Question about Volvo Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I believe the previous solution is confusing your AC system with your cooling system. Trapped air in the coolant is unlikely to occur anyway.
Check rubber hoses around the intake. Look for loose clamps or collapsed hoses that can leak air into the intake bypassing the throttle; a vacuum leak.
If OK, locate the engine temperature sensor for the engine control system. (Look in a parts catalog or service manual for the car). It may be defective. I'm assuming from your OP that the Engine light is not staying on. If it does stay on, there may be a trouble code saved in the engine control computer.
Posted on Oct 20, 2008
SOURCE: Bleed cooling system
Assuming you have already filled your cooling system with the proper G12 coolant to the cross-hatch level, open the coolant overflow/fill bottle cap. Leave it off. Start the car and let it idle. Turn your heater on full hot and full fan speed. Let it come up to temp so the thermostat opens up and allows coolant to flow through your system. When the system burps, you'll see air bubbles show up in the overflow tank. Let it cycle a another time and then top off the coolant if needed. Then close up the cap and call it a day.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
If a valve is expose on the upper heater hose piping crack that open only when the engine is warmed up for at least 15 minutes. If no valve is seen you will need to loosen one of the heater hose clamps ever so slowly to let the air out. The process to loosen the clamp is not recommended unless you do this first..... When the engine is COLD loosen a hose clamp and remove the hose and put it back on. Thighten the hose clamp snug only. The start the engine to warm up. In about three minutes see if you can twist the hose to move on the fitting. If you can snug the clamo a lttle more and check again. You do not want the hose to come off if too loose. Now that the engine is warmed up for 10 to 15 minutes shut OFF the engine and barely loosen the same clamp 1/4 turn at a time until coolant trickles out. Listen carefully for air escaping too. Air pressure does built up only when the engine gets hot and the air pocket does not move when the engine was cold with the hose removed beforehand. If no air was released upon this proceedure you have a blockage in your system and flushing maybe the only other option using pressure instead forcing the coolant out. Get a can of coolant flush before the power flush proceedure. A radiator pressure tester can be used to power flush with an air fitting adapter installed in place of the guage
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
The generic method of bleeding air from the cooling system is to use a floor jack and raise the front of the car as high as poss, then fill the coolant recovery tank full and run the engine until it just starts to overheat, high end of normal zone on gauge, then shut the engine down and run cold water over the radiator core, this will self bleed the system and the coolant will be pulled from the recovery tank, repeat as necessary, never let the recovery tank run dry or more air will be pulled into the cooling systeml
Posted on May 18, 2010
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