Also blew chunks of cat out of the exhaust pipe. It runs fine first few min., then sputters, misses, and dies like it's starving. Have replaced wire set, cleaned EGR, cleaned carb intake, new air filter. Not sure which direction to point. No check engine light, no SES. Check engine light works because it shows when starting. Any guidance?
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sounds like the cats are plugged up....remove the o2 sensors and see if it runs better. Mine would idle, but would pop and stumble when the gas was hit. Ran well for a long time but would stumble whwn floored, slowly got so bad couldnt drive it but it idled fine. Pulled the o2 sensors and started it up and all kinds of debris, junk, blew out. Replaced cats and o2 sensors and runs great. cost $2000.00 in parts.If you find that this is your problem, then check to see if the cats came apart and blew chunks into the muffler,,,,can cause a restriction and cook the new cats. Took me a lot of time to get this truck running right, but it sounds like youre dealing with the same issues..I went through the coil packs and chased engine codes for a week. Pull the o2 sensors and see what blows out; and if engine runs better.....hope this helps (spend some time pricing o2 sensors and y pipe with cars...you can save some $. good luck!
If it has an automatic choke, this will keep it revving more when the engine is cold and less when hot. Maybe adjust the idle setting screw on the carburettor so it revs slightly more. Try that before it is running hot. Only increase the revving gradually to the stage where stalling would be avoided when hot. Gradually so that there is not too much revving when cold. Adjusting and testing over a few runs could be a good strategy
If the cat is clogged, blocking exhaust flow, the car may start normally, and may run fine while the engine is cold. Within a few mins as engine warms it will start to bog down and die when you try to acellerate, even a little. May even die out if you give it gas, while it may idle just fine.
This has been my experice in 2 different cars of different types over the years.
Its possible that your
crankcase is full of gass too, I suggest change oil and filter, also, if it wont
go over 40, the converter (catalytic) is probably damaged as well, raw
fuel in the exhaust will break up the cat. Oil change is imperitive as
too much liquid in the crankcase will destroy an engine in seconds. Can also be caused by the clogged converter, too much backpressure.
vacuum gauge, hook into a manifold vacuum source. Increase RPM to
1500-200 and hold steady, if vacuum gauge falls, exhaust sytem has a
restriction, the cat or muffler or a pipe has a broken chunk of the cat
Sounds like either Air mass sensor, Air mass meter or finally the EGR valve this is the exhaust gas recycler I would say that is the fault when they start to go this is what they do until finally the car will barely move.
Also I would check all your air pipes for leaks make sure there is no rips or tears in the pipes, The car will drive fine like you say until you ease of the gas to a stop position it **** in to much air and kills the engine. Air faults are cheaper so look there first.
I had a 99 Suburban that did almost the same thing, it turned out to be the Catyletic Converters were plugged. Try taking the exhaust pipe loose at the manifold for test purposes. If it runs good with the pipes loose, that's the problem. Replace the Cat's. There were no codes for either, it would start and run nice for about 5 seconds, then run rough and then stall.