Where are the bleeder screws for a mazda deisel

No it doesn't need one. use a hose clip loosened to allow air to escape.

Try bleeding first. The bleed port is at the right of the pic below. Here is the procedure: HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

1. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw on the release cylinder.
2. Place a bleeder tube over the end of the bleeder screw.
3. Submerge the other end of the tube in a jar half filled with hydraulic brake fluid.
4. Slowly pump the clutch pedal fully and allow it to return slowly, several times.
5. While pressing the clutch pedal to the floor, loosen the bleeder screw until the fluid starts to run out. Then close the bleeder screw. Keep repeating this Step, while watching the hydraulic fluid in the jar. As soon as the air bubbles disappear, close the bleeder screw.
6. During the bleeding procedure the reservoir must be kept at least 3 / 4 full.

Disconnect the electrical connector for the "Water-In Fuel" sensor from the lower end of the filter housing. Then the filter assembly simply unscrews like an oil filter.After the fuel filter is off, you must unscrew the sensor from the lower end of the old filter and transfer it to the new filter. Then screw the new filter into place. There is a screw on the top of the filter housing to bleed the air from the fuel filter assembly. Loosen or remove the screw and pump the hand pum on top of the filter housing until fuel comes out the bleeder. Then tighten the bleeder and start the engine. If you did everything correctly, it should start right up and continue running. If it starts the dies in a couple of seconds, then you must perform the bleeding process again. (SEE PICTURES BELOW)

Hint: Sometimes it is much easier to get to the filter through the right wheel housing. It may be easier to support the vehicle and remove the right front tire to get to it.

keep you fluid level above 3/4 full- assuming you have a hydrolic clutch- unhook negitve battery cable remove rubber cap from bleeder screw on the release cylinder.place place a bleeder tube over the end of the bleeder screw.sumerge other end in a jar thats half full of hydrolic brake fluid.slowly pump the clutch pedal fully and let return slowly several times requires two people while pressing clutch to the floor lossen bleeder untill fluid comes out then close keep repeating this while keeping an eye on your bleeder tube jar as soon as you see no more bubbles close the bleeder screw and again make sure to keep an eye on resivor to remain 3/4 full or will get air in the line and have to start over. this part should be located on the tranny this is for hydrolic bleeding system refure to your owners manual for your type and location of your clutchrelease slave cylander.

if you are not getting any heat when it is at normal operating temperature , you may have air trapped in the cooling system . some vehicles have a bleeder screw in which you would remove the screw and add coolant without the engine running until there is no air bubbling out of the hole that you removed the screw from .then put the screw back in and let it run keeping an eye on your temp gauge . If you have no bleeder screw , then you have to either jack the front of the car up high or park on a VERY steep incline and let the car idle making sure the coolant stays full until the trapped air is purged from the cooling system . In most cases when air is gone out , you will get good heat from your heater and should run at normal temp. you can also call mazda first to see if it has a bleeder screw and exactly where it is located .

There is a slave cylinder on the side of the transmission that has a bleeder screw in it. You'll need to pump the clutch pedal 4 or 5 times and hold the pedal down, while someone opens the bleeder valve, any air in the system will come out. Repeat this process until no air or air bubbles comes out of the bleeder screw.

If you bled them properly, ( with a hose on the bleeder screw, and the other end into a bottle of brake fluid) then your master cylinder is probably faulty. If you don't know what i mean by the hose thing, you get a piece of vacuum line about 2 feet long, that will fit tight over the bleeder screw. You put the other end in a clear glass bottle, about half full of brake fluid. Pump your brakes until no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Tighten the bleeder screw, and repeat on each wheel.

Did you bleed the lines? You have to open the bleeder screw on the slave cyl. Put a piece of hose over the bleeder, and the other end into a glass bottle of brake/clutch fluid. Keep pumping the clutch until no more bubbles come out. Tighten the bleeder screw, and remove the hose. Should work. If it doesn't , you have faulty parts.

Try cracking open bleeder screw & slowly use a "C" clamp.

location:under the hood.