Question about Cars & Trucks
Are you going by the dash gauge, or a thermometer in the coolant in the fill hole of the radiator? I don't trust dash gauges and an auto type thermometer is cheap. Do you see bubbles in the water? If so it could be a headgasket. Did you also replace the fan clutch? or does it have a electric fan?
Posted on May 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Let the engine cooldown,then open the bleed screw on on the thermostat house,do not remove just loosen----fill water in the radiator bottle slowly and watch for water coming out of the bleed screw----
sometimes the bleed screw is blocked due to anti-freeze-then take the screw off completely ,clean and replace----always make sure the engine is cool
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
Firstly, ensure you have the required 'mixture' of coolant/water (must have required coolant).
Second, I would recommend you re-test all the cooling system sensors again (make sure they're within specifications), in case a new one is faulty.
Third, ensure the new thermostat was of the correct temp setting (they all differ), so that it opens at the required time. Most cooling systems operate within 90 - 100degC.
Fourth, make sure the radiator (and associated hoses) aren't blocked.
If your temp gauge is reading higher than normal, but NOT in the danger zone...then this can be considered normal (especially if you've replaced with new components) and nothing to be concerned about.
However, if the temp gauge IS in the danger zone....then this suggests the coolant is not flowing through the cooling system properly.
If all above components test ok, then it's possible your water pump may not be pumping enough volume.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
Testimonial: "I appreciate your help...Maybe I should just relace the water pump, that would be the last thing that I would need to replace."
check to make sure fans are working for radiator. if not check coolant tempurature sensor, fuses, and relay. is all air out of coolant system!
Posted on Jul 07, 2010
Your cooling fan relays are controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM). What you are unplugging is probably the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT). The ECM will default to "fans on" if it loses the circuit to the ECT. (It loses it when you unplug it) This is why the fans come on when you unplug the connector. The engine might be overheating because the ECT may be malfunctioning and "lying" to the computer about what the actual engine temperature is. If this is the case, the ECM is not turning the fans on because it doesn't "think" it is hot enough to need them. Then again, you could have a faulty temperature gauge that is making you think the engine is overheating when it is not. (If it is boiling over, then it is OBVIOUSLY overheating and you can just disregard that last statement.)
Anyway, the only way to properly diagnose the cooling system on your vehicle is to access the live engine data and look to see what temperature the ECM is seing while you take an actual reading with an infrared thermometer or a pyrometer and compare the two. Yhe thermometer or prometer reading should be within about 5 degrees of what the ECM "thinks" the temperature is. If there is a larger error than this then the coolant temp sensor should be replaced. If the reading is within this range and the temperatur gauge reads hot when it is not, then the gauge should be replaced.
Since the fans come on when you unplug the sensor, you know that all the fan circuits are working and the ECM is capable of controlling them, so it almost has to be a computer INPUT problem, not an OUTPUT problem.
Posted on Feb 26, 2011
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