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Re: Directions replace front wheel bearings on a 1985...
NOTE: After the wheel bearings have been removed or replaced or the front axle has been reassembled be sure to adjust wheel bearing preload. Refer to the Adjustment service procedure below. On the 1989–92 240SX there is just one wheel bearing, pressed into the hub and no adjusting cap. Refer to the exploded views of the Front Axle Hub Assembly. Review the complete service procedure.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the front wheels and the brake caliper assemblies.
NOTE: Brake hoses do not need to be disconnected from the brake caliper assemblies. Make sure the brake hoses are secure and do not let caliper assemblies hang unsupported from the vehicle.
Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
Pry off cotter pin and take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
Remove wheel hub with disc brake rotor from spindle with bearings installed. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.
Remove inner bearing and grease seal from hub using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
If it is necessary to replace the bearing outer races, drive them out of the hub with a brass drift pin and mallet.
Install the outer bearing race with a tool (KV401021S0 special tool number) until it seats in the hub flush.
NOTE: Place a large glob of grease into the palm of one hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side through the gaps between the rollers. The bearing must be completely packed with grease.
Pack each wheel bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Pack hub and hub cap with the recommended wheel bearing grease up to shaded portions. Refer to the illustration.
Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the proper position in the hub.
Install the wheel hub with disc brake rotor to the spindle.
Install the outer wheel bearing, lock washer, wheel bearing lock nut, adjusting cap, cotter pin (always use a new cotter pin and O-ring for installation after adjustment), spread cotter pin then install the O-ring and dust cap.
Install the brake caliper assemblies and bleed brakes if necessary. Install the front wheels.
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Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with wire, out of the way. Remove the caliper torque plate if equipped.
Remove the dust cap and then remove the cotter pin, lock washer (if equipped) nut lock and nut.
Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle with the outer bearing. Don't let the bearing fall out.
Pry the inner oil seal out and remove the inner bearing.
Clean and inspect the bearings and outer races.
Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive out the bearing outer race. Press a new one into position.
Pack the bearings with grease until it oozes out the other side. Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease.
Position the inner bearing into the hub, coat the oil seal with grease and press it into the hub.
Press the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing and thrust washer.
Install the hub nut. Turn the hub a few times to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut until there is 0mm axial play. Using a spring tension gauge, check that the preload (with new grease seal installed) is 2.2–6.4 lbs. (9.8–28.4N)
Install the lock-nut, new cotter pin and hub grease cap.
Install the brake torque plate. Install the brake caliper.
Install the wheels and lower the truck.
The hub and bearing service procedures for a 4wd models are basically the same as those for a 2wd version, with the exception of removing the free running hub assembly and the bearing preload adjustment. Refer to Sections 1 and 7 for additional information. Adjust the preload after the wheel bearing is replaced or the front axle assembly is reassembled.
BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
Thoroughly clean all parts and pack the wheel bearings.
Apply grease to threaded portions of the spindle, grease seal lip and wheel hub.
Tighten the wheel bearing lock-nut with a socket and torque wrench to 58–72 ft. lbs. (78–98 Nm).
Rotate the hub in both directions a few times to seat the bearings. Loosen wheel bearing lock-nut.
Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 2wd models
Fig. 2: Removing the bearing outer races
Fig. 3: Packing the wheel bearing with grease
Fig. 4: Pack the lip cavity of grease seal with grease
Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 4wd models
Measure wheel bearing axial end-play. The wheel bearing end-play specification is 0.
Install lock washer by tightening the lock-nut within 15–30 degrees.
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions. Wheel bearing should be seated correctly.
If necessary, measure wheel bearing preload.
NOTE: Measure wheel bearing preload with a spring-type gauge; measure at wheel hub bolt, with tire removed. The hub assembly should rotate with 1.6–4.7 lbs. (0.73–2.13 kg) of pressure.
I can tell you on a 93 Altima that you have remove the entire wheel knuckle and press it out from the rear. Yeah, the knuckle, remove the strut tower bolts, drive train ( which can be lighty pressed out ), caliper and bracket, and remove the ball joint. There's a snap ring at the back of the wheel knuckle that holds the bearing, then press it out with a socket and a table vice or something to that effect. By the way the going commercial rate if you take it to a shop and have them do it starts at $150 for labor. Worth it, oh yeah.