Question about Cars & Trucks
Ok the bolts near the intake manifold put them at 4-5 ft.lb and the bolts near the spark plugs 6-8 ft.lb that should be good
Posted on Jun 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Step one 37 ft lbs then tignten 120 degrees more
Step one 11 ft lbs then tighten 90 degresss more
89 inch lbs
132 inch lbs
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
There likely is a spec for oil pan but unless you are a finatic, you really don't need to know what it is. Simple rule: Don't crank down ******* any fastener. If corners near crank ends have larger fasteners, you can tighten them a bit more than on siderails. Before tightening anything, install all bolts finger tight, to ensure that they are not cross threaded. To avoid warping pan, tighten from the center of the pan, working towards both ends, alternating from side to side as you go. When you are finished, go over it again, using the same amount of force on each bolt. As I said, end bolts can if larger in diameter, be tightened more but be careful not to tighten so much that you will either split or push the gasket out the sides.. Anywhere two gasket ends **** together, I recommend using a sensor -safe dab of silicone. An oil pan is not under any mechanical stress or pressure. I have used this method for many years and NEVER had one leak. If you really need #s, small fasteners get about 12-15in lbs, larger ones about 20.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
The haynes book is not recommended since there are numerous mistakes and they still will not update. One of the biggest is the firing order.
The factory service manual is the only way to go.
Head bolts - 46 - 50.5 lbs (there is an order sequence for the bolts)
Intake & exhuast manifolds- 13.5 - 20 lbs
Flywheel - 41.5 - 47 lbs
Clutch cover - 13.5 - 20 lbs
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
Head bolts are torque to yeild so you MUST use new bolts.
Tighten cylinder head retaining bolts in numerical sequence in three steps as follows:
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
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