Question about 2004 Mercury Montery
Of all the things I have fixed on different vehicles over the years this by far is one of the biggest pains in the rear I have ever had to deal with. I am assuming it is either the driver or passenger side. I have had to deal with the front driver side a couple times.
Due to how much a pain the project is I highly recomend you apply power and test the motor this way prior to pulling it out.
That is done simply by unplugging the motor at the harness in the corner of the door. Applying the positive and negative one way will raise the window and the other way will lower it. If this works it's a wiring or switch issue and not the motor. And trust me, you would rather deal with a switch or wiring then remove the motor.
If your sure it's the motor here's what you'll need tool wise.
Basic screw driver set. Something which you can cut of pop rivets.
A dremel rotary tool or similar. Basic screw driver set.
Basic socket set. I don't remember the sizes for sure but I think you will need 8 - 12 mm. Pop rivet gun(if desired will explain in a minute).
Needle nose pliers. Adjustable pliers.
Basic wrench set 8-12 mm(will explain use shortly).
A second person. A cup, ziploc type bag, box or container for screws and loose parts.
1st remove the cover behind the side mirror. Squeeze and pull.
This is actually pretty simple.
2nd. remove the screws which hold the window motor and power mirror control panel to door arm rest.
3rd. pull the power window mirror control panel off. Then unplug the connectors. 4th remove the screws, and nuts which hold the cover to the door. 5th remove the screws holding the arm rest mount to the door. 6th remove the foam cover. If your careful you won't need to reglue.
This is where it gets fun.
7th remove the bolts on the bottom corners of the door. These hold the window guide. 8th remove(very carefully as not to bend) the piece next to the window on the outisde. You might have to pull the mirror(which is easy at this point). 9th remove the window guide.
Know comes the fun.....
I don't know that there is a great way to do this but here is my suggestion.
1st cut the pop rivets(rotary tool) which hold the motor to the door frame(be very careful) you only need to put a few notches in the head of the rivet then you can break it with a screwdriver.
This is the worst part, removing the window from the motor assembly.
There are two 'discs' one at the front the other rear of the regulator.
You need to break the screws which hold it all togethor. Try not to break the discs. This will probably require a helper to move the window into better positions. Once those are broken the window will pull out(carefully). At this point you should also be able to manuever the motor out.
Pop rivets and guns are relatively simple and cheap. But another option is appropriate sized bolts and nuts. If this is the route you take for holding everything I recommend using threaded rod, and putting both lock washers as well as a holding agent such as loc tite on.
It's not an impossible job. But, do not try it if you don't have at least a full day to fight it. In my case the motor was still somewhat functional and I was able to move the window some which was a huge help.
I think I was also able to seperate the motor from the regulator while it was in the door. This allowed me to pull out the window and regulator(minus the motor) but aftermarket assemblies very some so it may not be possible for yourself.
Best of luck.
Posted on May 14, 2014
You will have to remove the interior door panel, look around the sides and bottom edge for any screws , remove these , there will also be screws holding on the door handle , door pocket etc ,once you have removed all visable screws gently pull from the bottom of the panel until it comes away from the door , there are push on studs that will pull apart as the panel comes away carefully work your way along bottom edge and up both sides evenly ,when the panel is completely loose you will have to lift it up and out of the window seal/trim lift away and remove any wiring connectors ,once the panel is out of the way there will be a plastic film covering the door ,gently pull this away, dont panic if it splits as can use gaffer tape when refitting to hold it together, now you will be able to see into the door and will see the window motor mechanism , you will need to lower window by temporarily connecting the window switch, as need to dismantle the window glass from the window mechanism gently lower the glass to the bottom of the door , now you can unbolt the motor usually 3 bolts ,once mechanism is completely disconnected you can then remove from inside door taking care not to damage the window glass ,refirring is the reverse ,good luck
Posted on May 13, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: POWER WINDOW 91 MERCURY GRAND
You have the ribbit on type,they have to be cut off to remove or drilled out.This should be done by a professional as these are dangerous and can take off you fingers if you dont know what your doing.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
Actually, if you look under the dash board, near the steering column, there should be a box that has the code printed on it.
Posted on Jun 14, 2010
PO 300 is multiple misfires detected
PO 301, 304, 305, 306 are misfires in cylinders 1,4,5,&6
PO 053 is HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Resistance
PO 106 is MAP/BARO CKT Range / Perf
PO 316 is Misfire detected 1st 1000 Revs.
On a misfire, I usually push towards the spark plugs, plug wires, and coil packs / distributor coil.
You have PO 106 and PO 053 that need to be inquired about at nearest AutoZone.
They can give you an idea as to what is the problem on these.
Did a MAP sensor **** out and cause all the misfires ?
Did a misfire cause the MAP sensor error?
You see what I'm saying ?...Something caused all the misfires...thinking MAP...but not that familiar with the function of the MAP.
Hope this helps...
Posted on Aug 13, 2011
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