Question about 2003 Ford Ranger Regular Cab
My 2003 ford ranger 3.0L with 106,000 kms won't accelerate past 40! It seems like it wants to shift but just won't. I don't have a tach so hard to say the RPMs but it is revving but won't shift or accelerate. Where do I start looking? Is this a transmission shifting problem or an electrical problem? There are no codes, no lights came on.
Not sure what you have determined the truck is doing
If the rpm flairs the trans is slipping & done
If it won't go over 40 mph the exhaust converter is damaged
Not much you can do,need professional help
Posted on May 14, 2014
Testimonial: "Thanks for the input Teddy. This is my first time using this site and perhaps did not offer all the proper info. It is an automatic trans, I was informed about a year ago (5000kms ago) there was a slight Trans seal leak. So I have kept an eye on the fluid level and smell, all has been fine never had to add fluid. I don't drive the truck a lot. Today I drove around a fair bit with the truck on and off all day....by supper time I took it out for yet one more errand maybe 5-10kms. On the way home...I left a set of lights it accelerated normally. When the speed reached just over 40km/h it just stayed at that speed....and started to "buck". Without having a tach on the dash I could not tell if it was over revving...it certainly did NOT sound like it. I had to ease up on the gas pedal to stop the bucking. If I kept it at 40km/h it was absolutely fine. So I put on my hazard lights and limped it the three kms home and parked it. I am on a Disability pension due to a Cancer diagnosis and money is tight. So I was hoping to get an idea of what the issue might be before taking it to a garage. I would hate to be taken advantage of because I have no idea. Thanks again for the help Steve"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The blinking overdrive button is telling u that a serious fault has occurred in the electronic controls or a mechanical fault such as excess slippage is occurring.
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
many of these trucks have a mazda trans in them, to remove these shifters you will need to remove the 4 phillips head screws from the corners of the trim around the shifter boot and pull it up out of your way. it's not necessary to remove the boot from the shifter, just lift it up for access to the top of the trans. at the base of the shifter on the top of the trans you will see a plate attached with torx head screws. remove all but 2 of them, now make sure the trans is in neutral and remove the last 2 screws and pull the shifter straight up. the shifter is now out leaving a big hole open on the top of the trans for dirt to fal into so put a wrag in it or screw a piece of cardboard to it. installation is the reverse. good luck
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.
Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)
1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.
Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.
This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)
Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)
Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.
The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.
When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.
Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.
This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,
Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.
Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)
Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')
2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.
Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.
If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.
I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
thottle positioning sensor? if trans has overdrive could be a lock up piece, dont remember name of it. there is a lucas oil product that might help. if it is the overdrive.
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
Band adjustment is very sensitive on these units, I set both adjustments at one turn. This is a 4 speed trans that has been converted to a 5 speed by turning on the od unit ( 1-2 shift ) in first gear.the 2-3 shift is busy because the od band is coming off causing the od unit to transfer back to 1:1 and the intermediate band is coming on . I have found that if the overdrive band is to loose it will release to fast causing a flare on the 2-3 shift bot not really affecting the 4-5 (overdrive) shift. So break both band adjustments loose and tighten the adjustment screw down and back off 1 turn the tighten jam nuts. Also the fluid level should be checked with the transmission warm ( 100 f , not hot, not cold) and the fluid should stream out of the check tube. Transgo makes a really nice vb kit that i use that will help these symptoms.
Posted on Jan 25, 2011
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