Question about 1989 Ford Aerostar Cargo

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Clutch slave cylinder remove it - 1989 Ford Aerostar Cargo

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: Removal of slave clutch master cylinder

The hydraulic cylinder is in the bell housing. When you separate the motor and tranny, you will see it as a unit with the throw-out bearing. Take the hydraulic line off before you start. You will have to bleed it when you are done.

Posted on Aug 13, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal

I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: fitted new clutch and slave cylinder in 2.5 v6

crawl up under the dashboard & look where the clutch pedal rod goes through the firewall. look for traces of brake fluid at the rubber boot of the rod. a clutch master cylinder normally will leak to the inside of the vehicle & down the firewall when it fails. Replace as required & bleed clutch system using the bleeder valve that should be on the slave asy.

Posted on Oct 15, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: installing the new clutch slave and master cylinder

FLUID LEAKS INSIDE ON SLAVE CYLINDER

Posted on Jan 05, 2010

  • 153 Answers

SOURCE: replacing a master and slave clutch cylinders on a

remove the battery and the battery tray,the fluid line and the two bolts that hold on the clutch master and remove.you may need to bleed the new one at the slave cylinder by having someone depress the pedal and letting the air out and tighten the line again before they release the pedal,but i think by pushing the pedal up and down a few times it will be ok. if the shifter wont go into gear or the car starts to move when only slightly moving the pedal of the floor then bleed it.

Posted on Feb 20, 2010

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Wont go into gear while driving has to be turned off then it will has new clutch


It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging when depressed. What is the year make and model? It most likely has a hydraulic clutch. Many vehicles have the clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing of the transmission. This means that the fluid line to the slave cylinder was removed to remove the transmission. If a new slave cylinder was installed when the clutch was replaced (this is a good idea to do when servicing a clutch with a bell housing internal slave cylinder) then the system will need to be bled to remove air from the system and allow the clutch disengagement to function properly.

Mar 07, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hi- 1995 jeep wrangler 2.5yj- clutch grinding won't go into gear - seems full of fluid but over filled it works good for a few months -does it again- repeated -works good-maybe master slave problem ?


1995 YJ if still stock all that is ONE PART, see FSM quote below.
is the fluid dropping, day by day, week by week???
y/n?
yes, then either the slave or mc are bad.
sometimes both can fail, (rust happens inside and is progressive)
what I do , is this. (if not wanting to change out both)
1: look at the MC, if it done leak down either side of the fire wall
it might be good (dont mean the piston seals good but its not leaking, so if fluid drops , (every week say) the the MC is ok
and for sure the slave leaks.

2: so where is your slave. have you looked,? (swaps happen)
most leak and can not be detected as that leak landed on the road to work.
for sure its just 2 parts, here, you know the clutch is ok.
because it works with fluid in the system and bled.
now ILL PASTE THE FSM words out of a real factory service manual.
they are clear.
FSM words, QUOTE:
CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINKAGE REMOVAL
The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only.
The linkage components cannot be
overhauled or serviced separately. The cylinders
and connecting line are sealed units. Also
note that removal/installation procedures for
right and left hand drive models are basically
the same. Only master cylinder location is different.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing (Fig.
9).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This is necessary to avoid undue spillage
during removal.
(7) Remove clutch master cylinder attaching nuts.
Note that one nut is accessible from engine compartment
and one nut is accessible from under instrument
panel (Figs. 10 and 11).
(8) Remove clip securing clutch master cylinder
push rod to pedal and slide push rod off pedal pin.
(9) Disconnect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(10) If pedal pin is equipped with bushing, inspect
condition of bushing and replace it if worn or damaged.
(11) Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through engine
compartment.

Dec 02, 2016 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 ford focus 2.0liter. clutch pedaL GOES TO FLOOR. brake master full of fluid.I clutch master or clutch slave cylinder bad?


a plastic master cyl !

master cyl is bypassing internally

slave cylinder is inside the gearbox bell housing
if its leaking .....gearbox out




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Nov 11, 2016 | 2004 Ford Focus

1 Answer

My friend had clutch replaced 6 mths oago and now clutch is not engaging is there anyway to check hydraulics without removing tranny?


Check clutch fluid level in clutch master cylinder for proper level. You can also watch the slave cylinder move at the transmission where it pushes on the clutch fork. The slave cylinder should move when the clutch pedal is depressed. If the cylinder does not move, suspect a defective master cylinder/slave cylinder/air in system that will require bleeding. If all moves, suspect tranny removal for inspection

Feb 22, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Where is the 1999 Saturn SL2 slave cylinder located?


on a manual transmission the Clutch Slave Cylinder is located on the drivers side front of the transmission. You can locate it by first finding the clutch master cylinder on the drivers side of the firewall. Then fallow the plastic line to the front of the transmission.

To remove the slave you will first twist it then pull it out of the transmission.

The clutch slave and mater cylinder are replaced as an assembly.

Oct 07, 2011 | 1999 Saturn SL

2 Answers

I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Oct 31, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

2 Answers

Having problems with the clutch in my 1998 Ford Ranger. There is no freeplay, and it is very difficult to shift. Do I need to adjust the clutch? If so, how do I adjust it?


The clutch is not adjustable,it is a fluid clutch.It has to be a leak,or the slave cylinder,and,or, the master cylinder are bad,It does not have to be leaking to be bad,but it is one of the two.Rate please,thank you.

Jul 12, 2010 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Clutch pedal goes to floor no preasure filled and bled slave cyl same result


Hi:
If you have bled the system, you are down to either having a bad clutch master cylinder, or a bad clutch slave cylinder. You could eliminate the slave cylinder by removing the line and capping it off, and if you have a firm pressure on the clutch pedal ( don;'t try to push it down, just check for pressure!) then your slave cylinder is bad. If you cap off the line, and bleed the system, and the pedal still has no pressure, then your clutch master cylinder is bad!

Apr 15, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

1996 f250 5 speed manual. Clutch must be to the floor before I can get it into gear. Is this normal?


No, your clutch is controlled by a slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. Check your clutch master cylinders fluid level first, if its high, your clutch is starting to wear down. Next, on the bottom of your transmission there will be an inspection cover, remove and check with a suitable flashlight if the clutch slave cylinder is leaking, if so, replace both clutch master cylinder and cslave cylinder. Stay away from slave cylinders that you have to build yourself such as those at autozone! Bleeding of these components will be required.

Oct 09, 2009 | 1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab

1 Answer

After replacing starter and removing slave cylinder, clutch fails to work


sounds like you have a air pocket or you fail to engage the slave cylinder push rod If you disconnected the slave cylinder from the hose proceed to bleed out the slave cylinder if you didn't take you slave cylinder and whit out disconnecting the hose and make sure the push rod is against the clutch push arm.

Apr 20, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

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