Question about 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Thank you for the input as far as your beliefs about it not being the torque converter as I was about to purchase one and have it installed. My question is what could cause this to be happening then? before I turn this engine over again and cause more damage that might have already occured in the fifty miles this second time around, I need to know what could possibly be causing the first crank and Main bearings to go as for sure now we know it wasn't a factory defective crank if the noise is starting again? Again thank you for your input in advance.

Posted by on

  • 2 more comments 
  • bernierfamil Jun 23, 2009

    As you may have already figured out I am new to getting help online. To clarify what is going on with my question above, I own a 1997 Ford F-150 two wheel drive long box with a 256 CID V-6 engine 4.2 liter. I bought it used as a second vehicle owned it two years and put about 10,000 miles on it in that time. The truck has 114,500 +/- miles on it. last summer I went to start it up and it wouldn't start, I had a local garage tow it to there shop and see what was up. They found nothing wrong, when they turned it over it fired up and ran. I got it back and drove it for about two months with no problems. One day I went to start it and again it bucked a couple times and turned over, it acted like it was flooded and after a short distance the truck cleared up and ran smooth. a while past and it happened again (all the while the truck sits for long periods in my yard as I only use it as a second vehicle) anyway this time it started rough and I noticed a tapping noise as though it had a lose lifter. thinking it was only a slight adjustment I drove the truck around for a short time as I was getting the money together to have it checked out and over this time the sound got louder so I parked it and it sat for about six months. I had a couple semi experienced mechanics check out the sound by starting the truck up for a few seconds to hear it and they said the sound was deeper then the lifters tapping, the mechanic that actually repaired my truck recently did another 1997 Ford engine but it was the 4.6 liter engine that was making the same sound and he felt it was a broken connecting rod. I got some money together and he tore into the engine of my truck and found that the connecting rod hadn't broke but bent. this was caused from the gasket blowing out and filling the cylinder port with antifreeze, hence (hydrolocking it ) and bending the connecting rod and the piston in its downward motion slapping the crank breaking off a small piece. After ordering all the parts ( new crank and bearings, entire engine gasket kit, new piston, all new rings, and connecting rod, as well as the transmission main seal because the mechanic didn't want it to leak after the newly rebuild engine was installed) the Mechanic cleaned the block and all the remaining parts, and reassembled the engine honing the cylinder walls etc. After only about three hundred or so miles the engine would make a clicking sound which sounded like the plate between the transmission and engine mainly on take offs on inclines (hills) as time went on about 350 to 400 miles the tapping began to get louder and louder. I brought it back to the Mechanic who did the job and he had me park the truck and he found that the crank could be pushed and pulled back and forth. The Engine came out a second time and he discovered that the crank main bearing brackets were worn right off. The crank and bearings had to be replaced again. In trying to get the crank warranteed due to the Auto Parts dealer telling us there have been a couple cranks returned due to factory defect and after about three weeks another was in the mail. The place the crank came from said the only way something like this could have happened was if the torque converter blew up? I have been told by the mechanic who is trying to resolve this problem that he really doesn't know that that is the problem because the truck runs and drives and he has told the manufactures of the crank this. I have had the truck on the road for two days (fifty miles maybe) since the second crank and bearings were installed and the noise is starting up again very faint but ultimately I know where this is going. Before I start this truck up again and cause any further damage, I need any and all possible reasons what could be causing this to help my Mechanic keep his sanity. A new rebuilt engine was my first gut instinct but going against that after the machine shop and two seperate mechanics believed that if the cause for the hydrolock up was obvious (the blown head gasket in the location of the bent connecting rod) then rebuilding the engine would be my best bet. I now have about $1,600.00 into this engine and really cannot afford to scratch this engine and buy another engine new, used or rebuilt. Really need solutions to repairing what is causing this issue with the cranks? Thank you and I am sorry for the book I wrote just wanted you guys to know the whole story. Thank you very much for your time.

  • bernierfamil Jun 24, 2009

    In reference to the above issue I am having with my 1997 Ford F-150 256 CID V-6 4.2 liter engine, The mechanic that did the work feels strongly (after close examination to the sound the truck is making) that the engine is not what is causing the noise. Even in idle parked in my driveway at alittle less then a 45 % grade, the truck makes that same noise as if something is hitting something else. If the truck is just idling in park the noise can't be heard, if you throttle it up the noise becomes ever present and is loud. He also tried to pull and push the crank in and out and says that seems to be fine, he took careful notice of how much play it had after reassembling and says there is no difference in the play the crank has now . I don't know enough about torque converters and flex plates to know if this is what is causing the noise now, but it appears the sound is comming from the particular area where the torque converter is located? I would like as many Ideas as you guys have on this problem or many that support each other in the same idea of what it could be. One other thing the mechanic said was that it wasn't the main bearing flange that was worn right off it was the actual main bearing that was worn right down on the first crank. and the last thing is the block was not line bored before the new crank was installed. the mechanic who did the work said he has never had to do this step unless he was doing a complete motor rebuild. he said in all the cranks he has installed he has never once had to have the blocks line bored? I tend to believe him. anyway any and all opinions are going to be taken seriously and if I get many of your experts to agree with eachother on this subject I will be more likely to try the solutions you have. Thank you for your time

  • Marvin
    Marvin May 11, 2010

    to much dialog.

  • Marvin
    Marvin May 11, 2010

    this is a 12 year old truck it could be anything.



1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Expert
  • 237 Answers

Your comment of "mainly on take offs on inclines" indicates excessive thrust on the crankshaft. If thrust is excessive it will travel longitudinally under load. This is verified by your other statements of "the crank could be pushed and pulled back and forth" and "the crank main bearing brackets were worn right off". These are not "brackets". One of the main bearings has a large outer flange type surface that acts against a machined surface on the crank to limit "thrust" or longitudinal travel. If the crank is improperly ground then it will quickly wear this bearing surface and present the problem you are describing.

Having been an engine and primarily transmission rebuilder for a number of years I can tell you that their claim of the torque converter "blowing up" and causing this problem is a load of bull.

Have your man carefully examine the crank for machine errors - all journals, but especially at the trust bearing, taking careful measurements and report any evidence of faulty crank to the machine shop responsible.

Every new (rebuilt) crank should always be carefully examined prior to install, bearing journals measured, bearings plasti-gauged, and thrust within limits.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

Trying to replace auto trans however when I try to tighten bell housing ,the engine locks.

auto transmission ' problem in the transmission /torque converter assembly
( pump drive not in alignment)
remove the torque converter from the flex plate and install properly onto the input shaft then fit the transmission to the engine
then pull the torque converter forward to fix to flex plate

Apr 08, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 2001 ford taurus lost all power while driving down the highway. Their were no sounds of breaking or shattering of the gears but when I got the car stopped I had no gears left. I lost every gear from...

these cars have a major issue with torque converters.... the torque converter input splines are softer than the splines on the input shaft and it sheers the teeth off of the input side of the torque converter, i have replaced a ton of these for this problem... usually when you replace the torque converter every thing goes back to normal, what you need to do is check the fluid level while the engine is running, if the fluid level is really high than that is what happened because the torque converter failed and drained all the fluid into the pan... to fix it the transmission will have to come out and the torque converter will need replaced if you drain all the fluid out of it and look down into the center of the torque converter with a flash light you will see the splines missing...

Jun 05, 2011 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I put in a new( used) trasmission in a 2005 chevy trailblzer and the trans is not catch ( car is not moving ) , what could be the problem?

when u installed transmission, did u also get torque converter with the transmission you purchased.
most times torque converter has to be matched especially with a used transmission.also need to make sure torque converter filled properly with fluid when you installed new transmission

Dec 14, 2010 | Chevrolet TrailBlazer EXT Cars & Trucks

3 Answers


I assume you have the tranny out and trying to install torque converter.Push converter in as you rotate it.It should line up with notch and lock in.

Nov 05, 2010 | Jeep Liberty Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 geo metro torque converter seal replacement how to remove seal and make sure we are removing only the seal.the car is a 1.3 l at.

This seal is located in the front of the transmission. Its called a front input shaft seal. You will need to drop the transmission and remove the torque converter. Once the converter is off if you look at the shaft protruding from the transmission just at the base of the input shaft you will see this seal.
you can rent a seal remover from you parts store, IE Autozone or Oriely's and rent the seal installer tool. This will insure that you do not damage the seal housing or the seal when installing the new one.
One word of advice would be to take the torque converter to a transmission shop and have it checked before reinstalling it. If it has a worn seal face or has a bad set of blades you would be money ahead to replace it while your doing it the first time and not have to pull it back apart 3 months later.

Jul 30, 2010 | 1997 Geo Metro

1 Answer

Transmision instalation

Did you make sure the torque converter was properly seated on the input shaft of the transmission. In oder to do this you need to spin the torque converter and push it into the transmission so as to spline the torque converter into the input shaft of the transmission. Be patient and keep spinning and pushing and it will spline up.

Jan 22, 2010 | 1997 Ford Expedition

3 Answers

Torque converter will not turn after transmission bell housing bolts are tighten...what is wrong?

When installing a torque converter there are two separate steps for two separate shafts with two different sets of splines.You must first turn the torque converter when on the input shafts until you feel Both steps engage one at a time.And with each step the torque converter will go deeper into the bell housing.To tell if you have caught each of the steps correctly you will be able to easily turn the torque converter,even when the trans and engine are pulled up tight.There will even be a gap between the flex plate and torque converter.What ever you do don't use the starter to get the torque converter all the way in.Take out the two bottom bolts of the trans and replace them with 1" longer ones.Then remove all the other bolts from the housing.Slide the trans as far back on those two bolts as you can until the torque converter will turn easily again,then turn while pushing in toward the trans until you feel the converter slip in that last step.Slide the trans back up to the engine and make sure the converter still spins freely,then finish your install.My first trans I literally broke the transmission housing by not fully seating the converter.Hope this helps?

Jan 01, 2010 | 1999 Ford Econoline

2 Answers

PO740, for my 98 Dodge5.9 van, has come on several times. i am suspecting that the solenoid is faulty. could I just purchase one and install it?

I did some surfing and found this. Hi everybody, listen the torque converter might not be bad, its could be the switch in the transmission might be the problem.I
I know on the chyrslers that its a plug on the front of the transmission the operates the torque converter.That plug is hooked up to the brain thats is in the transmission oil pan.You will have to take the pan off, then there are some bolts to take out and you will see the brain of the transmission.that works with the loc-up torque converter,and the brain works with making it go to the forward gears and reverse.Check it out and you will see.make sure you take the plug out first. Good luck Hope this works

Dec 07, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

Where is the transmission sensor on a 1997 dodge caravan?

Torque converter sensor: Far side of bellhousing next to the motor
Input speed sensor: On fronst side below cooler lines
Output speed sensor: Directely right of the input speed sensor near the shifter shaft
Range sensor: Mounted on top of valve body
Temp sensor: In the range sensor mounted on top of valve body

Feb 24, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

Ford aerostar automatic transmission repair

Lay it down flat and fill it about half way about 3-4 quarts. then install it onto the input shaft. Since the torque converter is part of the fluid drive system it will regulate its on its own when the rest of the fluid is added after the install. Hope this helps ~ Zach

Jun 15, 2008 | 1994 Ford Aerostar Extended

Not finding what you are looking for?
1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab Logo

142 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts


Level 3 Expert

81400 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22359 Answers

gerry bissi

Level 3 Expert

4376 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides