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Re: rear axle leaking
Block the front tires. Break the rear lugs loose. Jack up the rear of the truck at the center if possible. remove the wheels & brake drums. Remove the brake shoes,return springs & all the other hardware. Remove the differential cover & drain oil. If you have a posi the next step sucks. You need to remove the threaded pin from the housing & remove the axle retaining clips. All the while,being carefull of the spring in the posi unit. If no posi,then same procedure,minus the "pucker factor". After the axle is out,take a large flat blade screw driver or pry bar & pop the seal out. Keep in mind the axle bearing is probably gone too , so that's another procedure. Keep it apart,you'll be glad you did.
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This is different. In a perfect world, you would run the truck on a dynamometer, get it up to 55 MPH and look under the truck. The fluid is going somewhere. There is a vent tube on most axles. Follow the tube to find its' end and see if the fluid is traveling away from where you had expected a leak. Check your axle shafts under the rear rotors to see if the Emergency brake drum is oil coated. Another way to think about this is the original failure. The pinion seal. The seal contacts the rotating flange. If you have a wobble in the driveshaft, (balance issues, U-joints) then the rotating flange can wobble. If you have a bad pinion bearing or carrier bearing, it can work to make the spline gear wobble. So I am suggesting that the leaking Pinion seal was caused by something and the seal was a casualty of an undetermined cause. You should be able to add an Ultra-violet dye to the axle fluid to find your leak. Even if it is running from the same place, the current leak will be showing the UV dye. Please rate my info.
Jack the vehicle up and check the brake caliper. If it isn't a seal on the caliper make sure you check the shock absorber to make sure that isn't leaking. If that is not leaking it is most likely the axle seal. Unless Ford has changed the design of that your going to have to open the rear differential, remove the retaining clip for that axle and extract it from the Axle housing. The seal is typically pressed on so it is going to be a pain to remove the old seal then press the new seal in place and re-assemble the rear end. Make sure you fill the differential with the proper fluid or you'll burn the rear end out. When your checking the caliper make sure you check the brake line for breaks and the bleed valve to make sure that is in place and not leaking.
The 1999 Ford Expedition is built on an F150 platform. The Expedition uses a 9.75-inch rear axle. The axles are retained with C-clips at the end of the axle shaft, inside the differential carrier. The axle bearings are of the roller type. A failed axle bearing can manifest itself as a noise at the rear wheel or gear oil leaking past the oil seal. When replacing axle bearings, the oil seals must also be replaced. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Torque the bolt to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.Click this link below for complete detailed procedure:---http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-remove-rear-wheel-bearings-on.html
This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
you have a seal leak causing the differential oil to get onto the rear brakes shoes.what is happening is the brakes grab the drum and shift until they can`t move(turn)any more causing the clunking noise.the groove in the axle if it is bad enough then it will need a axle sleeve installed which gives the axle were the groove is a smooth surface,it is a thin metal sleeve the diameter of the axle that is installed on the axle.
This is caused by a leaking rear axle seal you will need to pull the left rear axle out and change the seal and check for a worn axle bearing, this requires the removal of the differential cover, pin and center block or posi spring and clutch pack (if so equipped) and spider gears and then the "C" clip that retains the axle into the gear carrier, u will need a tube of silicone to reseal the cover and a axle seal installer tool and about 2 hours of your time
First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.
JACK up the truck and block other rear wheel both back and take hand brake off ,,remove rear wheel/brake drum/handbrake cable from rear brake/remove metal brake hose/remove rearbacking plate with all parts fitted to it ie brakeshous 4or5 bolts holding the rear axle in to housing and when all parts off then put on a IMPACK PULLER and remove complete backing plate with axle assy and take to the engineering shop to get it pressed off and a new bearing and seal assy pressed back on .
Then refit in reverse of removal and bleed the brakes and top up the rear axle of oil (EP90) apply h/brake take out blocks and lower jack and test drive .. BUT MAKE SURE THE BRAKES ARE 100%
you can purchase a haynes repair manuel at your local parts store for your 2004 Ford F-150. these books have step by step information with some illustrations that will be benifical in completing your desired repairs of replacing your rear axle seals..hope this helps you. chris