# Conventional power pack

I have a problem with a conventional power pack. I have the primary and the secondary side as a connecition diagramm and no idea how the work together or each part of it. I have to explain it for an audit :/

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A primary and secondary usually refers to a transformer. The primary side being the input side 110 AC Volt or 220 Volt AC side. Also called Source.
The Secondary being the "output to load" side 12 Volts "for example". And also called Tap (Secondary Tap)

The voltage is changed by conduction, magnetic flux, neither side touching one another. And the number of turns of wire, per side, determine the voltage. The voltage may either be a step-down or Step-up depending on its use.
An unconventional method is to have both the primary & secondary combined into a single tapped winding - which arrangement is called an autotransformer. The autotransformer does not provide isolation between primary and secondary circuits but its simplicity makes it economical and space-saving.
Imagine a single wire wrapped from the top to the bottom being the primary, and tapping in. in the middle and bottom for the secondary, so the output becomes 1/2. That would be a step-down transformer.

The actual measurement of a transformer is measured by its efficiency (Faraday Law) which is defined as a ratio of power. I hope that's sufficient, but if you want more I would buy for \$2 bucks an Electricity Made Simple Book, because there are pages after pages to write about transformers, and to understand electricity in general it is helpful to understand the difference between alternating current and direct current and its magnetic field of induction and magnitude of emf.

Posted on May 10, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: ignition cut out

i have seem people junk this cars all because they have a coming problem with the crank sensor replace the crankshaft sensor and see what happen it is very coming problem on this cars

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

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## Related Questions:

### I have a 2000 vw beetle that starts sometimes and no power to spark plugs when car turns over but wont start

You need to diagnose whether the failure is happening on the primary or secondary side of the ignition coil.
For the primary side: verify that there is battery voltage being supplied to the ignition coil all throughout the times that it wont start, or as you said "no power to the spark plugs". If you still have primary voltage supplied to the coil, then you look at the secondary. This is more complicated because of more parts involved. There is a secondary wire windings inside the coil, plus the plug wires and the plugs, and then there is the controller for the primary-to turn the primary on and off at the proper time for spark to occur. This controller is usually called the ICM (ignition control module), or "igniter" as in Japanese cars, or Power Transistor some call it, or some just have the engine computer directly control the coil primary. Finally there are engine sensors that inform the computer or ecm when to initiate spark-this is the function of the crankshaft position sensor and the cam position sensor. All these things have to work together for spark at the spark plugs. I hope this gives you a general guideline of how to diagnose your intermittent no start problem. First determine if it is a primary or secondary coil problem.

Mar 09, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

### Third coil pack in 8 months on my 2003 Ford Windstar, any suggestions on why this would keep happening?

You will need to consider whether it is the primary or secondary side of that coil that fails if possible. A primary side failure could be a failing engine control module causing excessive current to the coil causing it to burn out or internally short. If it is a secondary side failure, the issue is still high current, because the spark voltage is not delivered straight to the plug caused by leakage of the spark in the plug wire to ground, or plug gaps that are too close. Some coils are wired to fire two plugs simultaneous, one upon compression and one (probably) during exhaust in a series circuit, so check both gaps on that coil. And the other possibility is caused by not using resistance plug wires in favor of solid copper and non-resistive plugs as well, causing the secondary current to be very high.

I can't reason why any sensor would cause the coil failure. The basics for coil operation is a quick pulse of voltage to the primary causes a induction of voltage in the secondary when the voltage is removed from the primary. Usually the current in the primary is quite high to create the magnetic field for the secondary. It was the same for old point & condenser distributors as it is now for solid state controls. The problem now is that the solid state MOSFET's used in place of points can develop internal leakage or short altogether. This takes out the coil pack because of the ECM failure.

You are using Autolite plugs right? I find OEM plugs work best rather than trying things like Iridium or other performance options.

I forget which pack went out on my Freestar, but it was OEM coil pack, OEM plug sires & OEM plugs all the way!

Jan 23, 2016 | 2003 Ford Windstar

### Test coil pack

You can test the pack. Not sure what the tolerances for this particular pack are, but the Primary should read in the .3-.9 ohm range and the secondary usually usually 1.0-9.0 ohms range. If you get some resistance at all, it is likely not bad. If there is zero resistance at either primary or secondary, it is probably bad and needs replacing,

Apr 22, 2014 | 2001 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

### Why am i not recieving sparks from the coilpack?

You need battery power and timing control from the engine. They spark is created is to energize the coil and then remove the voltage, creating a large spark on the secondary side. I don't really know if this is electronic ignition or the old points and distributor system, but I would look to see that power is getting to the primary side of the coil pack.

Dec 09, 2011 | 1990 Oldsmobile Regency

### Tested power to coil - result-power to coil, checked timing belt - result O.K., checked fuel pressure - result - got that. Out of ideas. No spark to plugs, car turns over but will not ignite.

I would be looking at the ignition module in the distributor. Also check the coil pack primary and secondary resistance to see if the coil itself is good. I don't know what your resistance values should be. I work on all makes and models. I look them up as I go. If you have a book it will tell you. An autoparts store can tell you also.

Jul 04, 2011 | 1988 Toyota Cressida

### 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L code p2305 ignition coil b secondary circuit. has no spark on 2 of 6 cylinders. I have replaced the coil spark plug wires and spark plugs. found some broken wires for the...

Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.

First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)

So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.

Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.

May 08, 2011 | 2005 Dodge Caravan

### How do you tell if the coil packs are bad

With an OHM meter to check the resistance

Contributing Member

Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Montreal, QC Canada Posts: 8,805 So you got codes P0300, P0304 and P0305

You need to check primary and secondary resistences, not just primary as you did.
Primary = 0.67 - 1.05 ohms (You may have a bad multi meter if all read the same)
Secondary = 9.3k - 16k ohms Contributing Member

Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Montreal, QC Canada Posts: 8,805 So you got codes P0300, P0304 and P0305

You need to check primary and secondary resistences, not just primary as you did.
Primary = 0.67 - 1.05 ohms (You may have a bad multi meter if all read the same)
Secondary = 9.3k - 16k ohmsSo you got codes P0300, P0304 and P0305

You need to check primary and secondary resistences, not just primary as you did.
Primary = 0.67 - 1.05 ohms
Secondary = 9.3k - 16k ohms

Jun 29, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

### I have a 2004 Ford Taurus ses with a 3.0 liter v6(not the dohc model either). Today the check engine light came on. I took it to autozone to have the code run and they told me that it could be the primary...

Does the vehicle have coil on plug ignition or coilpack ? And it's not primary or secondary coil malfunctioning It's primary or secondary circuit . I'm assuming it has a coil pack because you say plug wires.
P0350 - Ignition Coil (Undetermined) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction Each ignition primary circuit is continuously monitored. The test fails when the PCM does not receive a valid IDM pulse signal from the ignition module (integrated in the PCM).
• Open or short in the Ignition START/RUN circuit.
• Open coil driver circuit.
• Coil driver circuit shorted to ground.
• Damaged coil.
• Damaged PCM.
• Coil driver circuit shorted to VPWR.
P0351 - Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction See the description for DTC P0350. See the possible causes for DTC P0350.
Pull the spark plugs out an look at them , check the gap ,if too wide replace them . If the spark plug gap gets too worn ,the spark won't jump the gap. It will find the least resistance path to ground ,and it will do it inside the coil . Going from the secondary circuit back to the primary coil an to ground through the PCM - engine computer . The PCM has transistors inside that open an close the primary side to ground ,this builds up a magnetic field around the secondary inducing high voltage spark . Well this can short out the transistor inside the PCM . Most of the time that's what these type codes mean . The PCM would need to be replaced an programmed . This can also damage the catalytic converter. Your best bet , take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop.

Jul 21, 2017 | 2004 Ford Taurus

### Engine codes P0354 P0351 engine skips low power

These codes are for a malfunctioning ignition coil/s.
P0351= ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction.
P0354= ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit malfunction.
visually check the coil packs for burn marks, damage, loose wire connectors, and the wire harness to each of the coils for damage. How long has this been happening? Has any work been done recently? Did the engine compartment recently get wet?

May 23, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Durango

### No spark from the coil packs

Check the wiring and make sure your getting 12V to the module (under the coil packs) when the ignition key is turned on. If you have 12V then ohmmeter the coils. The primary side is like .5-1.5 ohms and the secondaries are in the 7500 ohm neighborhood. If all this checks out OK the module would be the culprit.

Mar 21, 2009 | 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

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