Question about Mazda 626

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What could be wrong with my transmission? It changed from drive to neutral by itself

I have couple of issues that bothers me about my 2000 mazda 626LX 2.0 engine with automatic transmission. First one is - I had the engine ringed recently and after the ringing, couple of my plug cables seem to be messing up which were both replaced. But after this, the car's idling is not as smooth as it used to be before the ringing. When if first start it in the morning, everything is just fine but when I throttle down to move the car, it hesitates then moves quite well and at times, it doesn't it just moves. After a while when engine has warmed up a little, during idling, the car starts pulsating like its going to die, infact it dies under heavy load like when A/C is on. I opened the bonet one day and I heard something that sounds like a spark coming from the plug in position 4(the plug closest to the A/C system). If its not the plug, then it has to be the nozzle and everytime I hear this faint spark-like sound, the car's rpm drops for about a fraction of a second and this pulsation happen after every 2-5seconds. The second issue is that - Ocassionally, My transmission system simply changes from drive to neutral by itself so that when i throttle to move, the engine simple revs up without any movement because the gear is in neutral then in about couple of seconds or less, it picks again by itself, engaging the gear and moving on. It has happened three times in the past three to four weeks and it happened once while i was in a traffic and the two other times while i was moving at the speed of a walking adult. Please I need ideas on what could be causing the two issues I specified. Thanks in advance

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First.. open your hood at night and look for that spark noise.. if a plug wire is broken or leaking you might see the spark.. Check to see if all the plugs are screwed in tight. Look for vacuum leaks.. hoses broken, dissconnected or missing.. look to make sure all wires to sensors are connected.. Any of the above could cause your rough running problem.. you said that you had the engine re-ringed. Possibly you should go back to the person that did that job and discuss the problem with him.. re-ringing requires that the engine be almost totally dismantled.. any number of things could be misaligned, loose, improperly reinstalled. Like the intake manifold could have large Vacuum leaks. RE: the Transmission problem.. if your trans is "slipping" when you are driving that is a different problem.. Check the fluid level, Trans slipping is a really bad and could be expensive problem. Check to see if they removed the engine to re-ring it if so that could impact your Trans Problem..

Posted on May 15, 2014

Testimonial: "Thanks so much desert racer. This time around, mechanic suggested we service the nozzle which I agreed. The nozzles were serviced and installed back and the the problem disappeared. As regards the gear, My mech told me the transmission fluid is low. It originally takes five litres however what was inside was about a litre or two and its also black. So it was drained out and dexron III was added. I hope this fixes the problem completely. Since the oil has been changed, I have not experience the gear slippage issue. Thanks so much once again."

  • desertracer May 16, 2014

    Kinda of interesting.. I have worked on cars and trucks for many years and have never heard of a "nozzel"..If your trans fluid was 4L Low.. It went somewhere..Where did it go?? I still suggest your problems were caused during the "re-Ring"



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Car stops moving in reverse gear

Sounds like the car is just slipping out of gear. Keep your hand on the shifter when you back up next time. See if you can feel the shifter move when the car comes out of gear. If the shifter moves up when it happens keep pressure on the shifter holding it back like you dont want it to move forward. And of course if the shifter moves back when it comes out of gear, put forward pressure on the shifter so it doesnt slip out. This might work for now but but i know i wouldnt want to spen 700 for that ****. Let me know how it goes.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Car reving up and down on its own 3 to 4 times, then sputtering and dying?

The previous solution to check the idle air contol is in the correct area but needs some clarification.
The idle control is accomplished by two parts: Throttle position sensor ( $35 at Autozone) and idle contol valve approx $190. I replaced the throttle position sensor about a week ago and it runs perfect
to date but am a skeptic after almost two years of dealer incompetance. I researched all the sensors and failure symptoms on the internet and the throttle position sensor failure symptoms matched mine
exactly. See _Position_Sensor

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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SOURCE: Starter wont engage ring gear.

eathier it needs shims or you have a bad flywheel sounds like its free spinning at times pull the starter an turn the ring gear make sure its not missing teeth if not you may need shims

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: transmission issues (I think)

Use a engine scanner to pull codes, If none it sounds like the lock-up torque converter may not be disengaging at idle. Or you have a idle air control valve or TPS going bad, then repair codes by replacing failed sensor or shift control solenoid as needed. If no codes are present your transmission could have a internal failure. It's also been know that oil transmission fluid in the system will have a higher fluid retention causing the 2nd gear solenoid to stick causing the transmission to stay in second till the line pressure rises and drops back to first with a hard shift. Keep me posted be glad to get your transmission running again

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: My car has a problem with reverse gear, forward

could be a bent selector or might just need to tighten it up

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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