Question about 2003 Chevrolet S-10
The leak is where the trnsmisson joins with the engine.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: radiator fluid leak
Do this test, bypass your heater core by removing both hoses and connect them together with a small threaded pipe coupling and then worm gear clamp them on to the coupling. Be sure to mark one of then with a tye wrap so you will know if its top/bottom/left or right. Then run it a few days and routinely check for leaks if there are'nt any more leaks then you either had a small hair line tear or crevice corrosion at one of the hoses at the fire wall or there is a small leak just inside the fire wall on the heater core. When reinstalling the hoses cut a 1/4 of a inch off of them and then reinstall and recheck for the leak. If you still see it then its internal then there is the real pain of changing the heater core. Good Luck :?) DRRXR
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
SOURCE: 1998 s10 oil leak
well it wont be the oil pan seal then cause they never leaked that much. I would go back and look at the filter he put on. could be just a problem with it. for the cost of one put another one on and make sure the gasket surfacce is clean down to the metal engine block.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
You need to fix the Leak in your hydraulic system to your clutch on your transmission. The reason that your transmission is not going in to gear right is that the fluid is to low to push the throw out bearing to disengage the clutch fully.
Once the fluid get's too low, you'll not be able to disengage the clutch to put it in to gear or change gear.
Check the fluid level to your hydraulic clutch reservoir and fill to the right level and fix the leak in the hydraulic lines.
Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, glad to help.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
there is a long bush type bearing in this tunnel just at the end were the seal fits in it can were out and let the prop shaft flap about, this in turn rips the seal to bits,,,also the yoke has a polished part on the end that go's over the spline into the end of the gear box tunnel the seal can were a groov into this part, and no amount of new seals will stop it leaking them as the new seal runs in this worn out groov, again ripping it to bits,,,test the long bush type bearing by holding the prop shaft yoke and pushing it up and to the side, if it moves about replace the bush in the end of the tunnel as well,, its a push in fit! with a big hammer!!
if the yoke has a groov in it you need a new prop as all prop shafts are balanced so you can just fit a new yoke it could throw the car up in the air when your driving it down the free way,,,,by shaking it apart
i hope this is of help to you
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
If you aren't experienced with brakes you should see a mechanic. With metering valves, proportioning valves, ABS accumulators and other variables they need a trained eye. A master cylinder could be leaking into the vacuum system and not visible. Sometimes a wet backing plate can identify a leaky wheel cylinder. Portions of the line are rubber hoses. Even parts that are not leaking may be damaged and causing problems elsewhere.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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