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Audi a4 19 tdi takes long to start n makes clouds of black smoke what can b da problem

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 1,140 Answers

Pull out the spark plugs and check for oil on the spark plugs. If you do have oil on the spark plugs, the valve seals are leaking. The top of the engine has to be taken apart to repair it. If this is not the problem, then the oil rings on the pistons are worn out and leaking oil into the combustion chamber. This is a very expensive repair.

Posted on Jun 13, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Blue smoke is generally gas. I only have the option to post solution, but if it's fuel injected (I assume that new it is) then you may have a O ring or a seal in the injection unit that is letting gas leak by. Too much gas = blue smoke, so it is running rich. If it is a n injector it can be a pain and expensive to fix, if by a miracle that thing has a carb (I doubt it) you can adjust the mixture down. I'd take it and have the code reads, maybe a fuel sensor is going bad, it may read and tell you which injector is leaking, not holding proper vacuum pressure. Most auto parts stores can run the codes the for free. I'd check that, the good news is they can run a long time like that so you can take time and figure out when, how, and if your fix it. Don't much much about Saabs in general but hopefully ths points you in the right direction. This is common among fuel injected vehicles as they get older, not bad problem if the car runs fine, but can kill you on emission testing (if you have to pass them). The reason it stops smoking is either 1. It lets fuel drip past and you burn it while starting the car and it comes out in the puff of blue smoke, 2. It seals itself under pressure, so when you shut it off it leaks and you get puff on a cold start or 3. It is leaking fulltime but with the exhaust being pushed out there is enough exhaust mixing with you that you can't notice it while driving. Good luck with it!

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • 225 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 VW tdi black smoke while accelerating

The only sensible way forward is to get a list of fault codes from the onboard diagnostic system and take it from there. You could either go to a VW dealer, or if you are technically minded you could buy a £15 interface cable, download some free "VAG diagnostic software" and run it on a portable computer.
There are lots of possible reasons for the problem and guessing will not really help. If these suggestions turn out to be sound, please give my reply a "Fixya!"rating, If they do not, please hold off rating and add a comment with more details so I can try to help you further. Cheers, D

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

  • 324 Answers

SOURCE: Audi 2001 A4 (B6)TDI SE 130BHP

you need ot do a tune up, these problems are ussually associated with bad wires and coil packs...

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

  • 2509 Answers


First have a compression check done on it. It could be rings or valves. Also if that does not show any problems it is worth paying for a diagnostic as it may save you money in the long run, ( if it is running ok with no obvious errors my guess would be rings, particularly if it is very high mileage)
Have you had an mot emission test done recently?
I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.
I appreciate your vote if you appreciate my reply.

Posted on Feb 25, 2011

  • 1874 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2001 audi

In your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in "limp home" mode!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.

Posted on Apr 20, 2011

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