Turning the ignition switch to start does not engage the starter
The battery is charged, all electrics operate in the run position. It will start when the solenoid is jumped. I suspect a neutral safety switch as I replaced the switch on top of the column under the dash. However there is no noticeable detente for the run position. Its a 1984 Ford Econline.
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If the lights dim when the engine is trying to start, then the battery is not fully charged.
If the battery is not fully charged there is not enough speed to make the bendix on the starter slide out under centrifugal pressure and engage the ring on the flywheel.
Put the battery on a proper battery charger overnight. Also make sure the battery terminals as clean and tight, plus the negative strap to the body and the positive lead wherever it goes to.
Incidentally, the starter solenoid is not what you think it is as it doesn't 'spin'. It is an electrical relay used to take the massive amps needed to turn the motor from the battery to the starter without burning out the wiring to the ignition switch and the ignition switch itself. You mean the 'starter spins'.
3)Spark: From battery to spark plug The battery is the source of stored electrical power in the vehicle.A voltmeter between the terminals of a healthy battery should read 12.5 volts.A reading of 12.2 volts indicates a flat battery and a reading of 10.4 volts indicates a dead cell (each cell beingabout 2 volts).A battery should be capable of sustaining high current, as needed by the starter motor when turning the engine over. When the car is running the voltage measured across the terminals shouldbe between 14.2 and 14.5 volts.The value is the voltage being supplied to the battery by the output charge from the alternator. THis charging voltage should not alter much when additional load is applied to the battery (head lights on etc). When the ignition key is turned to the second position,often referred to as 'key on engine off', all car functions are powered up including lights and fuel pump.When the key is turned to position 3 many ancillary functions are temporarily interrupted to allow the battery to meet the extra needs of the starter motor. Electrical charge from the starter switch passes through a master fuse and starter relay before energizing the starter solenoid.The starter solenoid moves the pinion gear on the starter motor to engage with peripheral teeth of the flywheel.Simultaneously, heavy copper contacts are bridged by this same movement causing the starter motor coils to become energized thereby turning the engine over. During the ignition process electrical charge passes through the primary windings of the ignition coil(s).The engine control unit (ECU), taking signalsfrom the engine crank position sensor, collapses the field of the coil(s) appropriate to the cylinder requiring ignition.As the field collapses the secondary coil windings discharge very high voltage through the high tension lead to the spark plug.The charge is so high that at the spark plug gap the charge jumps across with a spark.The compressed fuel air mixture in the cylinder is ignited by this spark. Checking the spark process starts with the plugs.The condition of the removed plugs reveals a lot about the nature of the ignition within the cylinders.Dark sooty deposits indicate overly rich fuel air mix and glazed plugs indicate overly hot lean mixtures.Removing the plugs (with the fuel pump relay unplugged) and holding the screw threads to the cylinder head whilst turning the engine over will reveal the quality of spark.The spark holders and leads should be examined for discharge through the insulation to the cylinder head.Removing the leads from the coil should reveal sparks emanating from the exposed connectors.Failure to see sparks at this point indicatesa failed coil (especially if neighboring coils show good spark) or a failed crank sensor if all coils show no spark. NEXT 1.1 MAF Mass Air Flow sensor
solenoid may be sticking. Have someone start the car, if it sticks tap the solenoid with screw driver handle. If that stops the starter, replace the solenoid. If it were me, I wouldn't bother testing it and just replace solenoid.
if voltage reulator on alt. does not stop current after battery is charged it will over charge battery abd can drain cell from boiling electrolite out.check 4 bulged battery case(swelling) indication of overchaeging.the start problem could be your starter wires connection.remove starter wires clean contacts and torque respectively.dont forget the ground to motor.sounds like a loose or corroded contact somewhere.
the starter should be replaced. The solenoid is kikcing the pinion out but there is no contact being made to turn the starter motor. I have the exact same truck and before i changed the starter used the old starter tap trick. Tap the starter casing with a hammer and it should start turning again. hope this was helpful for you. Good luck.