Question about 1998 Pontiac Sunfire

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What is the big hose that runs from the antifreeze to the engine called?

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Upper radiator hose

Posted on Feb 26, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I already found the main problem with my mustang the upper radiatior hose is cracked. i was just wondering if that would cause antifreeze to wind up all over the engine and the ground because i can't find...


yes that is your problem, the antifreeze is filled through the tank and runs into your radiator to cool and then through the top hose into you engine and then back to the radiator bottom hose

Mar 18, 2011 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Thermostat for my buick skylark custom


Your car has what is called a transverse-mounted engine/transmission. In a 97 Skylark, your engine is a V6, either a 3.1 or 3.8 litre. I know this is long, but since you are inexperienced, and I've been doing this, and teaching other people to do this for thirty-five years, trust me--this is not that hard; just read it all the way through before you begin. Print it and take it to the car with you.
To find the thermostat, the engine must be cold. Look at the front of the engine compartment where the hood latch is. The first thing you will see inside the engine compartment is the plastic radiator cover with all the identification labels on it. Concealed by this cover is the radiator. On the left side of the top of the radiator, you will see a large (1 1/2") black rubber hose. This is called the upper radiator hose. One end of this "S"-shaped hose attaches to the radiator; the other to the engine. The end that attaches to the engine actuallay attaches to what is called the "water neck." This weird-looking thing contains the thermostat within. There is a hose clamp around the upper radiator hose which keeps the hose attached to the water neck since this hose is under pressure while the engine is running and hot. If this is the factory hose clamp, it is going to look like a big bread-wrapper twist-tie, without the twists. It's just a big piece of spring wire. If this has been done to this car before, the clamp will probably be what is called a "screw clamp" and looks just like what is on most dryer hoses, only smaller.
This part gets messy, and do not let your pets anywhere near the antifreeze: it is both deadly poison to animals and smells and tastes very good to them.
With a 3/8" ratchet and ratchet extensions if necessary, and using a 10mm socket, remove the tow bolts which hold the water neck to the engine block. Gently pry (if necessary) the water neck from the block. When it comes off you are going to get a big gush of antifreeze from the engine. That's okay. Pull the upper radiator hose with the water neck attached to it away from the engine; tie it off with some string if needed to keep it out of the way. The thermostat may come off in the water neck or it may stay in the engine block, either way it doesn't matter.
Gently pry the thermostat away from whichever one it stayed in (and it may just fall out all by itself). Now look at the bottom of the radiator; there is another hose like the first, called the lower radiator hose. With your hand, squeeze this hose as hard as you can several times, until the antifreeze in the engine block quits coming out of the block where you detached the water neck. This gets the antifreeze level low enough for you to move on to replacing the thermostat.
Dry off everything as best you can--the block and the water neck. Then clean them with rubbing alcohol. Next, using a thin flexible putty knife, gently scrape off the ole gasket material from both surfaces, the block and the water neck. Get ALL of it off.
Next, using what we mechanics call "Indian Head" gasket compound, sold now as brown gasket shellac, and using the brush built in to the bottle cape, paint a thin, even coat of this gooey stuff (don't get it on you--it is very sticky and hard to remove!) on both the engine block and the water neck, making sure to go around the outside of the bolt holes, too. Take a break and allow this to dry for about 30 minutes. Then, following the instructions on the thermostat package, and making sure to point the thermostat in the right direction (it matters, and almost all replacement thermostats has "toward engine" or "toward radiator" stamped on them somewhere) place the new thermostat gasket and thermostat into the engine block, pressing it all together firmly. Finally, carefully line the water neck up over the thermostat and the bole holes, and put the bolts back in. If you can get a torque wrench, you will tighten the bolts to 13 pound feet of torque each. The parts guy should loan you a torque wrench and show you how to read it. If you can't get a torque wrench from the parts guy, just tighten them as equally as you can judge, tight, but not as tight as they were when you took them out. Take another break, this time overnight to allow the gasket sealer to do its thing.
In the morning, remove your radiator cap, and add pure antifreeze to the top. Do not put any antifreeze or water into the coolant bottle at this time. Put the radiator cap back on tightly all the way, and start the car. Let it run for about 30 minutes with the hood up and check the water neck for leaks. By using Indian Head, there should not be a leak. If there aren't any, you are almost done. Turn the car off, let it cool all the way down, then check the coolant bottle. If it is low, add pure antifreeze to it until it reaches the "cold" mark.
Close the hood, because now you are done!

Feb 20, 2010 | 1997 Buick Skylark

1 Answer

How much work is it to fix a leak. it is spraying out anti freeze up by the motor. It looks like maybe the where the seal may go


If the leak is a hose, not a big deal. Drain antifreeze disconnect hose, instal new hose, refill antifreeze. If the leak is a water pump also not a big deal, same procedure.
If the leak is in the radiator, a bit more complicated. Radiator can be replaced or repaired by a radiator shop.
If leak is coming from somewhere else on the engine, could be more serious, like a gasket leak. If this happened you would get fluids mixing ( oil/gas)
Good luck. A Haynes manual is a good investment for your car.

Feb 05, 2010 | 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

My car is leaking antifreeze from a hose that runs from behind the alternator into the engine. It is L-shaped. What is it called & how do I replace it? Car: 2001 Monte Carlo SS


It is called a heater hose, find the ends of it, they will have clamps, probably spring clamps, use pliers to squeeze them and slide them up, then remove complete hose, take it to the parts store and they can match it up for you.

Jan 10, 2010 | Chevrolet Monte Carlo Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2005 toyota camry.Leaking antifreeze on drivers left hand side. Mechanics took apart dash did presure tests etc. and can't find leak? Any suggestions?


The only antifreeze that goes into your car is two hoses (one in, one out of firewall, behind engine) that connect to what looks like a mini radiator. This is called the heater core. Usually this leaks to the passenger side, however it simply has to be your heater core leaking. Tell them to connect those two hoses together instead of running them into fire wall, and if the problem stops, which it will, to replace the heater core. How big is the leak by the way?

xxsodasipperxx@yahoo.com

Dec 14, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Camry V6

1 Answer

Antifeeze leak on my 2000 VW Beetle Turbo


Most likely a leaky gasket. The water pump is a likely candidate, but also could be from a bad radiator hose/thermostat connection. Would suggest washing down the engine with a hose connected to the hot water. While the engine is cold use the hose to wash off the oil & grease deposits and old antifreeze. Allow the engine to dry without running the car. Once dry start the car and be prepared to look for the first sign of a leak. Sounds like a dealer issue since there is very little work clearence between the front of the engine and the car body. Barely enough room to be able to change the serpentine belt.

Mar 20, 2009 | 1988 Buick Regal

2 Answers

Thermostat location and replacement


Ok, I will ty to help ya.  This is pretty simple.  First pop your hood open.  Make sure your engine is cool or you can and will get burned!!! Take the cap off of the radiator.  Under the car on the bottom side of the radiator, to the passenger side I believe is a plug.  Get yourself something ***Clean*** to hold the antifreeze in.  It has to hold a few gallons.  Make sure it is clean if you want to reuse the antifreeze.  If you can not find a plug, take the bottom hose off.  Drain the antifreeze.  Next, look on top of the radiator.  There should be a big hose going from the top of the radiator to the engine.  Follow it.  It should be connected to a metal water inlet that is bolted to the engine.  Take that end of the hose off.  Unbolt the water inlet from the engine.  inside is your thermostat.  ***Make sure you note which way the thermostat sits in there.*** As is you install the new one backwards, it will not work.  After you have your new thermostat in place, use some sealant and place the inlet back on the engine.  Tighten the bolts down.  Reconnect your upper hose.  Put you bottom hose or drain plug, whichever you used, back together.  Refill your radiator with antifreeze.  Chances are it will not all fit.  you may need to run your engine for a few seconds to get it circulating.  Put you cap back on and drive the car a few miles to get it warmed up.  Come back and let the car cool off.  Open the cap and make sure it is full and you are done.  I know it is lengthy, but it is pretty simple.  Hope it helps and please don't forget to rate!

Mar 04, 2009 | 1995 Ford Escort

3 Answers

1995 jeep laredo over heats


you might have a blown cylinder head gasket.check the cooling fan

Oct 30, 2008 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Have a 1999 lexus es300. Getting indications that knock sensors need to be replaced. Car has 144k miles. What do the knock sensors do and how easy / tough to replace?


If you have some common tools the knock sensors are no big deal.  If you take a lexus they will make is sound like you need to completely disassemble the engine and scare you off.
First, do you really have a problem with preignition causing real knocking due to carbon buildup, or diluted gasoline or do you have failed knock sensor(s).  Try to decarbon the engine first.
There is a technique used with water being sprayed into a warm engine intake.  This will clean up the valves and carbon buildup which can result in engine knocking.  

The job will be a couple hundred for the parts and a couple hours of your time.  After you are done, you have entitled yourself to approximately $500 in new tools for your tool chest since this is what Toyota and Lexus will charge to fix (about $1k+).

You will need to buy the following to address the knock sensors and a couple other items while you're in the neighborhood.
- 1x upper intake plenum gaskets - 2x lower intake plenum gasket - coolant bypass hose found in the same area as knock sensors - 2x knock sensors (bank1 and bank2) - short pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to common wire harness. - toyota antifreeze  (2 gallons, if i remember correctly... when mixed to 50/50 (antifreeze/ water) you will have 4 gallons.
drain the radiator drain the front of the engine using the engine drain plug - this plug is on the front right side facing the engine, behind the right hand exhaust manifold. (this will lower antifreeze enough to avoid dumping antifreeze all over the engine later) remove the air filter box remove the connections into the throttle body remove the cable from the throttle control remove the upper air intake plenum remove the two lower air intake plenums remove the antifreeze fill port
Knock sensors will be in the valley between the lower intake plenums.  You will need to remove the rubber antifreeze bypass hose (little short hose blocking access to the knock sensors).
By the way, the reason you bought a replacement, is that if this short hose splits from normal wear, you need to spend this money and effort to reach it, so just do it now.
The little pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to the wire harness is said to cause a big majority of the problem due to the plastic getting hot and brittle, falling off and shorting to the engine.  While in this mode the engine thinks knock is occuring and starts to retune the air fuel mixture to get rid of the knock until it goes into minimal operations mode.
After replacing the knock sensors (and tighten to torque specs), replacing pig tail cable, and reinstalling your new short by pass hose.  Replace the lower gaskets, antifreeze fill port, lower intakes, upper gasket, upper intake, air intake, air filter, reattach everything, reconnect all the rubber lines you pulled off, make sure there are no splits in the air intake passage anywhere, retighten the engine antifreeze drain plug, and the drain on the bottom of your radiator, and your done!
Don't forget the easy stuff.  Dilute the antifreeze with water and fill the radiator and overflow tub.  Run the engine for several minutes until its hot and opens the thermistat to allow antifreeze into the empty engine cavities.  Turn the engine off and get a cold one as the engine cools.  Once absolutely sure engine is cold, refill the radiator with antifreeze and refill the reserve tub.  Do this at until all the beer is gone and you are both full of antifreeze (in one form or another)..... obviously red stuff in the car, amber down the gut.

Jul 27, 2008 | 1998 Lexus ES 300

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