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To open the hood:
1. Pull the hood release handle
inside the vehicle. It is on the
lower left side of the instrument
2. Go to the front of the vehicle and
move the secondary hood
release lever toward the right
side of the vehicle.
3. Lift the hood.
To close the hood:
Before closing the hood, be sure all
filler caps are on properly. Then,
bring the hood from full open to
within 152 mm (6 in) of the closed
position. Pause, then push the front
center of the hood with a swift, fi
This shows you how to take the hood off, the hinges, I am not sure how to replace those since my online resources doesn't cover that portion of body work. The diagram seems to show that the hinge goes into the firewall, so if you want you might have to cut into the firewall, but this is more of a salvage yard procedure.
I would look at the hood lift support more closely to see if you can indeed replace it.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the hood-to-hinge mounting
NOTE: It is highly recommended that you have at least one assistant helping during this operation.
Open the hood.
Matchmark the hood-to-hinge position.
Disconnect any electrical wire harness plugs.
Have you're assistant(s) support the weight of the hood.
Remove the hood-to-hinge bolts and lift the hood off of the hinges.
Installation is the reverse of the removal. Loosely install the hood and align the matchmarks. Tighten the bolts securely. Before removing the hood, matchmark the hood hinge to the hood
If equipped, disconnect the hood light wire harness plug . . .
. . . along with any ground straps
While an assistant holds the hood, remove the hinge-to-hood attaching bolts
Faster and safer to drop the whole unit from the bottom with the cradle. Replace the supercharger snout bearing and seal before you install the replacement engine and the supercharger belt. Also replace the boost valve to your transmission just to ensure your getting the proper transmission line pressure throughout your transmission.
Thank you for using fixya and be safe
Remove about 2⁄3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a clean syringe or baster type utensil.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Matchmark the relationship of the wheel to the axle flange. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Reinstall two lug nuts to retain the rotor.
Unfasten the bolt and washer attaching the cable support bracket to the caliper body assembly. It is not necessary to disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper parking brake lever or disconnect the brake hose unless the caliper is to be completely removed from the vehicle. Freeing the cable support bracket allows enough flexibility in the cable to pivot the caliper up and down and remove the shoe and lining.
Remove the sleeve bolt.
Pivot the caliper body assembly up. Do not completely remove the caliper assembly body.
Remove the outboard and inboard shoe and linings (pads) from the caliper support.
Remove the two pad clips from the caliper support.
Bottom the piston assembly into the caliper bore. Use a suitable spanner-type tool in the piston slot to turn the piston assembly and thread it into the caliper body assembly.
After bottoming the piston, lift the inner edge of the boot next to the piston assembly and press out any trapped air. The boot must lie flat. Make sure the slots in the end of the piston are positioned correctly before pivoting the caliper body assembly down over the shoe and lining in the caliper support. Use a suitable spanner-type tool in the piston slots to turn the piston as necessary.
NOTE: Whenever installing new pads, install new pad clips. These should be provided in the disc pad kit.
Install the two pad clips in the caliper support.
Install the outboard and inboard shoe and lining in the caliper support. The wear sensor is on the outboard pad. The sensor is positioned downward at the leading edge of the rotor during forward wheel rotation. Hold the metal shoe edge against the spring end of the clips in the caliper support. Push the shoe in toward the hub, bending the spring ends slightly, and engage the shoe notches with the support abutments.
Pivot the caliper body assembly down over the shoe and lining assembly. Be careful not to damage the piston boot on the inboard. Compress the sleeve boot by hand as the caliper body moves into position to prevent boot damage.
After the caliper body is in position, recheck the installation of the pad clips. If necessary, use a small prytool to re-seat or center the pad clips on the support abutments.
Install the sleeve bolt and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Install the cable support bracket (with the cable attached) with the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
Remove the two lug nuts retaining the rotor.
Install the wheel and tire assembly, aligning the marks made during removal.
Carefully lower the vehicle, then firmly depress the brake pedal 3 times to seat the pads against the rotors.
Place Jack under engine with wood to hold it up. Remove uper engine mount(leave loose in engine compartment. Loosen pulley bolts. Remove belts. Remove alternator bolts and lift out of the way for easy access to power steering bolts. Remove 2 power steering bolts using access holes in pulley. You should be able to accessall of the water pump bolts now by moving things out of the way as you go. The two larger bolts toward the radiator can be accessed through the two holes in the motor mount ( you will need a short socket on a 1/4" drive rachet). You should be able to get the pump off now. Installation is much easier than removal.
Your hood is just stuck. You'll need the help of a friend. One person must pry up the hood with their fingers while the other keeps the hood lift lever pulled. Once you get the hood open, I highly recommend "adjusting" the U-shaped striker on the underside of the hood (it's painted body color. Do not mess with the black painted safety latch lever!). On this car model, it has a tendency to bend toward the passenger side over time, causing the sticking hood problem. It's nothing several whacks with a hammer can't fix though to restore it to its original position. Have someone brace the hood (i.e., push the hood toward the passenger side) while you bang the striker back toward the driver's side. It won't need to move far, so check the hood opening operation frequently to see if you've moved the striker far enough back towards the driver's side for it to function normally again. Also, be sure to lubricate the hood latch with some WD-40 or something similar. It will help keep the internal parts of the latch moving and make it easier for your hood to pop up when you pull the hood lift lever.