Question about Mazda Cars & Trucks
It sounds like something is drawing current 24 hours a day. When driving, the alternator keeps everything working. After you turn off the car, the battery is being drained by a short. The short can be anywhere, wiring harness, electrical connection points, etc. Have a mechanic check the current draw on the battery when the car is not running. It should draw a very small amount of current to keep the clock working. This will prove or disprove a electrical short. It is much harder to find the short. It can be expensive to fix if it takes hours to track down the problem. I would give the mechanic a time limit for diagnosing the problem to limit your out of pocket expense. There is nothing wrong with the battery or alternator. If they cannot find the problem within a reasonable amount of time. Trade in the car and buy another one. You do not want to spend thousands of dollars in repairs on a 12 year old car or a car with over 120,000 miles. I know you already put a lot of money in your car. Sometimes it is better to take your losses now than to keep putting more and more money into a car that is nearing the end of its useful life.
Posted on Jun 13, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Mazda 323 2002 Sting Immobilizer
Fcuk I got same problem with my Mazda 3 year 2004. Noone can help me at all !!! Even in Mazda they have no idea where is problem. For me it is at the moment only in cold weather. I cannot get throught immobilizer. After few turns it works, but not always (only when its bit warmer). I found out that if it is warmer, and I turn on ventilation for a while after it will let me go! Immobilizer starts flashing ... after few more minutes and turning key few times it will let me go !!! Please write me to firstname.lastname@example.org if you will know updates... I am desperate , cannot use my car in winter at all or cold weather. In summer works fine
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
When that light comes on, it is indicating charging system problem which could mean alternator not charging for one reason or another like loose belt, faulty alternator, or yes, bad battery or connection at battery, for example. First & easiest thing to do is check all your connections to battery, which you've probably done, and make sure they're tight & clean. Make sure belt driving alternator is good & tight, and in good shape. Now boost the vehicle to get it going & test voltage at battery, after you take cables off. My guess is in your case, the voltage will begin to go down, indicating a bad alternator, that will need to be replaced.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
I would have all the grounds checked. Sounds like it is not grounding properly. This will in turn not allow the battery to charge correctly and will make other electrical devices to operate incorrectly. For example the body ground if not good it will try to find another ground IE the shift cable. This is not designed to maintain a connection of amperage and will allow battery to die. Also will cause problem with cable and could fatigue it enough to break. Just check for good grounds on motor and body. Hope this helps. Good Luck.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
u either have a shorted cell in the battery or the system has a current draw like a glove box light being left on, try disconnecting the battery the next time you leave it, if it starts ok then u have a current draw and need to find the source of that draw.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
SOURCE: battery not charging
check the fuses in the POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX under the hood, There is a 75A in-line fuse and #11 - 15A fuse see if they are good.... test your alt. loom for opens, and cables .....hope this helps...GL
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
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