Question about 1993 Buick Riviera

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Having trouble with engine killing or running rough even after it's warm.

The car was warm and running normally. When I backed up slowly, it stalled. It started after 6 cranks. It stalled again at the next stop sign. Started again after 7 cranks, it ran rough, straightened up and a half a mile later, at 60 mph. it started running rough again. 20 seconds later, it cleared up. Made it home. The next time I drove it, I accelerated a lot, it made it 3/8 of a mile and killed. It didn't start again until the next day.

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Not for sure but it could be your cam sensor. if the check engine light is on then take it to a parts store and they can run a scan and give you more information

Posted on May 11, 2014

Testimonial: "We will check on that, but most of the sensors have been replaced. We will ask the mechanic to see if it was already changed. THANKS!"


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: shuddering/jerking on highway, pull over, wont start for 30 mins

Last time I had that happen in a car everything blew. I found out the root of the problem was my timing chain, but I can tell you, you don't want to wait to get that checked out in any case or you will end up with a lot more problems.

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Car starts then stalls once the engine warms up.

You need new timing belt and gears. Buicks gears are made of plastic, and become a big glob. Nothing for the timing belt to grab onto.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 76164 Answers

SOURCE: Hard to start in the morning. Also stalls

This sounds like a fuel pump check valve problem, if the fuel is not kept in the filter and lines by the check valve it drains back into the fuel tank and causes the kind of problems you are having, you can check this by hooking up a fuel pressure guage at the test port on the fuel manifold that supplies fuel to the injectors, run the engine and shut it down, note the fuel pressure at shut down (with the test guage hooked up), walk away for an hour, come back and check the pressure, it should not have dropped more than 5 PSI You can buy a universal fuel injection pressure tester for about $25.00, cheaper than having a shop run the test. If the pressure drops you found the problem, bad news is the check valve is in the pump, the pump is in the gas tank.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

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SOURCE: Check engine light comes will stall with no warning

U have a problem in the ignition system, most likely the ignition module or the crank sensor are failing, it will strand you soon and not restart, have it checked ASAP.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: car stalls, chugs, hard start

change fuel filter add 2 bottles heat tell fix ya bout me ok

Posted on May 23, 2009

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Why does my engine stall when idling bf falcon only does it some times ?

Fuel Injectors
Use an ohm meter to check your fuel injectors (with the engine running), by removing the wire from the injector. Two metal prongs sit inside the connector. Set the meter for the ohm setting. Touch the red meter lead to one contact and the black lead to the other prong. The ohm resistance number should be the about the same for all the injectors. If any injector reading shows a higher or lower than average number, the cause will be a defective injector, which will cause a rough idle. A zero reading will indicate a shorted injector, and must be replaced. You can also use a stethoscope or a long handled screwdriver to place on the injector head. You should be able to hear a clicking sound, telling you that the injector is "pulsing." No clicking sound indicates a dead injector.
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Examine the choke setting on a vehicle equipped with a choke adjusting knob or mechanism. Make sure the choke operates by opening slowly during normal engine warm-up. A choke that fails to open or sticks shut during warm engine running will cause a constant misfire and rough idle. A choke stuck in the open position will not allow an engine to warm up properly.
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Hook up a portable trouble code tool for your specific Ford make and model. Look for any trouble codes that appear while the engine runs at idle. Write down any code number and look it up in a trouble-code manual. Most times, code numbers can pinpoint the exact system failure or miss in the engine.
Powerful Autel MaxiDAS DS708 Multi language Diagnostic tool

Sep 17, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The engine kills in the first mile.

Overheating, maybe? Get a technician to read the diagnostic codes (or rent/buy the tool to do it yourself) they will almost certainly tell you what is wrong.

May 15, 2014 | 1993 Buick Riviera

1 Answer

Camshaft sensor problems

If the sensor detects a problem, it sends a trouble code to the ECM and your "check engine" light will come on. IMO, your symptom sounds like "cold engine" issue. Myself, our 98 Toyota Rav4 will idle rough and engine stalls when put in drive, but the problem goes away when temperature shows the engine had warmed up to operating temperature. FYI the temperature sensor monitors the radiator coolant temperature. Normal engine temperature is when coolant reaches 120 degree fahrenheit. At around 130 to 140 degrees fahrenheit, the coolant thermostat opens to let radiator coolant flow from "bypass" mode to "enter radiator" mode. If it takes longer than 10 minutes for your engine to warm up, its possible the coolant thermostat is stuck in open "enter radiator" mode. When thermostat is close, coolant radiator bypass the radiator to speed up engine warm up, but if its stuck in open, it will take longer to warm up the engine. Another factor is ambient temperature. If its cold below 50 fahrenheit, it will take longer to warm up the engine.

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Kill switch on fuel pump relay switch

If your timing belt is slightly off by a tooth or more it wont stay running. if the cam and crank sensors dont see the same #1 strock at the same time it causes rough running and stalling problems, as for your viper reach under your dash and take the fusses out. this will dissable it.

Dec 15, 2011 | 1991 Eagle Talon

1 Answer

I have a 1999 lincoln towncar thats having a issue when its cold trying to start.When i get in it in the morning it have a hard time starting.It will crank then stall crank then stall.After doing this for...

For the last 20 years of so, cars made for sale in the U.S. have an interesting emissions component.
That is, there are two sensors that screw into the engine block that detect the heat of the engine coolant.
In some cars these are even the same part, but have different tasks.
1) this sensor detects the engine temperature to operate the electric fan by the radiator.
If this sensor fails, it can cause the electric fan to not turn on when it is needed, and can cause damage to the engine from overheating.
2) This sensor is hooked to the computer and the temperature gauge to tell the computer when the engine is warmed up.
If this sensor fails, it can cause the symptoms you list.
What is happening is, with the sensor malfunctioning, it is like the old fashioned "hand choke" of 100 years ago, that you would adjust when the engine warmed up.
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