Question about 1995 Chevrolet Blazer

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When low on gas I made an abrupt stop, car would not start. found out that it had a firing problem, changed spark plugs, distributor, rotor still won't start this is very confusing. read the manuel dose not show control module but, fuses show 2 EMC fuses(oh hecked fuses), checked with hand held diagnostic gives no reading somebody help me please. This is a 1995 chevy blazer with a vortex engine, 2 wheel drive

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  • Contributor
  • 7 Answers

Try checking the fuel filter and pump. Easy fix is the filter of course but if that doesn't work, try the pump. It is located in the tank and can be checked by seeing if there is pressure in the line going into the TBI or injectors. It is supposed to be at a certain pressure rating and there is a way to do that with a valve but that is a little more technical.

Posted on May 14, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 Chevy K1500, fires but won't start

removed the dis cap then try to rotate the belt thuse turning belt see if there is any slack when rotor turns if there is slack or even slight hesitation while turning u need a timing chain & gear

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




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Posted on Aug 18, 2009

gh20s
  • 343 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 Chevy Blazer K5 5.7 engine: has engine ping

The temperature sensor is where I would start. If the sensor tell the computer that the engine is cold it will initiate the warm up mode which includes advancing the timing along with a rich fuel mixture. Unfortunately, there are many sensors that assist in controlling timing and fuel mixtures that it is difficult for me to give you a guaranteed solution.

Posted on May 27, 2010

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: how are the spark plugs wired up on a 1990 chevy

Make sure that there are no dis-connected wire connectors or vacuum lines, and the spark plug wires must be in the correct order, here is a firing order diagram for that engine and vehicle, and let me know if you need any help to understand this firing order diagram of if you require any further assistance.


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Posted on Sep 27, 2010

  • 137 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2001 chevy

misfires can be caused by faulty ignition components, but they can also stem from other components. Such as faulty injectors, or improperly timed or unseated valves. Sounds like you have touched on all of your ignition suspects.
Are there any codes present other than P0304, P0305 and P0306? If so they should help guide you in the right direction. If not, You might want to make sure your valves are seating and if so, go ahead and swap an injector from a misfiring hole with a good one from a hole with no misfire. (like switch #2 and #4 injectors for example) if the misfire moves to cyl 2, you know the injector is at fault.

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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Truck will not start


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very good but did you check that the no1 piston was on tdc firing before you replaced the distributor . You may be 180degrees out on the firing order.

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I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

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I have a 1993 chev pick-up v6 4.3, i just installed new spark plugs,new plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button.All plug wires are back in the right position,and i used the firing order 1-6-5-4-3-2...


This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).



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Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

Sep 14, 2011 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

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1989 chevy truck, 5.7...will not start....no fire at spark plugs, Bat. voltage at ignition coil and to ignition module, tested ignition coil (OK), new distributor and rotor, no change. Used starting fluid...


Hi, I believe there is a computer problem. If possible check codes for no start condition. if you know the no.#1 cylinder at TDC (Top Dead Center) on engine then you will know no#1 distributor is. Good luck.

Jun 14, 2011 | 1989 Chevrolet C1500

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You may have got the spark plug wires out of sequence.
Reseat the coil wire going to the center of the distributor cap Check the spark plug wires at the distributor against the firing order as follows:
The spark plug firing order is 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE The engine cylinders / spark plugs are numbered :
firewall 3 - 6 2 - 5 1 - 4 front
Best wishes,
TF

Jun 03, 2011 | 1985 Ford Ranger

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Motor turns over but will not start, seems to be getting gas, & spark


I don't have enough info to give you a specific answer so I've listed a bunch of possible problem that could cause your engine to roll over but not start.
Check the battery and connections, a weak battery or bad connections can cause a weak spark and stop the engine from firing.
Fuel pump or fuel filter, low gas pressure can cause to lean of a air/fuel mixture for the engine to start.
Bad gas, old gas or water in the gas can stop the engine from firing.
Bad or fouled spark plugs, could be caused by bad gas.
Ignition wiring problems, can cause weak or unreliable spark.
Bad, poorly connected or misconnected spark plug wires. Even 2 wire out of order can stop the engine from firing.
Oily spark plug wires, can cause the spark to fire at the wrong cylinder or misfire.
Worn, damaged or wet ignition components.

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Your ignition circuit is faulty- it's probably the ignition switch itself that is defective. The misfire is that the distributor cap has a crack in it and the spark is directed to a particular plug wire and the spark has found its way to a non designated plug wire. It wouldn't be the coil, change the rotor and distributor cap be sure to mark your plug wires and reinsert into the proper hole in the distributor cap. Good Luck, Jim

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