Question about 1996 Dodge Caravan

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How do you change a

Auxillary belt tensioner

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Take of the belt to release the pressure on the tensioner the unbolt it replace the same way

Posted on May 16, 2014

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Click coming from timing chain x type 2.0 jaguar


if the noise is definately from the front engine timing chain cover area then the first thing i would do is remove the auxillary drive belt/fan belt then start the engine to see if noise is still there? if so the only option is to remove the front engine cover and from remember you may have to remove the cylinder heads also, even remove engine for access\,big job, the engine is normally a bullet proof unit, if the oil has been changed at service advised intervals then the hydraulic chain tensoiner etc should be ok and most noise problems at the front of engine area are caused by. ie. belt tensioner, air con compressor,pas pump etc. so if noise goes when aux belt removed look at the that area. hope this helps.

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You have to pull your Timing Belt to get to it. While you are at it replace the Timing Belt, Timing Belt Tensioner and Serpentine Belt.

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I need a diagram of the routing of the auxillary belt on freelander td4


Look around the engine area for a sticker that shows the diagram.

Oct 19, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change auxillary belt tensioner on a citroen multi space


for many model years the belt tension device on dodge and Chrysler products was a weak link and a very dangerous one as well... the pivot for the spring load mechanism would freeze but there would be no outward symptoms until extra strain was applied as in passing another vehicle. the overstressed and likely old belt would break. you would lose power steering immediately. that is extremely dangerous for larger cars like the caravan. it becomes nearly impossible to steer the car. you can by using very high force. many people would not be able to do that even if they knew enough to try. all Chrysler products of that and similar age should be checked to make sure that tensioner pivot is free to move. you will find that many are frozen solid. once the belt is off then, as i recall, there are only 3 or 4 bolts. those can be reached with a deep well socket and ratchet or short extension .. its easy to remove and replace although close quarters. the trick is to get the old belt off and the new belt on. once the belt is in place but not yet on the pulley, there is a hex head on the pulley base that allows you to deflect the pulley against its spring using a socket or box wrench .. once you get it deflected then the belt goes on easily. release the pulley and it automatically tensions the belt. you can push on the belt and you should see the tensioner pivot. that's a good test for all cars of that era. if you cant make the tensioner pivot then its time for service. you have to remove the old belts before you can remove the tensioner. you can do that by using the box end wrench or socket to pull the tensioner against its spring. that will release the belt and it will come off easily even though its a complicated path. if you cant move the tensioner then you have been very lucky the belt didn't fail at a bad time. you can try to force the tensioner with a pry bar or even a hammer .. sometimes there is nothing you can do to move it .. in that case just cut the old belt off with a knife or cutters. that will give you access to the bolts . you might want to sketch or take a photo of how the belt is routed. there is a second belt that should be changed at the same time. that's easily removed by loosening the locking bolt on its non spring tensioner and removing tension. since the drive belt associated with the power steering is so important, i would use the best quality you can get .. you don't want that thing failing ever.
on some mid 6 cyl engines that have the alternator in the back next to the fire wall there is no good way of getting to the nuts behind the alternator. they should have been captive or welded in place but they are not. so removing the alternator is a major job to be avoided if possible. a drop of oil on its front bearing every year or so will make it last many years. you may have to remove the rear valve cover to get at those nuts. you have to do that to change spark plugs in that bank also in at least the 3.3 L engine.
those were very nice caravans back then. very useful.

May 10, 2014 | 1996 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Noise coming from front of engine changed auxillary belt and tensioner noise went but came back after a week


you may have a belt that is not correctly tightened, the weather has changed and you hear more and more belts squealing. check tension on your belts it could be too tight or loose, but if you replaced the other things you mentioned I suspect either water pump or other pulley or just the tension on the belts..

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1 Answer

2003 Chevy Van, drives ok but has strange whining sound coming from engine. Any ideas?


Remove the auxillary drive belts and run the engine without them .If the noise is gone then its something driven by the auxillary belts.if not then check timing belt runners [if fitted]But check oil -water levels first

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I have 2.0T 2004 model with 46K which has a squeaking noise on idle which appeared to come from the timing belt / tensioner. As my timing belt was due for change, I replaced it along with tensioner and aux...


I would check the Alternator, waterpump and power steering, try spraying WD40 or CRC556 on each auxillary one at a time to isolate the problem, the squeak should diminish when you hit the right bit. Don't forget to wash it off when you are finished. Good Luck

Dec 11, 2009 | Volvo S60 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2.3 how do i install the timing belt


Align harmonic damper mark at TDC with #1 piston at top. You'll have to remove harmonic damper on front of crank. (You can do it without removing the damper, but it's a real pain in the rear.) This WILL require an industrial strength impact wrench to break the bolt loose. Pull spark plugs. Makes last step easy and you can use a screwdriver to make sure #1 is at top. You'll see tick marks on the crank pulley, the cam pulley and the auxillary shaft pulley. These marks must line up. Use a straight edge (ruler, piece of flat metal stock, etc.) to make sure they're aligned. Pull tensioner arm back and lock it there. Install belt around pullies. Now comes the tricky part. Whne you release the tensioner, the auxillary shaft will rotate at least one tooth off of alignment. Release tension and compensate auxillary shaft postion. You want the marks aligned with the belt under tension. Now using a long wrench, rotate the engine clockwise by turning the crank balancer bolt. After 2 complete revolutions back to TDC, confirm timing mark alignment on the pullies. If they're off, redo it until they're aligned. Good luck.

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How to change serpentine belt, 2004 Toyota Tundra


locate tensioner pulley; release tension from belt; remove belt; make sure not to forget how the belt is routed; route belt around all pulleys but tensioner; put tension on tensioner pulley; route belt over tensioner pulley

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1988 Ford Galaxy auxillary drive belt tensioner 2.3


yes it can be removed ,i changed a timing belt with everything in situ

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