Question about 2000 Toyota 4Runner

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2000 Toyota 4Runner Rear Brake Drag

I've been having problems with the rear brakes getting super hot on my 4Runner. I replaced the Master Cylinder and they were both still getting way too hot. I replaced both Rear Wheel Cylinders, now just the rear passenger side is getting hot. I made sure the Parking brake adjustment was in tolerence and working properly and it is still getting hot! Why is just the one getting hot after I pretty much replaced or adjusted my whole brake system?????

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  • J-Two Jun 23, 2009

    Yes, I took it in for a routine oil change and was told that my rear axel seals were leaking, the passenger side worse than the driver. Got it home jacked it up and sure enough I had Diff. Fluid all over my drum and brakes on the passenger side and just a little oil residue on the drivers side. I had planned on doing this project myself but when the $300 shop books didn't arrive i took it to a mechanic I know. After he ripped into it, he found the bearings we also bad so he replaced them and the seals and since the brake shoes were soaked in oil and cracked, he replaced them too. Could it be the bearing on the passenger side wasn't replaced right? If the bearings were bad wouldn't i still have differential fluid leaking through?

  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    After have my brake cables replaced a week ago and my wheel berrings replaced both sides, my rear drums are getting hot and binding. Machanic told me they where fine when mot was done. Any advice???

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  • Master
  • 3,600 Answers

Did you replace the wheel bearings, that is themost common problem for the toy!

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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93 honda accord the brakes lock down as soon as it gets warm


I am interpreting your description to mean that the brakes seem to work fine once or twice, but then they fail to release after only a short amount of use. If sounds right, the most common cause for this is that one or more of your disk brake calipers is sticking, failing to release even after you let off the brake pedal. Normally, only one caliper will fail at one time, meaning that the car will pull strongly to the side where the brake has locked up. You can also test this theory by driving the car until it starts to drag. Pull over and lightly touch each of the tire rims. One or more of them should be hot--possibly burning hot--to the touch from all the heat that's been generated by the stuck brake caliper. A wheel with a properly working brake will probably feel warm to the touch--but not super-hot, unless you've just completed a motorcross course or something that gave your brakes a real workout.

You can buy rebuild kits for most brake calipers, but, in all honesty, it may cost almost the same and be better in the long run to buy a factory-rebuilt caliper, trading in your old one for its core. Factory rebuilt calipers are sandblasted and carefully cleaned and painted before the new parts are installed; quite frankly, I've never done any of that when I've rebuilt my own calipers.

It's possible that you might have frozen calipers even if both brakes on an axle (i.e., both front or both back wheels) are locking up. You might have gotten moisture into both of them by driving through a deep puddle, etc.--or you might not have noticed the problem until both calipers started acting up, holding back your car even more. I don't believe that your Accord has any kind of special one-way pressure relief valves in the brake lines, outside of what's in your master cylinder.

Another cause for your braking problem might be your master cylinder. Ordinarily, master cylinder problems show up as loss of braking--your brake pedal goes to the floor or becomes very mushy. However, it's possible that a faulty master cylinder with some internal corrosion could be failing to release pressure after it's been applied. If you've excluded the brake calipers as a cause, this would be the next place I'd check.

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