Question about Cars & Trucks
Dealership parts department? Auto parts store? Maybe a generic spring from the hardware store will suffice? Find the part number and google it. (You didn't specify make and model, which makes it impossible to offer any additional help.)
Posted on May 15, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rear brake diagram
Look at other side rear brake, if you can't transpose it in your mind, then stick a big mirror in front of the other side and take a photo of the brake image in the mirror ... hmmm, you may end up thinking like this after a while. I don;t know that that is a good thing;~).
good luck, ..ajm
please rate all solutions
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
make sure your star wheel is moving freely. usually located at the bottom betwwen the shoes that's your adjuster and when it seizes up then you lose adjust
Posted on Feb 23, 2009
there should be several springs. first there are (2) real short springs that hold the shoes to the dust cover/back plate. they go in the center of each shoe. then there is a short spring that goes at the bottom where the adjuster is located. there should be a hole in each shoe. finally there is a long spring that goes at the top where your brake cylinder is and this is what gets attched last after your emergancy brake levers are placed between the shoes .
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
you need to replace only the shock cartridges. Also have the tires rebalanced.
When you receive advice from this website you have to understand that without the item in front of us, we are only able to provide "a best guess" as to what the problem might be based on you description of the defect. If you haven't described a clear and precise description of the defect you decrease the chances of an accurate reply. Thank you.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
SOURCE: Replace coil spring
You have to remove them - that "block" is the upper strut-to-body mounting section and serves as the upper seat for the spring as well as the anchor for the top of the strut. You need to take those four 17mm bolts out, as well as the rear upper sway bar bolt, the upper control arm bolt (at the top of the hub), and the bottom bolt on the strut, where it goes through the lower control arm. You'll then have to compress the spring enough to take the bolt out of the "block" (it goes through sideways, and I believe is 19mm on the bolt head as well as the nut). At this point, you can slide the spring/strut out of the block, decompress the spring, pull out the strut, and install a new spring over the strut. Recompress enough to get the top of the strut visible through the anchor bolt hole in the block, rebolt it, decompress the spring, and reinstall the assembly in the car. Usually when you go to reinstall it, the bottom of the strut is not angled quite right once the top four 17mm bolts are back in and the block is secured to the body. I put a large screwdriver through the lower strut bolt hole at the bottom of the strut and use that to turn it, or I grab the weld near the bottom of the strut with large ChanneLock pliers and turn it until it's aligned with the control arm properly. Once it is, put the lower bolt back in, rebolt the control arm and sway bar, and you're good to go.
Note - this job will not affect alignment specs - you don't remove any bolts used in aligning the car, so that's not a concern when doing this repair.
Posted on May 01, 2009
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