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C100 my charade struggles under load, looses power and I have to drop back a gear ?

I gave used Corby cleaner, changed distributer cap and cleaned the points ?

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: 91 camry starts and shuts off when put in drive or reverse

I was an ASE master auto tech for 13yrs and have seen this problem before. It sounds like the idle air control valve on the intake manifold has stopped working and the idle speed is not being controlled(letting the engine idle too slow which causes a stall when put under a load such as putting it in gear). Try giving it a little throttle while putting it in gear if that works let off the throttle if it dies you will know the Idle Air controll is not working.

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

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alicantecoli
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SOURCE: 2002 vw bettle tdi surging, only at idle in gear. clears up under power

is this model common rail or does it have an injector pump,injector pump has a built in lift pump and if this is weak then the transfer pressure is low which is causing scavanging.if this is the case then fitting an in line non return valve in the fuel in line can help,but more often than not fitting a low pressure in line fuel pump is a cheaper solution than an injector pump overhaul

Posted on Nov 05, 2008

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: Does my 1989 1.0L Daihatsu Charade have a carburettor? Where?

all CB-23 engines are carby. Only the CB-90 was fuel injected in the non turbo suit.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 silverado 5.7l struggles under load only when just off idle

With all you've done so far I'd have to say that I'd be tempted to take it to a good tranny shop just for sake of a diagnosis, which the mechanic can probably do free of charge, and a little drive down the road. Almost sounds like it's trying to take off in second gear or something. Other than that, the only thing that comes to mind at all is possible plugged exhaust, like catalytic converter.

Posted on May 21, 2009

SOURCE: Real rough idle, looses power

Hi Spacey, Sounds as if you have an old model of the HiLux. Is it Carburetor or injection? If its carb I think that's where your problem will be. If there is leakage between the throttle body of the carb and the main body above it, there will be a flat spot when pulling away from start and possibly at higher revs. The easiest way of dealing with the problem is to replace the carburetor. Keep in mind that the most critical setting in any carb is the float level, if its not set correctly it will either flood or starve. Sounds as if you may have those measurements wrong. The settings are specific to the type of carb, if you need further help, tell me the type of unit fitted to your vehicle. Regards Johngee10

Posted on Jul 17, 2011

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1 Answer

On a 1990 Nissan axxess it starts up then it shuts up and struggle to turn back on what could be the problem.


This could be anything from bad spark plugs, wires, rotor, and distributer. It could be fuel delivery, or bad gas. I would start with simple things, change the gas filter, the spark plugs, take a look at the distributer cap and rotor and the spark plug wires. If it has been sitting for a long time, pump the tank out and put fresh gas in.

Jan 08, 2015 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

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Jeep 95 wrangler power to coil no spark changed wires cap coil need help never gave me a problem before won't sart checked ground everything looks good


Remove distributor cap have someone tap the key while you watch the rotor inside the distributor if it does not move that is the problem then it could be the gear shear pin has broke or cam is not turning distributor.

Sep 23, 2012 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to install 95 astro/safri v6 distribtor


You have to take the access panel off inside the van. There used to be two screws on the outside under the hood and the two clips inside that have to be released. Mine was older so I don't know if they are the same. Find the wire that is going to #1 spark plug. The is the spark plug at the very front of the drivers side. Mark the wire and its relationship to the cap someway. Mark all the other wires in the cap so you know their location when you put the new distributer in. Or leave them in the cap if you are going to use the same cap. Take the cap off and turn the engine over so the rotor is pointing directly to the #1 wire. It may not hurt to make some other point of reference, where the rotor is pointing to. Loosen up the bolt at the base of the distributer, blow all dirt away and turn and pull up slightly on distributer. Do not crank engine at any point during this time until the new distributer is in. Once you have it loose take the bolt out or at least slide the clamp all the way out of the way, Remove the distributer. Remove the base gasket for the distributer and clean the surface and put a new gasket on. Put the new distributer in paying close attention to where the rotor has to line up. The point of reference I told you to make earlier. You need to turn the rotor slightly CCW from the reference point as it will turn CW a little when it is mated into the cam gear and seating to the motor. If the distributer will not go in where you need it, it may be possible that the oil pump drive has moved a little. You may need to get a long screwdriver and go into the distributer hole and turn is slightly. After you get the distributer in, you should be able to put the cap back on. Or put all wires back on to the same positions that I told you to mark earlier. If you followed this closely then the engine should start. It should probably be timed. Please rate my answer so I am rewarded points for it.

Jan 29, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Backfiring and constant miss firing, engine not running smoothly during idling and loud miss firing sound at exhaust at full throttle opening.


You have a timing problem. Check for loose/broken belts. also see if the distributer cap is worn out or cracked. Replace it if it looks worn out. Change spark plugs....
Sounds like a typical ignition problem. If your handy, you can do this all yourself.
Change plugs wires and distruber cap.

Mar 09, 2011 | 1988 Daihatsu Charade

1 Answer

I have a1984 toyota with a 22R engine it will idle real good but it will not accelerate at all


There could be several things that could be causing your problem.

I would start with the easy and move to the hard suggestions as needed:
  • Air filter
  • Fuel filter
  • Run a can of fuel system cleaner through.
  • Spray out carburetor with cleaner and check fuel bowl level in site glass. (if equipped)
  • Fuel pump keeping up with demand
  • Spark plugs.
  • Wires cap and rotor
  • Timing light tune up
  • Check the mechanical and vacuum distributer timing advance.

I would also recommend having a good auto service manual such as a Haynes or Chilton's covering your vehicle year on hand for this work and your reference if you plan to do the work yourself.

My truck sometimes would loose the mechanical and vacuum advance on the distributor due to dirt or crud build up on the bearings which allows the sensor to move inside the distributer in relation to the shaft. The mechanical advance would advance the timing by 5 degrees; the vacuum would also advance about another 5 degrees. This vacuum and mechanical advance would take care of the timing needs depending on the speed of the engine and the load on the engine. Without these working, your vehicle will be sluggish and slow to respond. You can check yours with a timing light. With it connected to the #1 spark plug, you should see your timing mark in relation to the scale on the engine block casting near the crank shaft pulley. You may have to clean off the pulley markings so you can see them with your timing light before you start your engine. If you have a vacuum hose or hoses running to your distributor, disconnect them and plug them with golf tees or Phillips screw driver tips. Start and run your engine while looking at the pulley marks with your timing light. When you rev the engine, the timing mark will advance with an increase in engine speed. At less than 750 rpm, the advance should be relaxed. If that works well, then reconnect the vacuum lines and note the change in the advance again with the vacuum lines connected. Inside the distributer, the points or electronic sensor sits on a plate that surrounds the shaft. The mechanical and vacuum advance inputs will rotate this plate and change the relationship or position of the sensor which then changes the degrees at which the spark plug will fire.(timing) On my trunk the mechanical and vacuum would advance my timing by as much as 10 degrees. If your truck's advance is not working this that could be a major reason your vehicle is lacking power. You may have to clean out your distributer's internal parts and free up their movement. Depending on your experience, I would use caution and proceed slowly. A good Haynes Manual or service manual will be a must. They sell them at auto parts stores. With the battery disconnected, use a wrench and socket attached to the crankshaft pulley. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the #1 cylinder piston is top dead center and the distributor rotor is pointed to the #1 spark plug, you can then remove the distributer from the engine. The bolt holding it in has to be removed as to allow the casting to be pulled from the engine. There is a channel the bolt passes through which will not allow it to be removed. Remove the internal parts and make sure they are clean. Depending on your year, there may be a plate with ball bearings that is stuck and needs to be cleaned. Carefully reassemble and install back in your truck. Make sure the rotor is pointed to the #1 spark plug wire as it was before you removed it to ensure it is not out of timing relation with the cam shaft. You may have to position the rotor a few times to get it correct. Due to the slanted or skewed teeth, the shaft of the distributer will rotate as it is inserted. Start the engine and with your timing light position and lock the distributer.

Other possibilities are old spark plugs, rotor, and cap. These can wear out and loose their performance. I always used dealer (Toyota) parts for the cap, rotor, and wires. I found nothing better to use. They are expensive, but well worth it in my opinion. The Toyota wires have high quality rubber and have the cylinder numbers on them and the cap #1 position is marked. They also came preassembled on the cap sealed and the correct length. The spark plugs that I have found originally on my truck were NGK's. They worked well. Depending on the emission system used on your vehicle, the plug gap should be listed on a tag under the hood somewhere.

The air filter and fuel filter can be picked up at a parts store much cheaper than the Toyota dealer parts. I see no advantage to using dealer parts for these items. Clogged filters can lead to problems when the engine is under load. I would also look in the site glass on the carburetor and see if the fuel level is correct and between the marks. If your truck is fuel injected, disregard the site glass reference. In this case injectors could be clogged or tired. You can run a can of cleaner through your fuel system and see if that helps or not.

I ran out of text space. Let me know if this worked or if you need to check the pump out or not.

I hope these suggestions will help you find your problem with your vehicle.

Todd

Jan 16, 2011 | 1984 Toyota Pickup Deluxe

1 Answer

1990 silverado 5.7l struggles under load only when just off idle


With all you've done so far I'd have to say that I'd be tempted to take it to a good tranny shop just for sake of a diagnosis, which the mechanic can probably do free of charge, and a little drive down the road. Almost sounds like it's trying to take off in second gear or something. Other than that, the only thing that comes to mind at all is possible plugged exhaust, like catalytic converter.

May 07, 2009 | 1990 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Missing and not starting when gets warm and run for a bit


ok.. for starters you need to check why you are loosing revs.. it could be your powersteering switch on your steering rack not working.. just bridge switch to test.. revs should not drop on steering.. then check fuel pump relay.. and efi relay.. theese cars are gettin on.. so could be faulty with long use..heat related.. insert a visual inline fuel filter and when it stalls check fuel flow... aswell as put a little fuel in the vacum hose line and see if it starts to confirm its a fuel issue... if the visualis fuel flow than its fuel pump related.. wires can come loose of pump .. as they travell under rear seat.. and into tank.. ... good luck

Nov 06, 2008 | 1991 Daihatsu Charade

1 Answer

91 camry starts and shuts off when put in drive or reverse


I was an ASE master auto tech for 13yrs and have seen this problem before. It sounds like the idle air control valve on the intake manifold has stopped working and the idle speed is not being controlled(letting the engine idle too slow which causes a stall when put under a load such as putting it in gear). Try giving it a little throttle while putting it in gear if that works let off the throttle if it dies you will know the Idle Air controll is not working.

Oct 12, 2008 | 1991 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

My girlfriend has a 1995 Daihatsu charade, 4 cylinder, the car seems to drive really nicely but occasionally on the highway it will start to shake and shudder, and the car will no stall it just wont rev...


Maybe simply a fuel filter needs replacing. Also check your sparkplugs are the correct ones. Check inside the distributer cap for clean electrode points and clean rotor button. Check the PCV valve is closing on vacuum. Check to see if any of the vacuum hoses are perishing, cracked or loose fitting.

Jul 24, 2008 | 1988 Daihatsu Charade

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