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Doesn't have a EGR valve ! Has Camshaft Actuator System .
Camshaft Actuator System Description
The camshaft position (CMP) actuator system is used for a variety of engine performance enhancements. These enhancements include lower emission output through exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) control, a wider engine torque range, improved gas mileage, and improved engine idle stability. The CMP actuator system accomplishes this by controlling the amount of intake and exhaust valve overlap. For the 6.0 liter (LY6, L76) and the 6.2 liter (L92) engine, the Park position for the CMP actuator and camshaft is 8.5 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) or 17 crankshaft degrees BTDC. The engine control module (ECM) can only command the CMP actuator to retard the valve timing from the Park position or advance the valve timing back to the Park position. The total range of valve timing authority is 31 degrees camshaft rotation, or 62 degrees of crankshaft rotation. The control range is from the Park position of 8.5 degrees camshaft or 17 degrees crankshaft BTDC, to 22.5 degrees camshaft or 45 degrees crankshaft after top dead center (ATDC).
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Trouble
Your cam timing timing is off and the sensor is fine. They are very
simple sensors...it's just a magnet...and magnets don't go bad. Check
Incorrect allocation means that the camshaft isnt where the computor
thinks it should be at any given time. This could be casued by the base
engine timing being off by a tooth or by a problem in the camshaft
P0012 Camshaft A: Advance Setpoint not Reached
The code P0012 can be set by the following concerns: Faulty cam adjuster, Faulty cam adjuster solenoid, Low oil pressure, Sludged oil passages and Sticky camshaft.
The variable cam timing uses engine oil pressure diverted to the adjuster mechanism by a solenoid duty cycled by the PCM. Low oil pressure or severe oil sludging can affect camshaft timing operation. Always check oil level and condition when camshaft adjustment codes are present.
Using a full function Volkswagen compatible scan tool enter address word 01 (Engine). Function 08 (Read Measuring Value Blocks) and Display Group 091 (Power Enhancement Camshaft Adjustment).
Observe the 4th display field "Active Camshaft Adjustment Angle" With the engine at idle. The 4th display field should read between -3.0 to +6.0 degrees KW if the camshaft is in the normal unadvanced position. Any other reading at idle indicates that the camshaft is shifted from the normal unadvanced position
Accelerate the vehicle from a standstill in 1st gear using wide-open throttle and observe the display in field 4 again. Under heavy acceleration the display should read between +16.0 to +25.0 degrees KW. This indicates that the camshaft has shifted to the full advance position.
If the display in field 4 does not change from the values in test step 2 or if the display changes but does not reach a minimum of +16.0 degrees KW (i.e. between +6.0 and +16.0 degrees KW), the camshaft timing adjuster mechanism is not advancing the camshaft.
Failure to advance the camshaft could be caused by a faulty cam adjuster, a faulty cam adjuster solenoid, low oil pressure, sludged oil passages, or a sticky camshaft.
Hope this helps (remember to rating this free answer and leave ue some testimonial comment)
1. Align the crankshaft timing marks on the flywheel / gearbox
2. Remove the valve cover 3. Lock the camshaft
4. Fit the injection pump locking pin
5. Loosen the camshaft gearwheel bolt, 180 degrees. Use a wrench to counter-hold 6. Loosen the camshaft gearwheel while holding it in place
7. Fit the timing belt in the sequence as shown in the below figure: a - b - c - d - e - f - g
8. Fit the timing belt and camshaft gearwheel together 9. Turn the tensioner clockwise to align both marks
10. Tighten the large bolt on the tensioner to a torque of 20 Nm 11. Check for correct fit 12. Lock the camshaft. Tighten the camshaft gearwheel bolts: 45 Nm. Use a wrench to counter-hold 13. Remove helping tools 14. Turn the engine two rotations by hand 15. Repeat the procedure if required 16. Fit the vacuum pump 17. Refit the crankshaft pulley. Tighten torque: 20 Nm + 20 degrees 18. Fit the timing belt cover 19. Refit the valve cover 20. Fit the ancillary drive belt 21. Refit the inlet air manifold hoses 22. Check the injection timing
this is an easy one to time. the timing mark for the crank is 0 degrees-do not attempt to tum crank if cam timing is out. there is no distributor on this engine-it is advanced with your intake camshaft. The intake camshaft is the only tricky part to time. Be very careful because at 2500 rpm this cam actually moves forward via cam advance solenoid. It will hit your crank if not timed properly! so with your crank at o degrees-camshafts out of head if you need to turn engine to line up crank-on the exhaust cam(your left)behind the gear(on flange) there will be a hole big enough to put a small punch in that will line up with the top of the deck surface on the outer side(to the left). Now on your intake cam(your right) it will be just the opposite. the hole on the back side of the gear flange will line up on the right with the to p the deck surface. once in line hold intake cam and turn the gear(advancer) all the way to the right)-very important. You will have to start with you intake(put chain on) then line up your exhaust and install timing chain tensioner. always turn engine 360 degrees and recheck before you proceed. At least your at top dead center and you can visually see the lobes on both cams mostly straight up. hope I have been helpful.
You could check with the AA. Personally I feel it unlikely their vehicles were of a different spec, unlike the Post Office and Royal Mail vehicles of earlier times that were ordered in far greater numbers.
Diesel engine pistons often protrude at tdc and sometimes the head gaskets are of a selective thickness to ensure the right piston/head clearance. Sometimes the pistons are of selective heights and sometimes everything is selective. When problems arise it is well not to take anything for granted and measure everything at least twice and add them to sketches in order to clarify what is happening.
When fitting a new head and/or valves or simply having the head resurfaced it is important to ensure the valves are a sufficient distance below the head face to avoid piston to valve contact. Sometimes it is necessary to cut the valve seats considerably to achieve this. When resurfacing a head and removing more than three or four thou, the valve seats shoul be cut by a similar amount.
Once you know the head is ready and assembled it would be well to measure the distance the valves open and compare it with specs to roughly decide whether the camshaft is correct. If the tappets or lifters are hydraulic it is important to fit them empty and ignore the instructions to prime them with oil. If the valve clearances are shim set then select the correct shims for the upper or wide end of the tolerance.
Engines are usually timed at tdc, though not all. If your engine is timed at tdc I suggest you temporarily fit the head and time it by instinct - valves of No 4 in the centre of overlap and No 4 piston at tdc, or similar...
If the cam and/or the cam wheel is correct the official timing marks will either be almost aligned or about 180 degrees out and the marks should be safe to use. With a valve timing diagram and a degree disc the check could be more accurate.
If the timing marks are a long way off either something is wrong with the cam and/or wheel or the engine isn't timed at tdc...
This can be checked by instinct timing and then turning the crank carefully to bring the marks into alignment, or not as the case might be.
chances of someone putting a performance cam in a vw 2.0 are slim to none. The engine has zero tolerance hydralic valves and thus any extra travel will lead to engine failure. Add to that a 13 year old car and unless your going to put in all new bearings, rings, etc., do yourself a favor and put that puppy in the trash.
If you can't find specs on this in a rebuild manual, you will need a dial indicator. find tdc on crankshaft, with #1 piston at top of stroke. Find exact point where #1cyl intake lobe on cam is 180 degrees from full open position. It is likely that you will find that there are alignment markings that will line up with reference points on block & head after you do this. The cam reference may be off by a couple of degrees, depending upon if the cam is intended to be installed "straight up" or a few degrees advanced.