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I have a Spitronics fuel management system on my vehicle. I am experiencing huge interference on the timing pick up sensor. what can i do?

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Insulate it with some exhaust insulating wrap.

Posted on Jun 14, 2014


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SOURCE: My 4g93 GDI vehicle is cranking but can not start.have tried angle crank shaft(pick up) sensor.What else do i look for ? could it be fuel pump

fuel filter,tune up,check battery.

Posted on Mar 10, 2013

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On all vehicles in the 1980's car makers started using computer controlled fuel injection systems and these systems have numerous sensors . These sensors give information to the computer for fuel control. Some of these sensors are the coolant temp. , mass airflow, oxygen sensors, if one of these sensor is reporting wrong information to the engine computer it could cause the symptoms you are experiencing. Along with vacuum leaks, plugged catalytic converters, miss firing spark plugs . Most usually a flashing check engine light will accompany a miss fire. These sensors degrade over time and miles, and it helps to have a diagnostic scan tool to check the sensors outputs to the engine computer. Fuel trims can also be viewed on a scan tool , these short term and long term fuel trims show how much fuel is added or subtracted, positive numbers = adding fuel negative numbers = taking fuel away . So what I'm trying to say here is that these are complex systems and sometimes you need to take them to someone who has the tools and knowledge to fix them !

Jul 23, 2014 | 2001 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

What do codes P1175 & P1237 actually mean? Why are there so many options to choose from? How can I actually repair it?

The ECM has numerous sensors that are read continuously and these results are checked against pre-set parameters in the CPU memories. Every possible cause of a fault code is an associated sensor that is being affected by the fault so there are several possible reasons that cause the fault . That is to say wiring is a possible cause ---the unit itself is another possible cause---low /high voltage is another and so on. Take it to a service centre as with most makes of vehicles there is a common fault problem that experienced technicians are aware of and can pin point quickly. As with advice from readers the causes are general areas of advice to look at so if it appears confusing then take it to an experienced shop.

May 17, 2014 | 2001 Volvo V70 XC

1 Answer

No rpm on cluster, were can i pick up the rpm with a seprate wire

i think the pick up for the rev counter ,is on the shaft for your distributor if that is the case you change the shaft but it can dirty connections at the coil .so clean the wires there first.

Dec 15, 2013 | 2002 Chrysler Town & Country

3 Answers

I have a Hyundai IMAX (2008 model). Recently, it has started idling rough, dropping to 500 rams and losing power. It has stalled a few times and can not be started afterwards. Mainly happens when it i

Have the fault codes read to check for sensor faults . Go somewhere else to get the job done as I feel you are being touched in the wallet.

Nov 29, 2013 | 2006 Audi A4

1 Answer

2001 Ford Focus. What is the speed sensor's function?

If you are talking about the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) , it relays to the ECM (Electronic Control Module) what the vehicle speed is so that it can manage fuel mixture and transmission shift points as well as ignition timing. On some vehicles it also is used for the ABS system and for the cruise control and to make speedometer readings.

Jan 31, 2013 | 2001 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Fault code p2260 what is this

Diagnostic Test Code (DTC) P2260 has a standard definition of "Secondary Air Injection System Control "B" Circuit High"

This means that the secondary air injection system has a circuit malfunction that needs to be diagnosed. Your secondary air injection system pumps air into the exhaust system to provide extra oxygen in the exhaust so that any unburned hydrocarbons (gas) can continue to burn as it goes down the exhaust .

This problem can upset the expected/actual signal from the oxygen and/or air fuel sensors and can cause the engine to go into "failsafe", " reduced power" or "limp" mode depending on the strategy/wording used by the vehicle manufacturer. To put it simply, it can indirectly affect the way your engine is running, but not always.

Your engine may be running a lot richer (more fuel added) than you are used to. The failsafe or limp-in modes are usually pretty rich to ensure that the engine will have sufficient fuel to continue running. This could potentially cause the loss of power and possibly even the noise you are experiencing - but then again, maybe not. Again, depending on the manufacturers specific strategy for the particular vehicle.

My recommendation is to properly diagnose and repair the secondary air injection system and see if the other symptoms you are experiencing go away. If they do not, then they are obviously caused by some other problem that will also have to be diagnosed.

Jan 23, 2012 | Jaguar X-Type Cars & Trucks

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When you try to crank your truck it turns over but wont you let of the key and try it again and it cranks up


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WARNING! I'm sometimes accused of not giving short answers. However, my philosophy is that too much is better than too little.

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This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank. However, today's computerized vehicles can only be accurately diagnosed with the use of a code scanner or code reader. (AutoZone will loan you one -- FREE) You need a fuel pressure gauge so as to ascertain that fuel pressure at the manifold is at least 41 psi. (AutoZone will loan you one -- FREE). When you turn the key to the RUN position, the fuel management system immediately sends enough fuel to the injectors to start the vehicle without flooding it. The fuel pressure regulator may also be defective or clogged, Disassemble it and check if the screen is clogged. If so, use a small pick and remove the screen. You won't interfere with proper functioning of the regulator by removing the screen.

My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is located under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions at this preliminary stage.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan - borrowed from AutoZone - is needed to identify any system trouble. Use this easy-to-use simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best


Jun 24, 2011 | Chevrolet Silverado Cars & Trucks

1 Answer hard to start cold engine is difficult to pick up rpms , will only rev to about 3500 4000 rpms , cuts , misses when it does so , also difficult to start like timing is off...

Engine is difficult to start when cold
  1. Check the battery condition, battery state of charge and starter motor current draw. Replace the battery if marginal and the starter motor if the current draw is beyond specification.
  2. Check the battery cable condition. Clean the battery terminals and replace corroded or damaged cables.
  3. Check the fuel system for proper operation. A fuel pump with insufficient fuel pressure or clogged injectors should be replaced.
  4. Check the engine's tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification.
  5. Check for a failed coolant temperature sensor, and replace if out of specification.
  6. heck the operation of the engine management systems for fuel and ignition; repair or replace failed components as necessary.
Engine is difficult to start when hot
  1. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contaminated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage.
  2. Check for loose or deteriorated engine grounds and clean, tighten or replace as needed.
  3. Check for needed maintenance. Inspect tune-up and service related items such as spark plugs and engine oil condition, and check the operation of the engine fuel and ignition management system.

Jan 06, 2011 | 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300-Class

1 Answer

2001 xterra (update) engine service soon is on

Hello, A lack of power can come from a multitude of problems and I will give you guidance and how to solve your problem. I would first change your oil and fuel filters and run some injector cleaner through your system to see if this helps your underpowerment. Next, I would do a tune up and replace your spark plugs and wires, oil and oil filter, rotary cap and button. You may have some faulty coil packs and possibly a fuel pump which is about to go out as well. I would try a mid grade or a higher grade of gasoline for your vehicle with the fuel injector cleaner, fuel filter, and air filter. If this does not solve the sputtering, Autozone offers free diagnostic of your electrical system and they will run a code check on your vehicle for free! I would be safe and guess this is just a clogged fuel filter or some corroded wires on your coil or your spark plugs so give your engine a good once over and this tune up. Yes, this can be a knock sensor as well to answer your problem and by knowing that I know you have enough mechanical knowledge to fix whatever is ailing your vehicle! The knock sensor senses when fuel is burning unevenly and causing "knocking" or irregular vibrations in the engine. I hope this helps you fix your problem!

May 23, 2009 | 2001 Nissan Xterra

2 Answers

1998 Cherokee Sport 2.5 mpi engine cuts out

A vehicle turning should have no effect on the fuel system .remember it is not an aircraft.i suspect it to be a differential problem.have it checked since it will still be in guarantee/warranty.

Dec 05, 2008 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee

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