Question about 1999 Volkswagen Passat
Replaced my sensor, car still does not start and can't reset my error code 1336
Bring engine to where #1 Piston is at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke [spark plugs should all be removed because you may have to hand turn the engine]. Check and make sure both valves are closed and the cam is set to open the intake valve on the next movement of the crankshaft which will be the intake stroke. The cam shaft has to open the intake valve to take in air and fuel on this stroke. When the intake stroke is completed and the engine starts back up the intake valve should close and the cam should not be touching any lifter in a way to open it. Both valves stay closed on this stroke which is of course the compression stroke. At TDC or a few degrees below depending on your engine, some fire at 3 or 4 degrees below TDC., The distributor should be firing or in a position to fire, thus igniting the fuel for the power stroke. Again the cam shaft should be off all lifters. Before there were sensors we used the sensors in our heads. If the engine is good after doing this procedure , in that, the cam opens the proper valve at the proper time and closes at the proper time and the ignition is set to fire at TDC or a few degrees BTDC then there is something wrong with the cam position sensor or some have a crankshaft sensor also. You might check it also. If it is faulty it will be telling the computer it is at the wrong position even if the cam sensor is telling it right the two sensors have to synchronize or the computer cannot let the engine start. i.e. The crankshaft is telling the computer it is coming up on the exhaust stroke and the cam shaft sensor is telling it that it is on the TDC of the intake stroke it want let anything happen. If the cam is not where it is suppose to be when you turn it up to TDC, say is is holding a valve open then you have a problem with your timing. In this case check your timing chain and or gears for the proper timing. Timing gears will usually have two dots on either side of the female gear and one dot on the male gear. Put these together accordingly and on the proper stroke which should be the only way it will go. Timing chains usually are marked similar. If you have to move the timing make sure you have the engine at TDC ready to start down on the intake stroke. You can put your thumb over the spark plug hole and feel the compression push on it to tell which stroke it is on. Place your thumb on the spark plug hole and turn the engine with the starter a time or two then you can anticipate when the next compression stroke is coming and stop and turn it by hand until it reaches TDC. Just as is it starts back down stop you are there.The pistons are set to begin the cycle and the crank is the proper position therefore the cam should be also. If all this is procedure checks out and you are sure of your cam sensor and computer then the only thing I can think of is the crankshaft sensor, or possible fuel solenoid or ignition problems. It\'s so simple it only takes O2, fuel and fire to run one but if they are not there at the right time nothing works. I realize this is lengthy and I may have included things that you already know but not knowing you level of expertise I had to include all of it so forgive me if I have insulted your intelligence in any way. I just got an email from fix-ya asking me to help you. We used to have to do all this and set the lash on the valve lifters and adjust the carburetor, set the choke and used a timing light which was plugged into #1 plug and was a strobe light and we marked the crankshaft and moved the distributor around until the marks lined up with the strobe light. When we got that timed and bolted back down it didn\'t have any choice but to start. If it was stubborn we shot the either to it and that would fire it up for sure.
Again the above mentioned procedure is fool proof because you are relying on some sensor but on your own senses which are a lot better.Set it up like I mentioned and if a sensor says different then it is faulty.
If I can be of any further assistance please feel free to contact me.
Col Dana Gillespie
Posted on May 14, 2014
First does the camshaft turn as the timing belt should be replaced at 100k miles if camshaft is turning check crank shaft position sensor as that may be bad
Posted on May 14, 2014
Try disconnecting your battery for a few minutes and then reconnect and see what happens after you try to remove the error code
Posted on May 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
when you are looking at the engine pull off the plastic cover on top then the front cover that covers you timing belt there is a wire harness tha goes right to it in the left upper coner two ten mil bolts and it comes off careful not to drop bolts down in belt that could be bad. it is that easy
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
take it back to shop because.some of the 2.8 v6 passat had 2 cam sensors.one for right bank and one for left bank.if shop already replace them.they need to remove code from computer.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
A code P0011 refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's PCM (powertrain control module, also called an ECM). That consists of a few different components but the P0011 DTC specifically refers to the camshaft (cam) timing. In this case, if the cam timing is above a set limit (over-advanced), the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. The "A" camshaft is either the intake, left, or front camshaft.
Most likely a P0011 DTC will result in one of the following: hard starting, poor idle, and/or stalling. There are potentially other symptoms as well. Of course, when trouble codes are set, the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, a.k.a. the check engine light) illuminates.
A P0011 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:
Incorrect camshaft timingWiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid systemContinuous oil flow to VCT piston chamberFailed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)
This DTC code is a result of a mechanical fault of the VCT unit or related components, so there is no need for electrical diagnosis. Refer to vehicle specific repair manual to perform component tests for the VCT unit. Notes: Dealer techs have advanced tools and the ability to follow detailed troubleshooting steps, including the ability to test components using a scan tool.
Posted on Mar 28, 2012
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