When I start the car "cold" the cooling fans come on then start an on and off cycle "heat a/c and defroster are all off. engine rpm's jump from an idle of 1000 to 4000 up and down constantly, the transmission won't shift past second gear unless i finagle the throttle. while driving steady for about a mile, if I depress the throttle, nothing happens, i have to let off completely then hit the throttle again to accelerate. I have replaced the Cat. converter, the TPS and The IAC motors. After I did that the ck engine light came on for a day then went off and still getting code for the TPS. When the car gets to normal opperating temps it is undrivable. On occasion the sucerity light comes on for no reason but the car still starts and on other occasions the radio shuts off and has locked displayed on the screen. I believe it must be the ECM. If not what could it be.
Bad ground on a wiring harness, check all your ground connections around the engine and under the car on the frame. any wire that is attached to the engine or frame, make sure all is clean and tight. usually a bad ground somewhere will make em go haywire like that. if all is well then have the ecm checked.
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If the vehicle is equipped with functional AC and the dash control panel is set on defrost, this will cause the AC compressor to cycle and the fan will come on. Turn the dash control to floor and see if fan comes on when cold outside. It should only come on when engine is at operating temperature and commanded to come on by the computer
There are several things which come to mind. You have 2 complaints. A gas smell and a cold blooded vehicle.
Starting with the temperature problem. My initial concern is whether the thermostat is weak, but also that the automatic controls may be inoperable and working against you. The car is suppose to go into a temporary "cold start routine" which increases the RPM and makes the fuel rich. (This could contribute to the gas smell)
After the Temperature sensor and O2 sensors warm up, the idle is suppose to drop and the fuel mix should lean out. If the engine remains at high idle, the water pump will work faster with the engine spinning faster. Sometimes there is not a direct 1 to 1 ratio between the heat generated by the motor and the RPM versus the cooling produced. An idling engine may warm up faster than an engine running at higher RPM.
Another problem may be the Defroster setting. There are Thermal switches which are suppose to cut off the Electric Radiator cooling fans. When the Defroster is activated, some cars are built to spin the A/C compressor in the Winter. But the Electric Radiator cooling fans may also switch on as part of the A/C system. This would super cool the radiator at a time when you least want it. Check to see if the cooling fans are activating when the Defroster is turned on.
There can be 2 Temperature switches in your car. One would send the signal to kick out the "cold start routine" and the other would work the guages or indicator lights.
The O2 sensors can have heaters in them or they can just be slow. If you leave the engine idling like you do, they could foul out and be sluggish to warm up.
If running the Temperature at 80 degrees causes an additional 5 minutes of warm-up time, you may be better off setting it for say 72 and having it work sooner.
The thermal sensors are not that expensive. Work on a cold engine when changing them. Note what I said about your rich fuel mix contributing to the smell.
Many engine control system faults can cause the radiator cooling fan to come on and run non-stop. Also, if your A/C is on or if you have your heating and cooling controls in DEFROST mode, this can cause the radiator cooling fan to come on (normal operation). Or there could be a cooling fan circuit malfunction (like a stuck relay) causing this to happen.
Check to see what mode your climate controls are in. If the climate controls are not in A/C or DEFROST modes, then you should have your engine control system properly diagnosed to determine the cause of the radiator fan being on continuously.
Also, if the Check Engine light is on, this is a clue that the engine control system is malfunctioning.
I would suspect a stuck cooling fan relay. Your going to have to locate the malfunction to get the operation that you seek. Reference owners manual for lcoation of the cooling fan relay and try switching it out.
I've only experienced it a few times where the electric cooling fans were stuck on all the time. Its even worse if your car has air conditioning (theres 2 fans). They are behind the rad, and should cycle from off when cold, and speed up when engine warms up. Second fan comes on only with A/C on (which means in defrost mode also). The only other thing is make sure your coolant strength is at least -30o. Straight water or weak coolant strength will not dissipate heat well. When you flushed the heater hoses, did you actually go directly in and out of the heater core? They are known for plugging up, and not a fun job to replace.
Heater control valve malfunction will not cause engine to overheat unless coolant is leaking externally...Overheating going down the road can be the result of a few different things...Partly clogged radiator...Insufficient air flow due to possible fan problem...External coolant leak...Make sure fans are operting properly and have cooling system pressure tested for leaks...Gaining and losing heat on the inside of the vehicle usually means system is low on coolant but you must find out where coolant is going
no fan comes on when engine cold start up .but it will come on when you turn on air conditioning or defrost on .if engine idling a while when temp get 190 degree the fan will kick on.if over heating you got air in system .wait until cools check coolant add more .crank engine let it idle few. minutes when start warming up turn off engine wait a while before removing radiator cap so you wont get scald.add more coolant .crank it again starting warming up turn off engine wait a while .add coolant .keep doing this procedure until your coolant stop dropping off .if you do this more than 6 times you got a leak some where.check crank level for signs.if oil level higher than normal.if everything looking good.when engine cool make sure add coolant to over flow jug cold level mark.
Are we talking about the cooling fans for the engine and AC condenser?? Only one cooling fan will cycle on and off during normal operation. The main cooling fan will cycle on and off as needed for cooling the engine. If you turn on the AC or select a defrost mode on your climate control then the 2nd additional fan will run usually continuously in order to condense the freon in your AC system for cooling the interior of your car and in defrost mode it helps to reduce interior moisture on the glass (defog/ defrost). If no fan comes on at any time whether the engine is hot or cold or whether you turn on the AC or not and you have already replaced a cooling fan relay and checked related fuses then either the fan /s are bad or you dont have power in or out of the fan circuit which consists of several components that would need to be checked. Let us know if you find anything else or have additional questions.
when you first start the vehicle the fans whill cycle automatically. when the engine reaches temp the fans should kick on if they don't it is most like that you have either a weak relay or a loose wire very seldom would it be a severe ecm malfunction. please rate this solution