Question about 2006 Ford Fusion

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I was told my three rear ignition coils needed to be replaced. I replaced them to save money , my emissions light turned off and than turned back. Originally the car would idle high and shake when in

My car is sluggish, and emissions light is on. I changed my rear 3 ignition coils and issue seems to be something else. My emission light flashed yesterday. what could I check? could the catalytic converter cause this?

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Check for vac leaks or what is the code for the c/e light? also did you replace the boots on the coils or use the old ones have you tried new spark plugs it would really help to know what codes are

Posted on Jun 02, 2014

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No the cat converter can not unless it is plugged but the cylinder misfire can cause the cat to go bad. a engine idling high means a vacuum leak and misfire.

Posted on May 31, 2014

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 ford focus car idled well

have you ck=hecked the crankshaft posisition sensor.if its bad the coil pack wont fire.

Posted on Jul 29, 2008

SOURCE: 2003 escape idling to high, exhaust pipes turning orange red, not cataylic

Your escape is a 3.0L duratec motor. Is the motor itself overheating or just the pipes? The high idle is often related to a dirty Idle Air Control module or IAC, which is located on the top of the motor near the throttle body. If you clean this, or replace it, after a few days the high idle is often times solved.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

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SOURCE: Catalytic converter failure

smells like rotten eggs and often rattles

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

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SOURCE: 2003 ford f 150 4.6 v8 and the idle went from

have the vehicle scanned for error codes at autozone, its free. Post codes for more help....These engines have issues with the COPs (ignition coils-over-plugs) failing prior to 80k miles. When they fail typical problems are: Sputtering under load/acceleration, rough idle, random misfires, random stalling, light or heavy jerking under load (usually at 15-35mph and 45-65mph)..hopefully this helps!!

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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SOURCE: failed emissions test

Hi Don,

First, thank you for asking me for my input on this. It just so happens, that I used to own a Ford ranger that had the same engine as yours. It was a 1990, but there are few changes to these model years.

Anyway, there is only one reason that your HC levels would be high. Your engine has WAY too much unburned fuel in the exhaust. The same reason applies to high CO levels. Too much fuel and/or not enough air.

Below is a link that you may find very helpful. It explains exactly what we are talking about here and also lists some of the possible causes.


Incidently, when I had the same emissions failure on my truck, replacing the air filter and replacing a failed MAP sensor fixed it. - I did NOT have to replace the catalytic converter. If the numbers are as high as you listed above, you will only destroy a new converter anyway because there is obviously not enough oxygen in your exhaust system for the catalyst to function properly. Those numbers are nearly DOUBLE the allowable maximum. If the engine is running correctly and the catalyst is good, your numbers will be WAY BELOW those maximum numbers.

Please understand that I am NOT telling you to replace your MAP sensor without proper diagnosis. There are many possible causes here. Please click the link above and read the article. It will help you to understand what is going on here.

Posted on Oct 23, 2011

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Ford 460 won't start. Checked coil wire,from coil put it against the breather cover cranked motor and one yellow spark only three times. No constant spark at all and only flashed the timing li

a yellow spark indicates a weak coil of failing ignition control module
the spark should be a bright blue and the gap can be up to 1/4" for a good system
the spark will only occur when the igniter is activated and that spark is diverted by the distributor cap to the correct plug
Yes I agree that the shop is taking advantage of your friend
Try and find an accredited service shop with experience on your make of car and talk with them
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The cat is the primary part for cleaning up your emissions. Like any bad part on a car if it is not replaced in a timely manner it can lead to other parts going bad, such as the oxygen sensors. It can also negatively effect your gas mileage, because the computer determines fuel off of the oxygen sensors. The check engine light should also be on preventing you from passing inspection(if your area has an emissions inspection).

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My car turns over but has no spark. i replaced the plugs and wires still nothin. bought coil dont know how to put it in

Troubleshooting electronic ignition problems can be expensive guesses!

Buying the plugs and wires was a good thing to do. The coil you bought is mounted under your distributor cap, and basically held in place with 2 screws. It is not the most likely cause of your car not starting, but could be. The most likely part to fail is the electronic ignition module..

A good source to help you on your problem is a subscription to it is a online service manual just for your car, and it will save you time and money. It costs about $20 but worth it if you need help..

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VW Passat 2001: Exhaust emission warning lamp flashing. Manual says 'blinks if the catalyst can be damaged by misfires'. Any suggestions?

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1. Pop open the hood.
2. Insert the key in the ignition and turn without starting the engine until all of the dash indicators light and warning tones sound.
3. With the key still in the ignition, use a 10mm wrench or socket to loosen and completely disconnect the negative (-) battery cable from the battery. Wait about 60 seconds before reconnecting.
4. Re-connect and tighten the negative (-) cable to the battery and close the hood.
If the light stays on, then there really is a problem. If it has turned off, be glad, but don't be surprised to see it come on again in a few weeks. If it comes on again, simply follow steps 1-5. Remember... This quick repair is for those who just can't stand looking at this light or afford to visit VW every time this light comes on. If you feel the need to service the vehicle, service the vehicle. I hope this has made your "NIGHTMARE" a little easier!!!

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All 3 of these jobs are notoriously expensive. Much to the delight of whoever it is you have gone to see....

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