Question about Jeep Wrangler
2004 wrangler. I just changed the clutch,pressure plate, now I have a vibration in my clutch peddle. Is there a way to bleed my clutch? I checked transmission fluids.... It's full! When I put it into 4X4 drive it seems worse!
Do no use 4x4 on dry pavement. or you will wind it up and make i far worst. ( no NP129/229) you have 228 xfr case.
the clutch has many parts.
did you change out the throw out (release) bearing?
and the pilot bearing?
and check the front of the transmission main pilot shaft , for wobble ?
if the front transmission bearing is bad, the clutch disc can bounce
and you release the clutch.
was it quality clutch not china no name?
ebay clutches that are dirt cheap are dirt. (junk)
exidy is ok.
bell bolts loose.
PP bolts not at spec, torque.
clutch disc in backwards, nah.
yes you can bleed the clutch. (no if still stock)
the stock slave is sealed.
after market slaves can be put on and bled.
just like all clutch slaves can be, but are tad tricky as the bubbles want to bo up. like a motor cycle or air craft.
i gravity bleed mine.
or use 2x4 to hold clutch down and let the bubbles float out. 24hrs.
FSM skips this step, cuz its sealed system.
your jeep has no center differential or read prop shaft slip clutch like one year had.
so it not full time 4wd its part time.
Posted on May 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I would first bleed the tranny lines, if that doesnt work then your tranny is out and need to get it replaced. FYI with Jeep Wranglers, It is better to get a new transmission then to rebuild them
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
There is a bleeder on the drivers side of the transmission follow the tube from the clutch master cylinder if you cannot find it. Pump the clutch up and hold it down then open the bleeder repeat till air is gone. May have to bleed again after driving a bit. If you want to bleed the clutch master cylinder run a tube from where the line goes into the cylinder and take the cap off and run the tube into the fluid (make sure its in the fluid) then pump the clutch slowly until no air bubbles. I just replaced my clutch master cylinder this is where the information comes from hope it helps you out!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
1. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Raise and support vehicle. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder screw on bleed line of slave cylinder. See Fig. 1 (attached in link) . Place other end of hose in glass container 1/2 full of brake fluid. Loosen bleeder screw while holding bleeder screw fitting.
2. Have an assistant depress clutch pedal to the floor. Tighten bleeder screw and release clutch pedal. Repeat bleeding procedure until fluid entering container is free of bubbles. DO NOT allow reservoir to run out of fluid during bleeding. Refill clutch master cylinder reservoir.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow bleed line to bend or flex when loosening
Posted on Jan 14, 2010
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