Question about 1997 Mercury Mountaineer
A Simple 5/8 deep socket( get a spark plug socket they work nicer) and get some extensions and a ratchet and some swivels. I like to use 3/8 size tools. Once in a while a 1/2 tools may be nice if a plug is not coming out. Next soak the plugs in the engine with some penetrating oil if they are giving you a hard time. dont use alot, just 2 seconds of spraying. Allow engine to cool off to air temp. This will allow thing to not burn you or for you to damage the soft threads in the aluminum head.
Changing plugs have not changed much on these vehicles than vehicles in the past. Just remove the spark plug boots carefully. Now you can remove each spark plug. Use the extensions and swivels in many combinations if one is not working easy enough. Always make sure you know what gap these plugs need to be and set them. Always use an Anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the spark plugs. This will prevent them from under torquing and getting stuck in the future. Put preferably new spark plug wires back on and use Dielectric grease to prevent the boots from sticking to the spark plugs and from moisture getting in between them.
The first 30 seconds or so of running may be rough if you decide to use penetrating oil to loosen the spark plugs. This is why you should us as little as needed. More oil makes for longer crap running time. Just let the engine idle on its own and clear it out on its own. Dont rev the engine or force anything until it warms up to normal operating temps. Cold engines and revving is not good for internal parts.
Good luck :)
Posted on Jun 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 Mercury mountaineer
you may have a bad coil---take a pair of rubber handle plyers & remove the spark plug wires 1 at a time---when you pull off a plug wire you should notic the truck runs even worse---the one you pull off & it doesnt change the way it runs--that is the cylinder that has the problem
Posted on Jun 28, 2008
IIRC these are a coil over design. meaning the coil is over the plug. the coil should have one 8mm bolt holding it on the lower intake manifold. remove the coild to get to the spark plugs. look by the fuel injectors, coil should be just next to it or very close. coil usually says motorcraft on it and circle in design.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
The best way to change it is to flush it out You can do it yourself, but I do not recommend. A shop that is good like a Monro or Firestone usually charges about 100 bucks to flush and that includes the fluid. If you do it yourself, you will save about 60 dollars, but you risk damage to your radiator.
you will need a hose and an adapter. you back out the lower, or upper cooler line for your trans, whichever is the easiest to get to, (Some trucks have an auxiliary engine oil cooler, but make sure you are flushing the trans lines) put the adapter into the rad where you removed the line, and put a hose from each one down into a bucket. Have about 14 qt's of ford trans fluid ready. Put the funnel into the trans dip stick, and start the engine. pour the qts into the dipstick tube while the old fluid is pumped into the bucket. When you have about two gallons pumped into the bucket shut the engine off and reattach the line into the radiator. start up the engine and check your level. Fill with additional fluid if needed.
note: some say you should drop the pan. two things, you only change half the fluid when you do it that way, and second if you need to change the filter because it is clogged, it is too late for the transmission. The filter is only there to protect the valve body, not keep the fluid clean.
Hope this helps
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
it means the catalyst is worn out, the efficiency is monitored by sensors, when the Cat falls below a certain reading or "threshold" the code is generating telling u that u need a new catalytic converter.
Posted on Feb 18, 2010
Reconnect the air hose to the throttle body and any vacuum lines that were removed. Replace the plastic engine cover and fasten it in place. That's it, your done.
Posted on Apr 28, 2010
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