuel tank sending unit/fuel pump holder bracket. A replacement of this unit will be necessary to rectify your condition; I change these quite often; a very common failure, with exactly the symptom you describe.
You will either need to drop the tank (hard), or remove the bed (easier) to replace the unit.
If it is happening more frequently in cold or damp weather it could be a spark issue. Wet or damp weather can effect spark plug wires if there is even minor damage to them (usually occurs durring rain). The other things that come to mind are the fuel pump and lastly the fuel line check ball that is in the fuel tank. If it is leaking then all the fuel in the line will drain back into the tank over night (pressure lost in the fuel line) and this will cause repeated, extended cranking when you first start the car in the morning or after the car has sat for several hours.
Don't rule out fuel pump. Had a 95 do the same, ran great when cool in morning then when it got hot in afternoon, it would quit. Wait 15-20 minutes & go again, sometimes got me home, other times a few more miles until it cooled down again. Luckily I had access to a fuel pressure gauge. Cool in morning had 49 psi, when it quit, 2 psi. Wait 20 minutes, 49 psi again. If you can drive it around until it starts to act up then run into a repair shop for fuel pressure test it will confirm it. If not, they may need it all day to monitor the fuel pressure & confirm it is pump. If your a gambler, change it & fuel filter. One thing I did get was trouble codes indicating a lean mixture, due to starving for fuel. Have you cycled your key to retrieve any codes yet?
sounds like one of a couple things could be causing you problems first would be the fuel pump may be wearing out. these are a mechanical pump and should be producing over 35psi at the injection pump if you have a way to put a gauge on it you could check this under full throttle is when you want to watch it though. fuel gauges are quite inexpensive and are handy to have in the truck anyway. another thing i have seen cause this is the check valve on the discharge of the pump there is a spring and ball in the return line banjo fitting that holds the fuel pressure at a constant 35 psi when that gets weak it allows more fuel to return to the tank which will let it run at lower rpm's but not under full load. hope this helps
It sounds like the engine is pulling fuel from the tank, and not replacing it with air, causing a vacuum to build in the tank. The vacuum, may build to the point that it resists the fuel pump's efforts to **** fuel from it. If the vacuum is sufficient, it may collapse the tank, or expand the fuel enough for the engine manifold vacuum to **** raw gas into the evaporative emissions control system, hence the cannister.
Replacing the fuel pump, and filter will both break this vacuum, and make it run well for a few more miles, until the vacuum builds again.
The tank is usually vented to relieve pressure and vacuum through the gas cap.
Basically, sounds like a bad gas cap.
Try driving with the cap loose or removed. If that fixes it, buy a new cap. Preferably a locking one, as the amount of fuel these trucks hold is pretty tempting to less than honest folks. My 1990 C2500 has a 34 gallon tank.
Coil?? with the other symptoms, how'd you come up with that?
sounds sort of like a map sensor or the heating and cooling sensor. Both help regulate the fuel. also need to check to see if the thermastat is stuck to open. If the hot and cold sensor is giving a false reading of hot to the computer this can cause the car not to pump fuel. If the sensor is bad also replace the therm as well.